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I decided to refurbish a set of 240Z tail lights that came off a parts car and quickly hit the problem of removing the push locks on the back of the lights. Suffice to say, the pin snapped off flush with the back on each unit as I worked on them. Once the lens was separated from the back, removing the push locks from the other pins was pretty straightforward and nothing else broke. After the cleanup was done, it was time to figure out how to re-attach the chrome strip to the lens - including the center post. I checked this site and reviewed some efforts by other members but decided to go with something of my own design. The idea of a coupling nut was my focus but I could not locate anything suitable already pre-made so it was off to Ace Hardware for some on-the-fly engineering. Here's what I came away with: two nylon spacers, 3/4" L X 3/8" OD with a #8 hole; two M5-80 X 10 screws; two flat washers. Here's the process I came up with: Thread the center post with a 5mm-80 die down to 1/4" from the base, clip the post to 3/4" long and dress the end flat: Thread the nylon spacer with a 5mm-80 tap, The #8 hole is a perfect pilot size: Cut the spacer / coupling nut down to 1/2" L and fab a thin washer. I cut a slice ( <1/16" thick) from a faucet washer. The thin washer is important because a thick one will reduce the space available for your new coupling nut: Position the chrome strip on the lens, slip on the washer. Important: plastic on plastic can bind and you could snap the post when screwing on the coupling nut. Lube the threads on the post before installing the coupling nut: The 10mm screw is just a bit long for the thread available in the coupling nut so you can either grind off a bit of the screw or add a star washer to the stack. Assemble the lens and back unit, install the M5-10 screw with the washers and you are done: This post has been promoted to an article

The internet is a powerful persuader. However, rumors have a way of becoming truth if repeated enough. I always like to check out questionable claims about any topic at snopes.com. Go there and type Beneful into the search box. Also check the Beneful web site FAQs. Having recently gotten a pound puppy a few months ago, I asked the Vet for food suggestions. Food and treats which contain corn seem to be the type to avoid. Not always easy to find as corn seems to be a cheap filler in dry dog food. Our previous dog, a beagle, lived quite nicely to 15 on whatever food we gave him and whatever he could sneak off the counter or table when we didn't push things out of his reach. Trying to be a lot more careful with the cocker pup. Dogs do make life more interesting. Dennis

1970 build date 9/70 HLS30-10558 I have owned this Z since 1985 Bought in Lancaster CA after landing a Job in aircraft after obtaining my A@P. It was my daily driver till 1989 when I bought a new SEV6 Nissan truck. I started the resto soon after removed the L24 from rebuild and replaced with L28 motor and running fear. After the L24 was finished it was reinstalled in the car and the L28 was rebuilt with high comp pistons miled cam and trip webers. The L24 was removed and the rebuilt L28 installed. Started the body work and all that needed replacing was the left rear quarter. After the body was streight I installed a MSA body kit then the car was primered with many coats of K200 and one round of top coat white. By now with job changes and life I moved back to CT in 1995 and the car was in tow. Fast forward to 2015 it was time to pull her out of storage and get her back on the road. I refreshed the break and clutch systems changed the fluids cleaned the carbs and she is a runner once again. As i do not have a garage my plan in the spring is a full resto.. As bought..

Thanks for the tip o' the hat. Appreciate it.

As a fellow dog owner, my heart goes out to you. For a reliable source of top quality dog food please Google: Corey Nutrition Company Hope this will be of value, George

Do me a favor. Kick your friend right square in the nuts when you see him.

Thanks, HS30-H. While I'm at it, anyone know if the F5C71A-5 in the Euro cars is the same as the later US 280Zs with the optional 5-speed? I ask in order to order the right rebuild parts (synchros, etc.) Also, I assume the clutch and flywheel are tranny-agnostic. Here's a photo of the car; picked it up Saturday with my (excited) boys. They will be helping with the work, learning about tools, mechanicals and investing time and energy into a project. A bonding thing, too.

Painting vs bodywork? IMO, painting is like drag racing. You get one shot to get it right. Bodywork is like road racing. If you don't get it right the first time, you can work on it until it is right.

Incredible amount and depth of knowledge from the across the pond! People like you make this forum an invaluable tool for all of us trying to keep these great vehicles on the road in proper form. Thank you.

Total agreement. Painting is so hard that even the very best pros rarely (if ever) get it absolutely perfect. But no amount of talent will make a paint job look great if the body prep isn't up to par.

Confirm no dash top 'VIN' plate on European market cars. It was purely a north American market requirement.

Das Boat..

I'm 2nd owner of hls30-10610. I think yours is the closest VIN to mine I've seen yet. To think, they could have been on the same boat with each other.

Keep us posted on progress. I'm within a few months of owning my Z for 45 years and, like your's, it's a work in progress. Stick with It! Dennis