Leaderboard

I am next to installing an AC system on my 240z. I have noticed that on the right hand of the engine there seems to be 4 holes to install a bracket to mount a compressor. Where can i purchase this compressor mounting bracket? Will the ones from a 280zx fit? or should i manufacture one? I saw one on ebay from a 79-83 ZX. Anyone?

Beware of the fuel depth. Keith says to set it at same level for all applications.. this resulted in a rich cruise for me that I could not jet-out. The fuel level was just too high and the passage to the aux venturi slurped it up when it should not have.... a lower fuel level would have prevented this. Since the fuel consumed at cruise was much less than at "full song" the fuel in the well stayed at the same height and was sucked up slower than the main jet regulated. The only good thing in that white paper is the advice of disabling circuits when doing basic tuning... you have 5 circuits with a typical set up: 1. Idle 2. Cruise 3. Main 4. Choke 5. Acceleration You can disable the mains by removing the jets. You can disable the acceleration by replacing the bleed-backs with bolts You can disable the choke at the lever There is a lot of excellent info on this forum that I think exceeds Keith's with respect to its usefulness. I can send you something *very* useful if you want. I can't recall if I have your email... send me a PM and I'll blast it off. Here are some useful docs: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44405-dcoe-documents/ For tuning your carbs, iteratively get the cruise where you want it by disabling the mains and accelerator circuits. You can adjust fuel level and swap idle jets to get it right. After you get the cruise, set the idle then install the mains and get the 3500 to 6500rpm WOT where you want. Typically ~ 12.5 to 13.5. After all of this is good, stick an O2 on the manifold to capture transients (they get subdued at the tail pipe) and install the accelerator circuit and get the gas-stomp transients right.

I disassembled my 1st cylinder head and enjoyed the process. It's very OCD friendly, steps done in order and detailed for reassembly. P79 off a ZX motor I bought for $200. I need the cam for a regrinding. Cheap, $15, spring compressor worked good after I pulled the cam towers off.

I remember the same gasket between the spray bar and cam towers on my 1971 . It was definately factory. However, if my aged memory serves me correct that gasket was not available separetley. It only came with a new Spary Bar. Had to install a new one on my 71 240z and I remember that the new Spary Bar came with the gaskets already glued on.

Hmm, this quote makes me a bit skeptical... NEVER SEEN RAIN NOR WASHED WITH WATER!

Looks interesting but the guy seems like a shyster. He contradicts himself. Looks like a car dealer to me. Just because you're not licensed doesn't mean you're not. I SPECIALIZE IN "NERVOUS" INTERNET BUYERS!! Call Dennis - Marketing Guy THIS IS NOT AN AUTO DEALER AD

well that is certainly true, but I have never liked buying junk. I would do without and save my money if I wanted something better, rather than settle for less quality. Now I take things to an illogical extreme. I would disagree to some degree. I still think the old saying, "you get what you pay for" is still MOSTLY true. You are not garanteed quality by paying more, but the likelihood is far greater you will get quality when you pay more than if you do not. It all comes down to what is good, and what is good enough. That varies for every person.

I think that as you get older - you are ABLE to pay for higher quality and better service. With the disclaimer - - There is no longer the more or less direct correlation between Price and Quality, that there used to be several decades ago. Quality is defined by the Customer.