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I am going to change the door seals that I did use years ago that are made by precision to the s30 world door seals that I already ordered. it will let my doors close tighter as the precision makes them stick out a little. it can only help when the windows are closed anyway, but with the wife anything will help. she does not understand it is a 51–52-year-old car with no catallactic converter.

my z is an early 260z, and I did check the main weather strip using a dollar bill that will not slide at all around the hatch. I did change the taillight gaskets but is did very little to help. I could not understand why Nissan did use that seal for water management as the water will only run down the back anyway. maybe is it designed to keep less water out?

It's there strictly for water management (by design, it can't contribute to sealing off exhaust gases from the cabin because covers only the top and sides of the hatch opening, while remaining completely open to the outside at the bottom). If your Z is a later-model 240 (where there are no vents on the lower hatch surface), the most likely culprit will be your main weatherstripping ("the large weatherstrip that's been installed years ago"). It may have lost some of its original shape after years of living 99% of its life in a crushed state while the hatch is closed. IIRC, some owners also found that the gasket around their taillights housings had deteriorated, allowing exhaust gases to enter the cabin through the rear panel. If your Z is an earlier-model 240 (vents on the lower hatch surface), that's a whole different (and more challenging) ballgame. There are several threads on the CZCC site that discuss problems (several) and remedies for this design.

Here's another from CZCC. I seem to enjoy this topic.

This post from the past on Hybridz is informative. Says that the wire is not connected in the cabin. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/83355-wiring-in-electric-fuel-pump/?do=findComment&comment=789840

Edit - and congratulations. Looks like a solid car. This is 1972. It shows an inline fuse. Not sure where it is though. But the diagram shows it by the fuse panel.

Thanks for information!

I'm a new owner, recent purchase of this car: Bring-A-Trailer Auction 71 240Z I've gotten the rust fixed and am trying to get it to a reliable, driving car. Lots of things were wrong that weren't mentioned in the action. Like a leaky fuel tank and bad brake booster. New booster and master cylinder has gone in this holiday and also installed a Nismo fuel pump at the rear to get rid of the electric pump that was mounted to the block and wired to the ballast for power. I wired up the Nismo and no joy. I pulled the connections and put a volt meter to the black and green wires at the harness and I'm getting nothing. I've got extensive experience with working on cars, worked as a race mechanic during the 90's on Formula cars, and some GTs. Have owned two other 240Z (a 73 and 70) and have owned a 91 Toyota MR2 since 99 and done almost everything on. BUT, I know very little about wiring. So this is going to be a big learning experience, please help me out. Where should I start? I've looked a the fuse box and there doesn't seem to be any thing there for the rear pump. When I pulled the electrical tape to free the two wires for the pump a lot of dust came out of the female connector and I gave it a good squirt of electrical cleaner and let it dry overnight. But as I'm not getting power I don't thing that's the issue. I have a temp mounting bracket for the pump. Please see the pick and thank you in advance.

That's the fuel damper. It absorbs pressure pulses, from one end or the other. Not much to it and they seem to survive without problems. Don't forget that pressure after the pump is at least 36.3 psi. Those small plastic filters aren't rated for that. I made a loop in my fuel line after the pump to solve that sharp bend problem.

worked on the fuel system and a couple other little things today. The phillips screw stripped out so I had to drill the heads. Once I had the pump removed I had plenty of thread left over to pull them out with vice grips. I feel like this is the original pump since it had the goop on the terminals, however, I'm not sure why the wires were cut and just twisted together. Maybe an old replacement pump came this way. I'm having trouble identifying this part. I'm dont think its a fuel pressure regulator. I know there is one on top of the engine. The new pump doesnt have the outlet on the side, but it does come with a brake line style fitting.. Overall it just ends up longer. It will still fit in the bracket but I think I will look for a one piece elbow when I go to the hardware store for new screws. The part number on the box is E16078, it appears to be an O'reillys part and it appears to be correct for the vehicle. Rock auto also shows a carter pump that is identical. Has anyone put one of those cheap clear fuel filters after the fuel pump? I'd like to have one up in the engine as a prefilter for the OEM filter. I dont have a good way to clean out the hard lines and I would like to see if there is any crude in there I need to worry about.

My new neighbors are smoking turkey legs today. I'm about to go introduce myself.

Sounds good, I'll give it a shot. Should I replace the cup washer on the other side with this to keep it symmetrical or does it not matter?

The aftermarket hardware kit at O'Reilly's has 8 of those retainer washers rather than 4 retainers and 4 cup washers. One on each side of the spring to keep it centered and in place - would work.

Nope, I'm talking about #19 - sorry about that. I'll update the link now.

Are you talking about #21? You could probably find those in the Dorman section at a local parts store.

When I pulled the brake-drum cover off with the puller, the shoe retaining clip's cup-washer flew off (the one that sits between the spring and shoe) and is nowhere to be found. Can I use any washer that fits, or does it have to have those cup-like ends? This is the part I'm referencing: Courtesy Nissan Car Part Manual The part I think it's referencing

Happy Thanksgiving!!! Fire up those ovens... I'm smoking some turkey this year... ;)

I'm fortunate that I have multiple daily drivers, rather than just one. In summer time the 240Z is my daily, along with a R53 Mini Cooper S, a 1999 Mazda Miata Sport, an Aston Martin V8 Vantage and a Toyota GR86. For load hauling and snow runs the Subaru legacy wagon gets the nod. Between my wife, my son and myself we need at least 3 dailies!

Happy Thanksgiving to the Z family!!! I am grateful for this group!

I’m interested in your used tank. I’m in San Jose California. I remember 30 years ago the fuel tank in my 1956 GMC truck I had resealed, but I’m not sure that those kind of shops are even still around because of the chemicals in the EPA restrictions. My Z is 54 years old and from what I could tell, which, of course is limited with the Bore scope, it’s very rusted

So I emailed with Chris at S 30.world. He has a tank for me but it’s 695+ $160 shipping plus $435 tariff. he also told me that sometime in January, they will be establishing a warehouse in Los Angeles. That way we save the tariff and the freight from the Netherlands.

When I was a teenager, I would sometimes plow the lot at the dealership with a Land Cruiser my dad had fitted with a plow. It was plush for those days. Honestly though, I’ve been driving older Porsches for so long I didn’t realize how amazing they had become. I know I’ll write big checks when it breaks, and I feel like between the Lexus and the Macan, the Macan is more likely to break. The Lexus is more luxurious. Not by a lot but I’ll admit it is. It is less complicated but it doesn’t have the power that twin turbo puts out. At lunch yesterday, it happened that a student of mine heard me drive out of the parking lot. After lunch she told me my car “sounded so cool.” Love that Land Cruiser Mike!