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I wonder what this means -

It's unfortunate so many cool looking concept cars don't get built or the coolness gets lost in the transition to production line

5 days, that's pretty good

It wasn't meant to be a link, just an abbreviation. Something in the browser or forum software does that automatically, I think. ithink.com link.com thislinkwontwork.com

I still believe there is an issue with vapor lock as i turned the ac on and the temp started getting to 3/4 of the gauge.

He retuned the carbs, installed a msd coil and advanced the timing. Guy is 70 years old and works on 8 cyl camaros.

This (F 026 T00 064) was the one I ordered, I got impulsive and this was the first part number I came across from this post here from @SteveJ . I couldnt find any other posts on here with the other part number at the time. The 0 332 514 121 relay has extra pins, this is because the extra pins are for the california vehicles, at least according to Jbugs. I suspect that using that relay is just fine since the car doesnt need those pins. This is the description for bosch relay 0332 514 121 accordinng to Jbugs BTW @Zed Head That CZCC link doesnt work

That's what we did with boats, river racing. Put spray paint marks on the inside of the highway guardrails along the river. 13 hundred and 20 feet, run what you brung was like a Bible verse I'll never forget.

The car in the video reminded me of the old Can-Am days.☺️ It was run what ya brung with few rules.

Rob @ ZCarGarage in San Jose.

I'm ready to buy some Panasport wheels for my '72. 16 x 7 with 0 offset, or perhaps +4. Plan on running 205/55 x 16 tires. Car is totally stock. Any idea's on a preferred dealer? Thanks,

When I searched ebay for the iBooster, I actually looked more at the Hondas because I don't think they have the booster mounted at an angle like the Tesla. I'm still not sure about what reservoir would be best to use in this application.

An ammeter can fail, but that would also cause the car not to run. Bad wires at the ammeter would also cause the car not to run.

The ammeter doesn't really have good resolution, especially the ones that range from -60 to +60. Also I have no idea whether or not the one on @70z4fun's car has been zeroed out properly. Also consider the first test in the FSM for the alternator is to check the voltage. Why not make it easy and use a digital meter in the car? Also, one other thing I just remembered. Sometimes people add additional electrical loads to a Z and connect on the battery side of the ammeter. That could give a false indication of a failing alternator.

EFI/pump relay. Which one did you order? You didn't say. Don't overlook that the pump relay is controlled by the switch in the AFM. And that there is no "prime" like on today's vehicles. The pump relay is energized by the AFM switch or when the key is at Start.

Good point, I may not of noticed the Ammeter reading negative while driving ( operator error ) but as I recall, it was not in the positive area after I jumped started it. I did replace my cigarette lighter many moons ago with a USB charger that had a green hue to it. I think I might replace it with something like this, since I can charge things and see what the battery voltage is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRRK7ZZ?smid=A177NFKYPJ1LIQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1 I use a similar thing in a boat, nice to see a digital voltage reading. I am correct in thinking that if the wires were bad at the ammeter, the car would not run? I have not seen issues with that gauge in the past, but do they fail?

There's a driving video now. Speeding up and down an airstrip. Lots of woohoo comments. It's an interesting endeavor. Pretty dangerous for an unskilled driver. I wonder what the weight distribution is. Sitting at $30,000. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/#comments-anchor

Sold 12/11/25

Lots of effort, time and money invested to create a 1971 Corvette LS6 convertible tribute clad in Japanese sheet metal and copious amounts of fiberglass . To each their own.

Not trying to be snarky, but isn't that what the ammeter is for? Seems like the cause of the problem was a bad connection that got fixed while disconnecting and reconnecting connections. I almost replaced a starter once because of that, and diagnosed a T connector problem at my alternator after I learned that lesson. Examination and adjustment with a pair of pliers (give the female side a squeeze if it's loose) is probably worthwhile on everybody's vehicle.

So, having solved the problem of a bridge between the Bosch DBW throttle body and the native 280Z intake, I need to make gaskets for the bridge. I tried successfully to hand cut gaskets with an exacto knife and a cutting mat using gasket material. It would work, but it isn’t as pretty as the project deserves. So I bought a new in box Cricut Maker 3. This willl cut leather, so gasket material is cake. I need to draw it up and convert it to an SVG file but I will post picks of finished gaskets.

Pet peeve though, it isn’t a Tesla brake booster. While Tesla does develop some of their tech. Most of it, they buy. Honda used this tech 2 years before Tesla. My wife’s Lexus has self driving tech as well. I didn’t know it was there, and it freaked me out for a second when I first drove her SUV. I put it in cruise control on the highway with a destination input in maps. I felt it pull a bit as I approached a curve and looked for a TPMS warning. All good. Then, I realized it was driving me! You have to put your hands on the steering wheel once every 30 seconds or so. Something I believe Musk is living dangerously with. So, I think I will do this on my car since I don’t need a redundant input from the brake pedal.

Nice find @SteveJ.

Concept car…

You could buy a cigarette lighter USB adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9DLDN19 It has a built in voltmeter. If you see it dropping below 13VDC while driving, you have a good clue that the alternator isn't putting out current or your battery is going bad.