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Replacing All Large Opening Seals & Hatch Small Seals


HusseinHolland

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1 minute ago, Yarb said:

Aren’t they the seals that adhere to the top of the frame itself?

 

I have no idea. I've not seen a car that has them, so I can't visualize it. I can't say I've seen a channel groove in my door glass frame that these would attach to, which is how they are described in ZcarDepot's listing for them.

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3 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

Question for those with more experience on these - I ordered what I thought were the door glass channel seals  (6 & 7 in the catalog) - 

80810-N4500

80811-N4500

but.... those are not glass seals, & I can't figure out where they actually go. Are they supposed to attach to the outside of the door frame? I don't think there is a ridge in mine that these would fit into.

Screenshot 2023-06-27 at 9.09.29 PM.png

 

The actual channel seals seem to be in 2 parts (7 & 8), but I didn't see 2 parts in the listings I've found -  80335-N4520 is what I have ordered, looks like I also need to find 80336-N4600, not having much luck with that

Screenshot 2023-06-27 at 9.15.01 PM.png

I believe the later 280Z door window frames had a channel that those fit into. It was supposed to address wind noise, and better seal the cabin from water intrusion.

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One question I should have asked.  HH do you notice the hatch riding a little high with bulb all around the outer hatch?  I do notice mine is slightly off (maybe 1/8 measured at the bottom side) and I am not sure if the hatch was just misaligned by the PO or adding bulb down the sides is keeping it up.  If I press down on the hatch there is a little room to make it sit flatter but I just don't recall noticing before i took the seals off.  I did not remove the hatch to replace my seals.  Maybe it being new just needs to flatten a bit under the weight of the hatch.  Maybe that's why the factory didn't use bulb all the way.  Either way I'm happy and can live with a little bit off if it makes a better air tight seal.

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On 7/1/2023 at 11:58 AM, Richie G said:

One question I should have asked.  HH do you notice the hatch riding a little high with bulb all around the outer hatch?  I do notice mine is slightly off (maybe 1/8 measured at the bottom side) and I am not sure if the hatch was just misaligned by the PO or adding bulb down the sides is keeping it up.  If I press down on the hatch there is a little room to make it sit flatter but I just don't recall noticing before i took the seals off.  I did not remove the hatch to replace my seals.  Maybe it being new just needs to flatten a bit under the weight of the hatch.  Maybe that's why the factory didn't use bulb all the way.  Either way I'm happy and can live with a little bit off if it makes a better air tight seal.

I had to readjust the latch, but I assumed that was purely due to the extra seal material previously missing. Still have to slam it pretty hard. The doors were the same initially, until the seals compressed somewhat.

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3 hours ago, HusseinHolland said:

I had to readjust the latch, but I assumed that was purely due to the extra seal material previously missing. Still have to slam it pretty hard. The doors were the same initially, until the seals compressed somewhat.

I'm lucky enough that it will close on its own. i can just drop it from mid height and it latches really well.  It just isn't perfectly flush.  I'm hoping it compresses will keep an eye on it.  I was even luckier in that I didn't have to pull the hatch itself.  My old hinge rubbers were intact and painted over but seemed still ok, plus it was only me and no way I was chancing it alone.  Nothing in the roof that would indicate previous compromise so felt ok leaving them for now.  I do have a replacement pair in case I ever need them.  These were reasonable and very well made.  With exchange rate tax ands shipping was like $112 US in case anyone needs a new pair.  You'll have to keep your old compression plate and shims rubber only.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384879465523

image.png

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6 hours ago, Richie G said:

I'm lucky enough that it will close on its own. i can just drop it from mid height and it latches really well.  It just isn't perfectly flush.  I'm hoping it compresses will keep an eye on it.  I was even luckier in that I didn't have to pull the hatch itself.  My old hinge rubbers were intact and painted over but seemed still ok, plus it was only me and no way I was chancing it alone.  Nothing in the roof that would indicate previous compromise so felt ok leaving them for now.  I do have a replacement pair in case I ever need them.  These were reasonable and very well made.  With exchange rate tax ands shipping was like $112 US in case anyone needs a new pair.  You'll have to keep your old compression plate and shims rubber only.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384879465523

I had pulled the hatch to do the main seals & repair the faded paintwork in the upper trough. My hinges were loosely mounted, so they had pressed into the hinge seals at one spot on each side. I bought new seals from a (eBay) vendor in Thailand. They were not cheap, however less than you paid. I never test fitted them as they came after I had already put everything back, so I don't know if there is a fitment issue with them. I can't see water getting in there with good hatch seals, unless you open the hatch covered in rain & then it will dump into the car anyway.

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  • 5 weeks later...

After I got the nice new seals done, I realized I really couldn't stand looking at the 47 year old side emblems - so I got the 2 sides & the hood emblems from Resurrected Classics - by way of the Etsy site, the shipping was less that way for some reason

The fit & finish is spectacular

 

PXL_20230712_195320083.jpg

PXL_20230712_195313613.jpg

PXL_20230712_195307955.jpg

 

 

 

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