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air cleaner housing connections


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Posted (edited)

On of the items missing entirely when i got my car was the air filter housing and parts.

I was able to buy the housing unit in image below but dont have any other items. I read another post 

that had the microfiche image and parts. do i really need all those. seems like a lot. 

Does anyone have an image of how the base itself connnects to the carbs? Any images, links or info would be appreciated. Have no 

idea where to get these parts......trying local nissan but its doesnt look good. 

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Edited by Wally
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thanks. went to ace hardware and cobbled together some M8 bolts to secure things. I will figure out something for the seals. 

i am having a room issue. I barely got the air filter in around the bolts and i cant get the cover on. I did add some headers...

would that move things over this much? anybody else had this issue?

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Posted (edited)

If I remember correctly you have to put the filter in to the cover with the winged screws and install them together. 

Edited by CanTechZ
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Maybe i did this wrong but here's what i did. I put bolts in that you can see. I left just enough room so they would come out the front of the air housing so i could put a wing nut on and tighten down. 

To get the housing on w/o the filter i have to twist and turn it at an angle. if the filter is in i cant twist it to get it over the bolt. this is a mess....LOL

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As CanTechZ mentioned above, you need to put the air cleaner into the cover section before you slide the cover into place. The trick is that the M8 bolts that clamp everything together are "long wing bolts", not wingnuts onto a threaded shaft. That way, the bolts are not in the way when you slip the cover into place... They are kinda half hanging out of the cover portion.

Slip the cover/air cleaner combination into place, and then twist the long wing bolts to hold tight.

I thought someone fabricated their own version of those wing bolts? @zKars maybe? Seems like the crafty kind of thing he would do.  :geek:

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39 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

As CanTechZ mentioned above, you need to put the air cleaner into the cover section before you slide the cover into place. The trick is that the M8 bolts that clamp everything together are "long wing bolts", not wingnuts onto a threaded shaft. That way, the bolts are not in the way when you slip the cover into place... They are kinda half hanging out of the cover portion.

Slip the cover/air cleaner combination into place, and then twist the long wing bolts to hold tight.

I thought someone fabricated their own version of those wing bolts? @zKars maybe? Seems like the crafty kind of thing he would do.  :geek:

You are correct. That's not unusual.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63655-source-for-the-cup-washers-on-the-su-air-cleaner-wing-bolts/?&page=2#comments

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I am indeed working on a replacement set of air cleaner hardware. It is not a perfect replica, but is 100% strong and functional as the original. The parts that show (wing nut and cup washer) as close enough to “correct” that most won’t notice without detailed inspection.

I have a couple of sets made up if anyone would like to acquire one, let me know

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thanks all. great info. i went to ACE Hardware and bought a pile of stuff. i am 50-50 i can make this work based on images in thread.

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I would try loctite red to glue wingnuts to the ends of two of the threaded rods. Makes quick and dirty "long length wing-bolts". Since they are just hand tightened, loctite red might be strong enough. If not something else like solder, braze, or weld if the loctite won't hold. Been a while since I looked at them in detail. but I think the originals are brazed.

And for the receiving end, do what you had before... Stud threaded into the carbs and coupler on the other end to accept the newly created wing-bolts.

Flat and rubber washers under the wingnuts. Cup washers optional.

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thanks. i tried red loctite yesterday. not sure how long they need to set up. its been about 18 hours. i tried them gently and so far they work...not sure how they will handle any stress yet

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The threadlock stuff is probably something like "90% strength after 24 hours, but could take up to a week to reach full strength". That's the typical ambiguous CYA cure statements they usually use.  LOL

I think the CA based stuff requires steel ions and either moisture or lack of air to activate or something like that. There's a chance that the zinc plating on the hardware could slow it down some. In any event, I would be willing to give it a twist after it sat for 24 hours and see what happens.

I also know that tight fitting threads would hold better. Some of the hardware store stuff is so sloppy that you're asking the threadlock to fill too large of a gap.

Here's hoping you're good!

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Bolt set came in. I have an image for reference of all of it. i have also in the image for comparison an original 240z rabbit ear type bolt. You can see they are 

almost identical except the new ones look better. Also i put in a datsun roadster cleaner bolt which i know some have used. While it does work you can see its a little 

longer so the new ones work better.

 

On a side note..... i cant get my air filter and front cover on. There isn't enough room....it hits the bleeder valve i am pointing to on the brake cylinder...of course the new set

has nothing to do with this but anyone got an ideas why this is happening?  I do have 2 sets of gaskets on the back side of the air housing meeting up with the carbs....

if i remove them i can get the cover on but by a millimeter

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Managed to get the cover on and bolted up. I had to take out that one bleed valve to do it though. Something definitely wrong

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Posted (edited)

The filter and cover do not just slide straight down and over the backing place.  You have to put the filter in the cover then carefully work it on at an angle...lean the top towards the passenger side to get it past the airhorns then straighten it out and secure using the long wing bolts.  It is already a very tight fit so your second gasket may be just a tad bit too much depending upon how thick they are.

 

Edit:  Removal is the reverse of the above in case anyone else reading this asks.  🙂

Edited by texasz
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Posted (edited)
On 8/22/2021 at 12:13 PM, DantePalazzo said:

zKars - they look great!  How much for a set?

Still working out a price, and very tight time wise to make any for awhile with the on-going restorations here.

Thinking about $40-$50 per set. I have to make them, then take them to the plater to get the areas that are machined re-coated. The raw parts come from the US, so I get exchange shipping and brokerage fees slapped on, many steps to create, couple of week turn around from the plater. I’ll try to add them to other plater parts to keep the cost of that incremental, but that adds turn around time. 

Like all custom parts, that seems like a boat load of $$ for a couple of bolts, but that’s the reality. 

Edited by zKars
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11 hours ago, texasz said:

The filter and cover do not just slide straight down and over the backing place.  You have to put the filter in the cover then carefully work it on at an angle...lean the top towards the passenger side to get it past the airhorns then straighten it out and secure using the long wing bolts.  It is already a very tight fit so your second gasket may be just a tad bit too much depending upon how thick they are.

 

Edit:  Removal is the reverse of the above in case anyone else reading this asks.  🙂

Thanks. yeah, i tried it like that. i tried it every which way but loose....just a hairs width stops it. I dont want to have to remove the gaskets to make it fit. I shouldnt need to.

I am thinking about trying to find a bleed valve that is shorter.....maybe that would work

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Any chance you have a motor mount problem?  

I like to browse around the BAT site to compare to other cars.  They take a lot of pictures.  I took a few looks and it does seem like they have more room than you do.  Here's a 71.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-187/

https://bringatrailer.com/datsun/240z/?q=240z

image.png

 

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My 7/70 looks to have similar clearance to the shock tower as yours but my Brake M/C has the bleeders on the opposite side. Here are a couple of captures from a video I did of my car before I took it apart for the resto I currently working on.

Video Capture 01.JPG

Video Capture 02.JPG

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Bad bleeders bud.  Bummer. 

New MC maybe?  Yours seems oddly shaped.  Where did it come from?  Looks it might even have ports, or the bosses for ports, on the other side.  Are they drilled and tapped?  Maybe just swap them.

image.png

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