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240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena


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That's really unfortunate!

Look on my build thread. I took this apart over the last couple of years...

Some of that metal is pretty stout!

It almost looks like poorly repaired crash damage with holes that allowed rust formation.

I dont know who offers the best rear valance these days. A good donor would be my first choice. Especially if you can get the whole panel. Its one piece from the bottom, up around the lights to under the hatch slam panel.

A 100 or so spot welds 😉

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1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

After completing the front section I moved straight on building the rear mounts. As I was working out what sized tubing to use for the direct mount, I noticed the rear bumper mounts were not flat. There was a few small rust bubbles around the mounts and along the rear valance. So I though I would begin a investigatory expedition into their origin. 

UH OH😬

well it didn’t come out as polite as that... my exclamation rhymed with DUCK, except with PH on the front.... the bog (you call it filler) monster had reared its ugly head...

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not knowing if this was from accident damage, which I didn’t think it was, as behind the valance looked undamaged. Or if it was bad rust repairs I decided to press on with my expedition 

BIG UH OH! Again not the phrase I used...

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At this point, the suspense to find out just how PH$#*€D my rear valance is was killing me. So I kept going....

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At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired. The massive holes I feel would affect the structural integrity of the rear end. Plus I’ve kind of been dying to sink my teeth into some rust repairs. 

Ryan 

 

Certainly have some work ahead Ryan.

Soon you can nickname the car Patches.

You'll learn a lot, have an awesome and intimate experience with the car, your wife will become jealous of it, your offspring will wonder who that strange man is that comes around once in a while.

 

It'll be fine.

Cheers mate!

:beer:

 

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52 minutes ago, Patcon said:

That's really unfortunate!

Look on my build thread. I took this apart over the last couple of years...

Some of that metal is pretty stout!

It almost looks like poorly repaired crash damage with holes that allowed rust formation.

I dont know who offers the best rear valance these days. A good donor would be my first choice. Especially if you can get the whole panel. Its one piece from the bottom, up around the lights to under the hatch slam panel.

A 100 or so spot welds 😉

The best valance comes out of the Uk from auto panel solutions

I purchased one from him a while back, not cheap but a high quality product, until KF finally come out with one I think APS is the best on market

 

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10 minutes ago, Racer X said:

Certainly have some work ahead Ryan.

Soon you can nickname the car Patches.

You'll learn a lot, have an awesome and intimate experience with the car, your wife will become jealous of it, your offspring will wonder who that strange man is that comes around once in a while.

 

It'll be fine.

Cheers mate!

:beer:

 

Hahahaha I showed my wife this message and she had a good giggle lol 

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7 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

The best valance comes out of the Uk from auto panel solutions

Out of curiosity, why did you buy the (rear?) valence panel before you discovered the damage?

Also:  Assuming that you really were referring to the rear valence, what does APS' panel consist of? (I'm assuming that it's just the usual piece that extends up only to bumper height).

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1 hour ago, Namerow said:

Out of curiosity, why did you buy the (rear?) valence panel before you discovered the damage?

Also:  Assuming that you really were referring to the rear valence, what does APS' panel consist of? (I'm assuming that it's just the usual piece that extends up only to bumper height).

There were rust bubbles all along the rear valance and they had bogged over the indent that the stock valance has, so I figured it would need replacing, thought I could sell if not needed. 

yes correct, APS one is only the lower section, but it’s better than others due to it having the stock compound curve and a more accurate exhaust hole shape.

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That's an excellent piece of work.  The shape of the OE lower rear valence is interesting.  It's not uniform and when I first looked at the one on my 70 Z, I thought it had been tweaked from collision damage.

The proprietor of APS is a gifted metal shaper.  His inventory of offerings seems guided as much by the challenge of creating a new piece vs. the marketabilty of that piece once done.  Apparently he compensates in his pricing (which is probably quite fair).  Perhaps you should ask him if he's interested in recreating the entire rear panel.

BTW, APS is based in the east Yorkshire market town of Thirsk -- the centre of the world of the well-known BBC TV series, 'All Creatures Great and Small', and its lead character, animal veterinarian 'James Herriott' (real name, James Alf Wight).  It's a beautiful area and well worth a visit if you're in England.  I passed through a couple of years ago as part of a combined Goodwood Revival/Yorkshire Dales vacation.

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The James Harriet books are a great read

Does APS have a website? I found the facebook page but it's hard to tell what they all they really make...

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10 hours ago, Patcon said:

Does APS have a website?

No proper website, just his Facebook then you have to contact via email. He’s good at answering emails though. Easy to deal with. 
Apparently he does a excellent reproduction radiator support panel, expensive though due to the number of pieces and work. 

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10 hours ago, Patcon said:

The James Harriet books are a great read

For a slightly different take on farming in England, watch the 2020 Amazon Prime series, 'Clarkson's Farm', hosted by the former Top Gear host, Jeremy Clarkson.  Really funny.

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I despise conducting business over Facebook!!

I refuse to join Faceplant.

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5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Ms. Racer #1 might hit you up on "faceplant"?

LOL I get a lot of holiday booty off faceplant.

 

If I ever cross paths with Mrs. Racer 1.0 again it will be too soon.

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On 7/1/2021 at 8:08 PM, Namerow said:

For a slightly different take on farming in England, watch the 2020 Amazon Prime series, 'Clarkson's Farm', hosted by the former Top Gear host, Jeremy Clarkson.  Really funny.

 

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Clarkson: Farming??  How hard can it be?

Hammond: DON'T say that !!  🤣

 

hahaha, at 12-15 years old i got my own vegetable garden, Also drove a tractor with more than one 4 wheeled cart and plowed strait lines and used a subsoiler and also a disk harrow, cultivator and cutter bar.. so i know how difficult it is to be a farmer..

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  • 2 weeks later...

Managed to remove the rear valance panel! Great Success!  

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Used a combination of methods. These are the first spot welds I’ve ever removed so wanted to try them all. Used the rotabroach cutter style, the specialty drill bit type and the finger file sander. 

This is what my experience was with each:

Rota broach/cutter type

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I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces. But if your panel is flat and they are factory spot welds these do ok. You must use a center punch 

the specialty drill bit type 

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this worked really well and I preferred them to the cutter style. Cut quickly and don’t mind uneven surfaces, don’t walk on you either. best on factory spot welds, they didn’t do well on the plug welds due to the small diameter. Must use a center punch too

the finger file sander

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Bought this specific one from bunnings 60$, wanted a cheap one to try out to see if it would be worth the money buying a more expensive air one once I get my compressor. And it is great for grinding out spot welds! Catch is it will leave massive square holes in the top panel, but if you’re not reusing the top panel this is a great option. It’s very quick, I was using 40grit, easy to see when you have ground enough of the spot weld away, leaves the bottom panel in perfect condition. This one did the job but lacked a bit of power, occasionally stopped turning if you put too much pressure on but made up for it with its light weight. 

Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. 

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As expected it’s rather rusty in the box section behind, some rust has made it all the way through. 

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comparison of stock valance vs Auto panel solutions repair panel. High quality product.

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RHS looks like it has a minor nudge. Some rudimentary measurements show it’s out by 3-4mm. Not too bad. I’m thinking a big hammer can’t fix

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First mock up of the panel. Need to buy more vice grips for convincing it into position.

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next up I plan to:

- convince the panel into position then test fit the automobile rear bumper to make sure there are no dramas there

- mark and cut top edge where new panel will end up 

- clean up the box section, carry out repairs on the rust holes 

- kbs rust blast then kbs rust seal the internal box section

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3 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

 

Had to remove the clips that hold the.... I’ve had a mental blank.... rear dress up panels that go around the tail lights. As I will be using the whole of the repair panel which will require a cut along the top edge where those clips sit. 

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I call it the taillight finisher.

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That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long.

I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though...

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5 hours ago, Patcon said:

That sub frame piece is supposed to be pretty thick. i'm not sure it will move the way you want with a large hammer. I had to use frame clamps and a come-a-long.

I like a 1/4" grinding bur in a die grinder for spot welds. Fast and easy and the top panel can be reused if need be. It does make a lot of metal splinters though...

I need to have another look and do more measurements but you’re probably right re the hammer. The rear sub frame looks in good shape though, have to try and work out where the 3-4mm went.

you know I’ve always thought that a die grinder would work well but I’ve never seen anyone use them online. It’s on my list of tools to buy and methods to try


 

 

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9 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

I used this specific set so not the el cheapo type off eBay. I found these difficult to use, they don’t work well on plug welds which I had a few of. they like to walk on uneven surfaces.

The trick to that kit is to pre drill the spot weld with a 1/8" drill then the cutter stays on track.

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I have a drawer full of die grinders,  maybe 6 or 7. Cut off wheel, 2" roloks, 1" rolok, 3 or four different burrs, steel brush. They're so maneuverable and fast. Just noisy...

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