240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena

[240ZBUILTBYME]

On 5/18/2021 at 5:51 PM, dutchzcarguy said:

Haha.. I guess bit by bit is the answer? i never heard of that expression!

Ryan, could you do a experiment with the bumpers..?  As they are stainless i expect then to go a bit dull after some time.. so as they are not going anywhere, you could do a test.. wrap them up again in the paper and put them in plastic so it's airtight. And leave one part, the rear mid part out..  wash it with ordinary auto wash and dry it and leave it at the air. Then we can see after a year the difference in shiny-ness, i for one would be very curious what the difference will be!  (store the set in one and the same room offcourse)

I think that there will be quite a difference..  Would be a nice test!

Haha 😂 nah mate these will stay shiny till they go on the car! 

im sure one of the guys who have had these Bumpers on their cars for a while can comment on longevity of the shine

nothing lasts forever, I anticipate these will need to get buffed to restore the shine but better that than the the fortune it costs to rechrome. 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

I only got in a half days work on my last RnR, but managed to get some important work done. if you have been following along my front nose was damaged in a past accident and has been some what weakened compared to a stock one. I decided to add an extra bolt in point on my rotisserie mounts to add some strength as I did not trust just bolting to the bumper mounts. This is what I came up with....

first I had to remove the snapped/rusted out bolts from the tow points. This proved difficult, used heat and penetrant along with easy out bits, but to no avail on the LHS, I snapped two easy out bits trying. I ended up just drilling a 10mm hole straight through and will use a M10 nut and bolt, (I’m replacing chassis rails anyway) and I have a conveniently placed rust hole which allows me access to place/tighten the nut.

 I managed to remove the rusted RHS tow point bolt with the easy outs! What a feeling of triumph! 

this additional mount point added a heap of strength to the mounts, vertically and laterally. And it was only tacked together. Once fully welded they will be plenty strong enough to support the car. 

Why did I make it adjustable and not just weld the front mount all together? Good question. I made it adjustable because after I carry out repairs on the front nose the bumper bolt hole locations may alter slightly meaning the rotisserie mounts won’t fit for the underbelly painting. Now they are adjustable, they will fit.

Next up I hope to:

- finish the front mounts

- add supports where needed 

- start on the rear rotisserie mounts

[Namerow]

16 minutes ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

first I had to remove the snapped/rusted out bolts from the tow points. This proved difficult, used heat and penetrant along with easy out bits, but to no avail on the LHS, I snapped two easy out bits trying.

Been there, done that -- LHS tow point on one car, RHS on another.  Needs an oxyacetylene torch.  The flame temperature from a  propane torch isn't high enough and the flame tip is too diffused.   EZ-outs are the devil's tool (the cheap ones, anyway).  Snap one off inside the stud and the degree-of-difficulty for the job instantly increases by a factor of 10. 

[Racer X]

2 hours ago, Namerow said:

 Snap one off inside the stud and the degree-of-difficulty for the job instantly increases by a factor of 10. 

When that happens I use a hammer and a pin punch to shatter the broken tool, and a dental pick to remove the broken bits.

Fiddly, but effective. 

 

Edited June 6, 2021 by Racer X

[240ZBUILTBYME]

I’ve been a bit slack with updates of late, more because it is demoralizing how slow progress is lol 

front section of the rotisserie finally complete and I can move onto the rear of the car, mounts should be much quicker to make on the rear

new mount design all welded up, added further support to the main L shaped section which will be taking the weight. 

 

added supports to uprights

should be well and truly strong enough 

and here is part 1 of the rotisserie build in video, measurements of all sections laid out in the video. 

Ryan

 

Edited June 30, 2021 by 240ZBUILTBYME

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Ordered a set of extractors from Les Collins racing here in oz. apparently these work with Weber’s and Hitachi SUs. Stock heatshield and SU return springs requires  modifications. Lovely craftsmanship however was let down by some surface imperfections during ceramic coating and a few dents in the secondaries, he is sending me a new set of secondaries.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

After completing the front section I moved straight on building the rear mounts. As I was working out what sized tubing to use for the direct mount, I noticed the rear bumper mounts were not flat. There was a few small rust bubbles around the mounts and along the rear valance. So I though I would begin a investigatory expedition into their origin. 

UH OH😬

well it didn’t come out as polite as that... my exclamation rhymed with DUCK, except with PH on the front.... the bog (you call it filler) monster had reared its ugly head...

not knowing if this was from accident damage, which I didn’t think it was, as behind the valance looked undamaged. Or if it was bad rust repairs I decided to press on with my expedition 

BIG UH OH! Again not the phrase I used...

At this point, the suspense to find out just how PH$#*€D my rear valance is was killing me. So I kept going....

At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired. The massive holes I feel would affect the structural integrity of the rear end. Plus I’ve kind of been dying to sink my teeth into some rust repairs. 

Ryan 

 

Edited June 30, 2021 by 240ZBUILTBYME

[Patcon]

That's really unfortunate!

Look on my build thread. I took this apart over the last couple of years...

Some of that metal is pretty stout!

It almost looks like poorly repaired crash damage with holes that allowed rust formation.

I dont know who offers the best rear valance these days. A good donor would be my first choice. Especially if you can get the whole panel. Its one piece from the bottom, up around the lights to under the hatch slam panel.

A 100 or so spot welds 😉

[Racer X]

1 hour ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

After completing the front section I moved straight on building the rear mounts. As I was working out what sized tubing to use for the direct mount, I noticed the rear bumper mounts were not flat. There was a few small rust bubbles around the mounts and along the rear valance. So I though I would begin a investigatory expedition into their origin. 

UH OH😬

well it didn’t come out as polite as that... my exclamation rhymed with DUCK, except with PH on the front.... the bog (you call it filler) monster had reared its ugly head...

not knowing if this was from accident damage, which I didn’t think it was, as behind the valance looked undamaged. Or if it was bad rust repairs I decided to press on with my expedition 

BIG UH OH! Again not the phrase I used...

At this point, the suspense to find out just how PH$#*€D my rear valance is was killing me. So I kept going....

At this point I felt I could not continue with the rotisserie build until this was repaired. The massive holes I feel would affect the structural integrity of the rear end. Plus I’ve kind of been dying to sink my teeth into some rust repairs. 

Ryan 

 

Certainly have some work ahead Ryan.

Soon you can nickname the car Patches.

You'll learn a lot, have an awesome and intimate experience with the car, your wife will become jealous of it, your offspring will wonder who that strange man is that comes around once in a while.

 

It'll be fine.

Cheers mate!

 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

52 minutes ago, Patcon said:

That's really unfortunate!

Look on my build thread. I took this apart over the last couple of years...

Some of that metal is pretty stout!

It almost looks like poorly repaired crash damage with holes that allowed rust formation.

I dont know who offers the best rear valance these days. A good donor would be my first choice. Especially if you can get the whole panel. Its one piece from the bottom, up around the lights to under the hatch slam panel.

A 100 or so spot welds 😉

The best valance comes out of the Uk from auto panel solutions

I purchased one from him a while back, not cheap but a high quality product, until KF finally come out with one I think APS is the best on market

 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

10 minutes ago, Racer X said:

Certainly have some work ahead Ryan.

Soon you can nickname the car Patches.

You'll learn a lot, have an awesome and intimate experience with the car, your wife will become jealous of it, your offspring will wonder who that strange man is that comes around once in a while.

 

It'll be fine.

Cheers mate!

 

Hahahaha I showed my wife this message and she had a good giggle lol 

[Namerow]

7 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

The best valance comes out of the Uk from auto panel solutions

Out of curiosity, why did you buy the (rear?) valence panel before you discovered the damage?

Also:  Assuming that you really were referring to the rear valence, what does APS' panel consist of? (I'm assuming that it's just the usual piece that extends up only to bumper height).