z8987

I've been looking for a project

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    46 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

    The red arrow points to the supply. The yellow points to the return. When the float bowls are full, the floats block more fuel from coming into the carburetors, so the fuel that the fuel pump is pushing through the line needs to go somewhere. That somewhere is back to the tank via the return line.

    engine bay.jpg

    Thank you for taking the time to so clearly point this out. I know it takes time to make it this clear, but I really appriciate it. 

     

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    Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought.

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    47 minutes ago, Pmg said:

    Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought.

    I've been looking for an old truck, and have been without a project for a couple years. I have two jeeps that I'm selling to convert to "Z dollars".  I forgot how I need a project to keep motivated. I've never even been a passenger in a Z. I've always loved them from a far.  This will be the first one I've ever actually been in. 

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    2 hours ago, z8987 said:

    Thank you for taking the time to so clearly point this out. I know it takes time to make it this clear, but I really appriciate it. 

     

    No problem. It was easy since you were good enough to post a photo that had your fuel rail in it. I didn't even need to do a search. The source and return will be even more obvious when you see how your fuel pump is connected. The return on the fuel rail has a small orifice that acts similar to a fuel pressure regulator (as pointed out elsewhere by @Captain Obvious).

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    3 hours ago, z8987 said:

    Sorry. I decided to hold on to them. 

    No problem, The one close up wheel pic you showed was for a late 73 (TOPY 11 73). I was kinda looking for 70 wheels.

    Looks like your having a fun time with the car. Enjoy....... 

     

    If you haven't already I highly suggest you download this It can answer a lot of your questions.

    https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/66-1970-240z-factory-service-manual-body-chassis-volume/

    and this one:

    https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/20-1970-71-240z-factory-service-manuals/

     

     

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    3 hours ago, Pmg said:

    Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought.

     

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    3 hours ago, Pmg said:

    Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought.

    for what ever reason the forum only allows me to post a response to this post.  So here goes, it's not realated to this post.

    I like the idea of keeping my postings about my car under one thread, if admin suggest otherwise I will try to post under specific topics. Right now I'm trying to start the car.  I've go no spark at the plugs. At least I tested the number 1 plug.  It's been a long time, and I've done a little reading here, but I'm at a loss. The coil has spark.  What next? 

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    Points are very simple (no offense) they close and current flows through them and to ground, they open, current stops, and spark happens.  Make sure that the other side of the points has a good ground back to the battery/alternator, and that the points actually close to make the circuit, and that they fully open to break it.  You have to make it and you have to break it.

    You can test both with a meter, under the distributor cap, with the key on.  Everything is exposed and ready for poking.

    Not sure what "coil has spark" means either....

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    4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

     

    Not sure what "coil has spark" means either....

     

     Ditto. Is the coil wire to the dist. putting out a good hot spark or do you mean you have 12 volts going into the coil?  If you've got a hot spark at the coil wire, the points look good and are adjusted properly, replace the condenser. 

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    It could be a bad distributor cap, too. When I was buying the 260Z, the guy was knocking $700 off the price since it wouldn't run. It turned out that it was just a bad distributor cap. I put on a new cap and got the car running.

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    9 hours ago, Pmg said:

    Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought.

    Here it goes again quoting where I don't want quotes. 

     

    I've got spark at the plugs, but no combustion, even when I spray starting fluid in the carbs?  

     

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    On 2/6/2019 at 5:09 PM, z8987 said:

      It's been sitting covered for 15 years in his garage.  
    . I'm also going to spray the atf in the cylinders and let it set for a few days.

    This part might have been overlooked.  It's a very nice looking car but it's unclear why it was parked.  Also, after 15 years the cylinders can get pretty dry.  If the ATF just ran to the bottom of the cylinder you might still have six dry bores.  Squirt some some 30 weight in there all over the place, to get the rings to seal.

    I remember getting a free 1963 Bonneville if me and my friend could get it started.  We spend half a day leaned over the engine bay when a farmer came by on his tractor.  He said "try squirting some oil in the cylinders".  We did and it fired right up.  This was after getting towed down a country road at 50 mph because we had heard that even automatic transmissions will drive the engine if you go fast enough.  Ridiculous, in retrospect.  ("Retrospect"...who came up with that word?).

     

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    11 minutes ago, z8987 said:

    Here it goes again quoting where I don't want quotes. 

    I've got spark at the plugs, but no combustion, even when I spray starting fluid in the carbs?  

    Try pulling a plug and squirting directly in to the cylinder.

    But, maybe, be sure that the carbs are opening.  The SU's are an odd carb, with a piston that rises to let air in based on intake vacuum.  The SU guys will know more but I think it's possible that the carbs are stuck shut.  So the starting fluid won't make it through.  Just a guess.

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    Okay so do you know if you have compression pull the plugs and run a compression check or just put you finger in the plug hole. Could the valves be bent or frozen in place. Compression will tell you. Check the oil in the carb and lift the piston let it drop. Compression spark and fuel is all that needed except the timing could be way off????

     

     

    72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

     

     

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    This is from the 72 FSM.  "Suction pistons".  The early FSM's are sparse on details.  I don't even know if yours has SU's.  Didn't mean to stomp on 7tooZ's post.  Coincidence.

    image.png

    Edited by Zed Head

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    I'm going to dig into the carbs today.  My fuel tank will be done this week.  I had it boiled, the extra vent ports removed, and it will be lined.  I'll "por 15" it and paint it with vht.  I just had a guy leave here that will be installing a 10K lift.  When sears went out of business these guys bought their lifts. I bought a rotary spoA10 trio from them for $2200.  I was getting quotes for lifts when I came across these guys. Awesome deal. 

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    15 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

    Okay so do you know if you have compression pull the plugs and run a compression check or just put you finger in the plug hole. Could the valves be bent or frozen in place. Compression will tell you. Check the oil in the carb and lift the piston let it drop. Compression spark and fuel is all that needed except the timing could be way off????

     

    Do I need to remove the carb to check the oil? There’s oil in the carb? The piston? Do I need to remove the carb to check the piston? 

    72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

     

     

     

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    26 minutes ago, z8987 said:

     

    I really can't do this witout you guys. I'm learning I now know what you mean by the piston, and oil.  I turned it upside down, and guess what there's oil in it.  Not the proper amount now, but there was oil. What type of oil and how much?? 🙂  

    The pistons are black and it took a little work to wiggle them out.   I'll attach a picture.  Can I just clean these up, add oil then try the start sequence again? should the carbs be pulled rebuilt ?   I'd sure like to hear it run before I dig much deeper. 

     

     

    012c93336509e3169253ecfa45c559a81a2cd70285.jpg

    0138606f98165f674560d15bc4e4d0cab24485626e.jpg

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    I got this in the mail today.  Other parts are also coming in. 

    012f582ed82140607c1feb308224ccd10f776c1ac4.jpg

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    I couldn't find any carb stuff in the 70 or 71 FSM's.  But 72 might get you started.  Those are round top SU's I believe.  ZTherapy sells a CD that describes how to make them work too.

    https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

    Click the "Spotter's Guide" in this link - 

    http://www.ztherapy.com/

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    16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

    I couldn't find any carb stuff in the 70 or 71 FSM's.  But 72 might get you started.  Those are round top SU's I believe.  ZTherapy sells a CD that describes how to make them work too.

    https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

    Click the "Spotter's Guide" in this link - 

    http://www.ztherapy.com/

    Looks like ztherapy has a rebuild kit and a video?  How cool is that. I called and left a message. I want to talk to somebody about this before I order.  

     

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