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Snaponfitz

240z 1970 for sale

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For sale 1970 240z runs needs restoration a great starting spot. Vin 003266 some rust engine runs good trans shifts 10,000.00

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The comments above are right on. $10K is too cheap for an early first year car like this.

For a look at what these early Z cars are selling for have a look at Bringatrailer.com  (BaT)

There have been quite a few auctions of these cars in the past few years, especially during the past year. You can get a feel for what these early Z cars are selling for by looking at past auctions on that site.

If you go through the comments on BaT of some of the auctions of early cars you can also get a feel for what potential buyers and Z car fans look for in an early Z car, and what you need to do to get your car sold for the right price---what it's worth in today's market.

You need to upload a LOT of photos of just about every square inch of the car, including the underside----especially the underside. Get the car up on a lift at a shop, make sure there's enough light, and take a hundred photos of all areas of the underside including the frame rails and the floors. It won't matter how dirty the underside is. What will matter is how much rust there is.

From what I can see of this car's frame rails looking down into the engine bay, they look OK. That's a big one---how rusty, or unrusty, the frame rails and the floors are. Don't try to hide anything. The people who haunt BaT know it when something important isn't being shown.

You said the engine runs well and the transmission shifts. Try to get a video of the engine running and also the car going down the road----from both inside and outside the car. That gives people a lot of confidence about a car. Do a cold engine start video with the hood open, and also a full walkaround the car with the engine running. Then get a friend to drive the car while you film from the passenger's seat. It doesn't have to be a long or fast drive. You just want to show that the car and the drivetrain are roadworthy.

And remember, originality always brings the best price. Don't take anything off the car even if it's old, dirty, cracked, or broken. People pay up for original---and rightly so. The best way to destroy the value of a car like this one is to take original stuff off of it or modify it. The only exception might be if you can source some early wheels to replace those later wheels that are on the car. The best kind to have would be original steel wheels with "D" hubcaps, but those are pretty much unobtanium these days unless you have very deep pockets. The next best would be 1970-72 vintage slotted aluminum "mags".

I would offer to buy your car instantly for your asking, but you deserve to get about double that or more for it, depending on how much of that rust that you mentioned is present.   Good luck with the sale!

 

 

 

  

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$35,000 for sure, easily.  We need to make sure that people who want a 240Z pay as much as possible and strangers who are selling their 240Z's get as much as possible.  It's the right thing to do.

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7 hours ago, Snaponfitz said:

For sale 1970 240z runs needs restoration a great starting spot. Vin 003266 some rust engine runs good trans shifts 10,000.00

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I think that people are excited over the fairly low VIN and the fact that it looks unmodified.  Except for the accident.  3266 isn't really that low though.

How much damage is there underneath?  Looks like somebody hit or ran over a large object.

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One weird thing: The passenger headlight scoop is cracked as if it were a fiberglass scoop. Were they fiberglass then? I didn't think so but......

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19 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

$35,000 for sure, easily.  We need to make sure that people who want a 240Z pay as much as possible and strangers who are selling their 240Z's get as much as possible.  It's the right thing to do.

Yeah I am thinking $40k if he paints those fenders. 🙂

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Just now, rcb280z said:

One weird thing: The passenger headlight scoop is cracked as if it were a fiberglass scoop. Were they fiberglass then? I didn't think so but......

Early S30Z's had fiberglass to begin with.

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1 minute ago, Gav240z said:

Early S30Z's had fiberglass to begin with.

Wow, I didn't know that. Learn something new every day.

Seriously, how much is it really worth?

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7 hours ago, Zed Head said:

$35,000 for sure, easily.  We need to make sure that people who want a 240Z pay as much as possible and strangers who are selling their 240Z's get as much as possible.  It's the right thing to do.

Keeps out the riffraff. LOL

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Cliff,
Let’s wait until I get a 240z and then we can work on running the prices up. I’m still looking


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I will throw it up on the lift tomorrow and take more photos of the car underside as well as video the engine running the SU need adjusting but I’ve got it running pretty good not perfect but decent. 

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The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$.

With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show.

It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.

 

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10 hours ago, M3333hp said:

The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$.

With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show.

It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.

 

I have a parts car that has the same rust over the top of the battery tray.  The battery tray and surrounding area were fine.

According to a body mechanic, it is a very easy fix since it is flat metal for the most part.  In my case it was caused by the cowl drains getting clogged with leaves and presumably exhaust gases coming from the caps of the battery.

Edited by 87mj

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I don't know guys, I'm seeing a $10,000 car that requires major restoration,  there are tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car and we haven't seen underneath yet.  The car will sell for whatever Lady Luck decides that day but hope the OP will keep his expectations realistic.  So far I think he has priced it right.

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@87mj  You could be right about the cowl drains being clogged. The question is how thin is the firewall metal around the perforation. If the surrounding metal is thin, especially below the perforation, and if you want to keep the stamped pattern of the firewall, then you would need to source part of another good firewall for the fix. If the stamped firewall pattern doesn't matter, then a piece of flat sheet metal will do. But if I were paying up for skilled work on the firewall I would want to source a solid piece of real Z car firewall so the finished area would look right. It depends on whether someone wants to just fill the hole or have it be right for when the car gets sold. If the car is ever offered on BaT, say, there will be viewers who will pick up on a flat firewall, and then probably start to wonder what other shortcuts were take. It depends on what you want the car to be when it's done.        

@grannyknot   Yes we definitely need to see the underside. Anyone who has owned one of these cars, and especially anyone who has restored one, or paid someone to restore one that had damaged or rusted body metal would want to see the underside to know what they were getting into. But so far we have not seen the underside, and from the photos that have been posted so far I have not seen "tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car". That seems to me to be a pretty broad / negative statement. 

Like I said earlier, I don't see any signs of rust on the shelf at the rear of the hatch opening for example, which is often rusty in these 50 year old first-year Z cars. Similarly, from what you can see of the rocker panels, I don't see rust perforation there either. Maybe there is some, but so far I don't see it in the posted pictures.

Maybe being a Texas car has saved it, but I have seen way more rusty or butchered cars being offered lately. In my experience I would much rather have an honest, unbutchered early Z car body to work on than so many of the cars that have come out of the woodwork lately.

 

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Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: 

 

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I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning). 

Edited by zeeboost
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On 1/28/2019 at 6:37 PM, M3333hp said:

I would offer to buy your car instantly for your asking, but you deserve to get about double that or more for it, depending on how much of that rust that you mentioned is present.   Good luck with the sale!  

"I refuse to buy your car because the price is too low!"  

How do you know what he deserves?

Anyway.  It's a 240Z in SE Texas, with minor front end damage from some sort of collision.  Getting down there and transporting it will be the big issues.  

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53 minutes ago, zeeboost said:

Yeah I'm not really understanding the hype. It's a decent foundation, but there are signs of rust all over the car, just not many closeups of it. Though some parts of the body have been buffed to be shiny, it will still need a repaint...especially once the trim moldings are removed and the body damage is sorted out. It will likely still need a minimum of floors, more than likely frame rails too. Not sure how bad the rust goes on the passenger inner fender. I have a hunch the passenger side has more rust damage that's hiding. It's been sitting for a long time, will need brakes gone through, clutch system, all rubbers and bushings. The carbs sound like they were cleaned enough to start, but will still need to be completely gone through to be a driver. Front valance looks damaged, turn signal busted, seats need to be completely rebuilt, dash has a few cracks, rear bumper tweaked, etc. I can go on and I know I'm sounding like I'm being really picky for a 50 year old Datsun, but for $10k I would want something that isn't going to require as much of a restoration as a "rust bucket" that still needs roughly the same amount of repair as the ones listed in these ads: 

 

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I'm not criticizing his price, everyone is entitled to ask what they want for what they're selling. It's the responses that this should be a $20k+ car that have me confused. Maybe if he sells it internationally...? The car in this post has been for sale for at least a couple weeks now locally, if it was that good of a deal it would've been gone quickly. I don't see a lot of difference between the one being offered for sale on this thread and the ones posted above that just sold recently (green earlier this month, yellow one this morning). 

Its not a 10k car internationally!

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Yeah, maybe I'm not up to date on Z values, but I don't see a $20k car there. It looks like it needs a total restoration. $10k is way more in line with what I'd expect it to go for.

 

Also, in addition to the rust in the firewall, it looks like it has rust on the inside of the tail panel, just below where the tail lights mount, where the tail panel meets the trunk floor. Strange place to rust, don't think I've seen that before.

Edited by rturbo 930
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