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Elliott000

Where to go with this rusthole

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Any of u guys familiar with tabco panels? I just ordered the rockers but need to cut the quarters up some aswell. I can't afford the quarters right now but I want to know if they have the fold on em into the door jamb or is it just a cut edge?

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Tabco panels are a mixed bag, and will need a little bit of work at a minimum, or at the worst, they're basically junk (rear lower quarter corners). The rockers seem to have an issue with the step down (for lack of a better term) where the rocker meets the fender tends to have a split in it that you'll need to weld up.

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Good to know. I don't mind a bit of Tom ****ery to make it work. Rockers should be here soon so we shall see. I am a bit nervous about the quarter repair tho. I basically need thier panel but right down to the bottom. Now I have to buy that little bottom peice someday to finish it off. Maybe I can find a guy locally cutting up a car, ill keep my eyes peeled online.

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10 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

I am a bit nervous about the quarter repair tho. I basically need thier panel but right down to the bottom.

This photo may help you understand the details for the Tabco rear-quarter patch panels.  Unfortunately, it doesn't answer your specific question, because the door jamb edge can't be seen on either panel.  Looks like they may be difficult to integrate properly unless you also replace the outer wheel housings (also shown in the photo) so as to get a decent bonding/sealing surface around the lip.  The four pieces will probably cost Cdn $800 - $1000 after you've paid for shipping, tax, duties, etc.

S30 - Rust Repair - Rear Wheel Arch - Tabco inner & outer wheel well panels 2a.jpg

Edited by Namerow
further comment added

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18 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:

Tabco panels are a mixed bag, and will need a little bit of work at a minimum, or at the worst, they're basically junk (rear lower quarter corners). The rockers seem to have an issue with the step down (for lack of a better term) where the rocker meets the fender tends to have a split in it that you'll need to weld up.

Exactly ^  but Tabco's rear deck plate for the hatch is a drop in and weld. But what are going to do, they are the only game in town.

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Pretty sure I found a shot of the tabco quarters with the fold. They tie in to the jam like factory which is good. Only pain will be the long welds.... Body work practice is in order. Patience and cool each tack I guess! default_laugh.png

 

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Been awhile since I've posted about the "rust hole" I've finished the front frame rebuild and re attached the inner fenders Nad bow I move back onto the rockers and completing the floors. Which brings me to this, inner rocker around what I assume is the seatbelt bracket is toast but only. On the bottom, should I just cut off the rot on the bottom in the picture and rebuild with some hand made pieces. It appears there's about three layers total here. Inner, outer and then dog leg. Front is a similar situation. It's almost overwhelming but that's cuz I'm new i guess ha. 20180827_141633.jpeg20180827_141729.jpeg1535404947330.jpeg

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Look at Disepyom's thread. He was selling these parts but I think he has stopped but he has some great pics in his thread

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Kudos for three of the best pictures I've seen that show the challenge of repairing the Z dogleg.  This seems to be the single most important and consistent repair area for a Z and yet no  one manufactures a repair panel kit to address the problem.  If these were Alfas or Porsches, someone would be making the kit.  Disepsyon is a very talented guy, but he's not interested in making 100+ repair kits.  We really need someone like MSA or ZCar Depot to step up here.

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I spoke with dispeyon a while back. Guys got talent for sure. In terms of the middle piece at the front that I've cut off I'm just gunna form a sheet metal patch minus the holes. The challenge I have in my mind is recreation of that lower sill/pinch weld area. Part of me wants to forgo the triple deal and just use a thicker guage under the seatbelt bolt hole and then tie the already heavier guage tabco rockers into er. Either way, I think it will be stronger. I generally don't make things less than before ha

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The only way

1 hour ago, Elliott000 said:

 In terms of the middle piece at the front that I've cut off I'm just gunna form a sheet metal patch minus the holes.

That's about all you can do without drilling out the spot welds and separating everything.  Once you have it all cut back to clean metal one of those small hand held sand blasters comes in handy to reach up into those cavities and clean the surface rust off.  The doglegs are about the most complicated and frustrating area to repair on these cars, once they're done is all down hill.

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Finally getting back into this bad boy. I had some life $^!# slow me down plus my bronco needed some love.... I've basically tuned up on side and about ready to install the rocker. Im replacing some pitted metal on the front and rear jamb before i get there tho. Just need my buddys shrinker/stretcher so I can form these jamb pieces, weld em in and ill put the rocker on!

In terms of flow.... Do most people suggest working one side of the car at a time or one area. Like, should I fibish this rocker and door jamb area then goto the other side and repeat, or should I continue back and tackle the rear quarter. 20181018_121509.jpeg

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IMHO, finish each section. One doesn't want to remove a lot of metal at the same time on these cars unless the car is on a jig.

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Sounds good, yea I wouldn't walk away from a half finished section. I think im goin to finish the rocker area on one side then move to the rocker on the other while the parts I made are fresh in my mind. Then after they are in, I'll move into the sheet metal fender repairs! I'm gettin excited haha20181020_181603.jpeg

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So, the next part of the puzzle.... These images are from a parts car I cut up the other side is in worse shape, as are mine on the current build. For the outer peice I've seen guys make a wooden thing and beat into it but I don't really know how to start in on the block haha, as for the hood mount section, I was thinkin of just cutting some sheet to fit but noticed the fender mount lip actually tapers from inside to out as it goes, this is gunna be a critical part for panel alignment and hook setup down the road so I don't wanna screw it up. My cars are in worse shape. Even more so because they are wrinkled from a front end collision. Any suggestion on rebuilding that section? Maybe cut out the main flat part and just re work the damaged metal to straight on my car? 20181023_161638.jpeg20181023_161722.jpeg

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Hey patcon thanks for responding. Here's the current front end. And a some success at the bottom haha, finished my rocker panel today. You can see the driverside is decent except for some rust in the mid area but that's easy enough to cut out. The passengar side is rough and must have taken the crunch. It's rusty and beaten. My primary concern aside from relocation of the hood bracket perfectly is the messed up top part the headlight bucket sits on. 20181024_182049.jpeg20181024_182057.jpeg20181024_182113.jpeg20181024_182122.jpeg20181024_182133.jpeg20181024_182200.jpeg

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The rocker looks good!

I don't think you are gonna be much better off trying to graft in the other nose section. I would straighten the drivers side top flange the best you could. Shrinking with heat where possible. If you can't get the top pflange just right, cut it to remove some metal and mig it back up.

It looks like the radiator support is mostly out, so I would drill out the rest and repair the drivers side with a metal patch. I can't really tell how bad the rust is on the passenger side, due to all the different colors. I would rework the top flange on this side in a similar fashion and use a template from the drivers side as a guide to set the curve for the passenger side. There is some adjustment in the headlight bucket holes which will help some. If you had some pristine donor front end cuts, I might go at this a different way, but with what you've got I think that is how I would do it. If you need help spotting the re-enforcing plates locations, we can probably get some dimensions from several cars to get you really close.

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On the topic of reinforcing plates. What attaches to the 2 bolted plate on the bottom. I've tried looking for pictures but never see anything attached! See pic, bottom rectangle 2 holds with folded edge

 

Also, i may have a line on a front clip with better off "wings" his cars been sandblast Ed and he mentioned that they are fine.

 

 

20181024_182113.thumb.jpeg.766d0d5d66ee85c964e5cfe6415e7305.jpeg

 

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Those maybe the holes for the bumper brackets

Normally I would try to scab those pieces in behind the radiator support junction, but since yours are wrinkled up high and further back, I might try to come up with a good way to do it where it's easy to make it disappear.

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While I brainstorm on those front pieces the show must go on! Finished that rocker off complete so it's onto the quarter panel. This will be my first "real" body panel job..... Nervous haha, the inner splash fenders bead is basically gone but the rest is pretty solid. I'm wondering. Since I plan on running flares, should I be getting those ordered and fitting them as I go. I Beleive that inner fender gets cut up to allow for more tire. Rebuilding that rolled bead will suck but if im cutting it out one day then maybe now's the time? I noticed when I removed the outer skin they the upper part sucked in a bit. Leads me to believe how critical alignment etc will be to prevent major bondo work in the future 20181025_103844.jpeg20181025_103910.jpeg20181025_103947.jpeg20181025_104203.jpeg20181025_104207.jpeg

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Ah, can't do flare prep... Cars not on ground with fi al tire size haha. Gunna be a fixer jobby

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