duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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    1 hour ago, 240260280 said:

    I think fly wheel would be most accurate from an angular error perspective, and from a mechanical slop perspective:

    1. Distributor has gear lash slop at crank
    2. Damper has rubber migration and shear.
    3. Flywheel is bolted to crank, teeth are farthest from axis for least angular error, and they move fastest for strongest pulse at same rpm. You can easily add more teeth for finer resolution.

    Could t agree more with the flywheel being used. 

    Like said above , a CAS alone will run your motor just fine .

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    The flywheel is an interesting idea.  Already bought the hoke kit.  Now to figure out how I should wire the R35 coils in a wasted spark setup.  I think this basic idea would work fine.  

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    Sorry , but trying to follow too many threads , but are you running a Haltech? 

    Shouldnt you refer to their manual as far as wiring ? There might be a method of wiring it for sequential but firing it wasted spark. This way if you get a cam sensor it’s just a software update and not rewiring issue

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    I haven't bought an ecu yet, but I think I will get the haltech Elite 750.  

    I believe I am the first for doing wasted spark and R35 coils.  I don't think I will do a cam sensor, but if I do, it wouldn't be too hard to change.  The injectors and ignition would be paired by the ecu, so it can be changed to sequential anytime. 

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    2 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

    R35 are the Nissan family. 2nd highest tested coil on the market (I’m not an expert) looks cool. Available new. All black and small. 

    Are they smart coils?

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    Yes. Smart coil design. Two wire systems need a separate igniter.

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    Sweet! They look better than my d585’s

    Edited by madkaw

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    I don't know anything about this stuff... What's a "smart coil"? Is that one that handles things like dwell and saturation current by itself?

    13 hours ago, duffymahoney said:

    2nd highest tested coil on the market

    Sounds neat. Is there a test report on the web you can point us to?

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    Looks good. Will be interesting to see if the harness plugs will go on and off easily

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    12 hours ago, Patcon said:

    Looks good. Will be interesting to see if the harness plugs will go on and off easily

    It will be tight, but you don’t need a lot of room for the connectors. My set up didn’t give a lot of room for the connectors either. In fact, you learn that there’s not a lot of room for this whole project and you wind up doing three versions before something works right. I must say I am really digging this because of the use of the smart coils and the clean look of these R35 coils compared to my D-585. 

     

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    I agree. My COP rail is the third version and the orientation of the plugs for the connectors was a consideration. In the end, I still feel there is quite a bit of room though.

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    50 minutes ago, duffymahoney said:

    Whee. That’s a great looking setup!

     

    I would guess the plug clears. But I should know this am. 

    Thanks!  I built mine further away from the block for two reasons: I wanted to ensure the COPS were far away from the heat of the block, and secondly, I wanted to 'balance' the look of the engine bay so the intake wasn't out of place. The COP manifold also hides a lot of the unsightly hoses and wiring on the passenger side of the engine.

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    I got all my boots in, I wish there was an easy way to test the coils.  But I know the spring is compressed on the spark plug, so I should be good.

     

    How has everyone run new ecu wiring into the engine bay?

    My early 240z has dealer AC. Which complicates things. Really I only have two holes open. The choke cable hole and the tunnel hole near the shifter. I would rather not cut any holes.

    If I leave the coil power wiring in the engine bay and do the o2 sensor and maybe the triggers for the coils through tunnel hole I am thinking I might have enough room for it with those two holes? It’s going to be tight, but I think I can do it all clean and nice. I will be using german braied loom for the whole project.

    No pulsed outputs.

    Plans

    Choke hole
    Injector wiring
    Cas wiring
    Air temp
    Coolant temp
    TPS 
    Crank trigger wiring

    Tunnel hole
    Injector triggers 
    Power and ground 
    O2 sensor

    Fuel pump wiring is already in place.

     

    I also got in the euro kit from Hoke for my crank trigger.  Which should work better on my series 1 dampener.  I have to remove .08 from the backside to have it perfect.  Then off to paint.  Blue or black?! 

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    The 280Z has a lot more options for wiring as there is the original FI hole on the drivers side plus the standard wiring harness hole on the passenger side.

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    I used my AC holes since I don’t have AC. Where are you mounting the ECU? I split up my harness running my sensor wires out the opposite side of the engine using the choke hole. 

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