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duffymahoney

Duffy's 1/71 Series 1 240z build

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I have a series 1. Which I guess means that my diff is further forward then later years. That’s why the series 1 driveshaft is too long. I will cut down an extra series 1 driveshaft I have. 

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That’s an option. I kind of like the goofy series 1 stuff most people don’t know about. Like me, till yesterday  

 

Shortening the driveshaft is the easier route. My overall plan with my z is crate everything that I take off and make everything easy to go back to stock with. Like my stock trans could be back in a few hours at most. Stock diff would be the same. 

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This build is just nuts, there's some seriously high end items being used here! 

What's the end goal for it? It should drive amazingly with everything that you've done to date.... 

Very jelaous of the brake upgrade, it is beyond my means. 

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I don’t know if it’s nuts, but thank you. 

 

The goal is continue to have fun building it. This will be my last project for the summer then it’s driving time! Everything I do can be un- bolted and put back to stock as well.  I am crating all original parts.  Also I like the idea of it appearing mostly stock outside of the stance and visible stuff like brakes.  

Next? Honestly I don’t know. Part of me wants to crate the stock motor and build a more fun one. Who knows. 

Edited by duffymahoney
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I got married last week, so progress slowed down. Hopefully driving it this weekend. 

The e-brake is in. Basically attached right up. I used a simple C clip to hold it in. It doesn’t need it. But I thought it would help. I need to adjust it currently it too many clicks up, the goal is 5-6  the e brake calipers lock the wheels down crazy tight.   

I have installed the master. I found a write up on here about bench bleeding. I tried this method. I really liked it. Zero air left in. I’m going dot4 race fluid from stoptech. My favorite drive is a 10 mile 2k vertical hill climb to my local ski resort. Brakes get hot on the way down. I hate brake fluid. Hate it. Somehow I got some in my eye. 

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Well test run didn't go well, I have a strange crack sort of sound when I got from stop to forward and back and also a slapping sound at higher speed. Trans seems to shift fine.  It's a little too modern feeling, I am thinking it might be better without the short throw shifter.  Hopefully it's something dumb.  

 

Noise doesn't seem to be coming from the trans or the rear end.  Rear end doesn't whine.  Which I think is good.  

Edited by duffymahoney
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Hey Duffy... congrats on both getting married and testing your car....

Just one observation on your noises....

Crack Sound - maybe be a U-joint / Drive shaft or side axles ... maybe add some grease?  rotate when car is on the ground check for play..  

Good luck.... keep us posted....

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30 minutes ago, moritz55 said:

Hey Duffy... congrats on both getting married and testing your car....

Just one observation on your noises....

Crack Sound - maybe be a U-joint / Drive shaft or side axles ... maybe add some grease?  rotate when car is on the ground check for play..  

Good luck.... keep us posted....

Thanks! Gosh I hope it's a u-joint.  Nothing is loose.  I did remove them all when I did the last round of zinc.  So that is a thought.  I am just hoping its not something super important or hard to repair.

 

I bought an portable o2 meter, I think my carbs aren't happy.  I have a feeling i have them too rich.  

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Regarding your Carbs running possibly rich....   until you get your O2 meter hookup (for each Carb?) I'll share what I did becuase I didn't want to install two O2 sensors for each SU.

1) I used Colortune 14mm plug and this technique for fine tuning Carb A/F mixture on cylinder #2 & #5 for twin SU's .  At Idle and 3000 rpm ... plenty of Youtube videos on this...    https://www.amazon.com/Gunson-G4074-Colortune-Single-Plug/dp/B0012MB4VE/ref=pd_sbs_263_1/139-8508085-4072005?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0012MB4VE&pd_rd_r=0c081181-9cc0-11e9-b500-9959ee5ce66b&pd_rd_w=6PqYJ&pd_rd_wg=arPBD&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=R68MTQD1GKPP7VZV8M3G&psc=1&refRID=R68MTQD1GKPP7VZV8M3G

Video

2) Then used this manual page (attachment) referring to page 11 "Testing Procedure" .  Under load so it gave me a good indication that my "SM" needles were too rich during pickup/cruising... so now I am running "SR" needles which are closer to N-27 stock needles and the car runs great.  Page 45 has the needle profiles for comparing "SM" vs "SR".

I know you have Triple Carbs... but thought this approach may add to your fine tuning approach...

Good luck....

SU Needles - Tuning_SU_Carburetors.pdf

Edited by moritz55

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I should get the o2 meter today.  Hopefully the tailpipe reader works well enough, or it will be time to get the welder out.  

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I got my Innovate LM-2 AF meter.  I was around 9-10 at idle with my jet settings, so I dropped it to the lowest jet i had.  Still reading right around the same at 9.8 or so.  

 

Could spark/ dizzy issues be causing the AFM to read real rich?  I tested the LM-2 against my other cars and they are all in the high 13's and 14s.  So I think its right, also my z smells real rich and it has some carbon build up.  Any reason why the jets wouldn't change AFM?  

I have some smoke now as well, which I am real hopeful is just excess gas.  It dissipates quickly.  Hard to tell what color it is.  

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I checked fuel level and adjusted, also went down on the main jets.  Didn't change anything.  

 

I ordered a 123 dizzy.  So hopefully that gains me some adjust ability  I didn't have before.  

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20 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Have you been able to test the brakes yet, how are they working?

They work amazing.  Hands down the best mod I have done in a while.  Modern/ race feel.  

 

I think my main issue with my 02 meter is the fact that is after the muffler.  So I am getting some goofy readings.  Bump the idle to say 1000 rpms and it's reading normal.  So time to tune!  

 

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1 hour ago, duffymahoney said:

They work amazing.  Hands down the best mod I have done in a while.  Modern/ race feel.  

 

I think my main issue with my 02 meter is the fact that is after the muffler.  So I am getting some goofy readings.  Bump the idle to say 1000 rpms and it's reading normal.  So time to tune!  

 

Yes you are getting reversion of fresh air.  If you can attach your sensor to a pipe that draws from deep in the muffler folds back into the exhaust pipe then you will be able to tune at idle.

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I got o2 bungs installed.  So far so good. 

I am super rich at idle, but pretty close on higher rpms, I need to do a drive with them installed, but I have a bad noise coming from the suspension or rear end.  

 

I kind of have it narrowed down to either half shafts, driveline or something improperly installed in the rear end, everything else has been checked and re checked.  This video is with the cars parking brake on.  It's like a strange clunk/ click noise.  I am hopeful it's something u joint, but it's such a strange noise I am scratching my head.  Maybe something in the LSD?  It also does it at low speeds and lots of gas pedal on and off in 1st gear and 2nd gear.  

 

 

 

 

IMG_2486.jpg

Edited by duffymahoney
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