Home Built Z 'Full video build'

[240260280]

Common restoration niggle: Moustache Bar needs to be flipped. Welcome to the club! 

This will push the differential forward and provide clearance at the rear cross bracket.

 

 

 

Edited December 14, 2018 by 240260280

[240260280]

I think the confusion may be due to the bigger R200 differential needing the moustache bar flipped like yours:

 

[tzagi1]

Adding a relay to the starter is not a bad idea, it does increase the life span of the ignition switch.

[Home Built by Jeff]

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I think the confusion may be due to the bigger R200 differential needing the moustache bar flipped like yours:

 

I was looking at that. How do I tell if my diff is an R180 or an R200. I am thinking it is an R200 already in which case the mustache bar is the correct way around?

[Home Built by Jeff]

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I think the confusion may be due to the bigger R200 differential needing the moustache bar flipped like yours:

 

I was looking at that. How do I tell if my diff is an R180 or an R200. I am thinking it is an R200 already in which case the mustache bar is the correct way around?

[240260280]

It looks like a 240z R180 in the video.  Have a look at the back shape and fill hole location to help.

[Zed Head]

The bolts on the side flange area are an R180.  Plus you can tell by the cover.  The picture that 246 grabbed from your video, in post #349, shows an R180 cover.  R200's didn't show up in the Z's until 1975.

[wheee!]

I believe this will explain your relay setup for the starter best:

http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html

[cgsheen1]

Just posted this on HybridZ - not to double up, but I thought I'd add to what these brilliant Gentlemen are saying:

Jeff, hate to keep harping on the transmission slave cylinder, clutch fork, collar, and throw-out bearing... BUT...

I strongly recommend that you get the correct length collar and use the stock throw-out bearing.  When all that is correct inside the bell housing, the fork should be pushed forward far enough that there is virtually no play between the fork and the stock slave push rod. 

In it's current configuration I believe you may well have trouble with the collar moving too far forward and slipping off the tube that it should glide back and forth on.  If it does that while driving you'll be in trouble... The collar length needs to match the pressure plate thickness (not necessarily the type transmission you have but the clutch package).  I have 3 different length collars in my collection.

I also have fear and trepidation about that mustache bar.  You definitely have an R180 diff and you need an R180 mustache bar that's mounted properly.  The Z differential has a tendency to move - a  lot - in it's factory fresh condition and I always want those bolt holes to fit nice and tight because the nuts will NOT hold the differential to the bar (without moving) by themselves.

+1 on the starter relay - The start signal is one of the most common Z deficiencies.  The solution many people use is to connect the start signal to a relay coil and use power straight from the battery to engage the starter solenoid. 

[Zed Head]

There have been several posts on this site and around the internet about the fact that you can't go wrong with your clutch parts if the measurement from the "ears" of the throwout sleeve collar to the flywheel surface is close to 92mm.  There are ways to make the "wrong" parts work but if you have that measurement then you can use a common late 240Z-280Z clutch fork and 280Z slave cylinder.

Not sure if it was mentioned in previous posts.

Here's one of several threads where we talk about it.  I've also measured from the fork to the slave cylinder bolt, to confirm from the outside if the parts are right.  I believe that you have the engine in now so let's hope...

 

[Zed Head]

Here's that measurement from outside.  ~6 cm.  

[Home Built by Jeff]

The moustache bar is something I will look into. I should be able to get one from Zac.

The solenoid sounds like it is a good thing, as long as it is all wired up correctly, which is something I will check moving forward.

As for the clutch fork, I think I am almost there. When I reinstalled the old bearing and spacer into the gearbox last week at the correct length to match the longer collar, the fork was wedged hard against the end of the opening. Not right. Now that I have the new bearing with the new clutch fork, it all sits perfectly in the opening of the case. I think the issue is more that I have the wrong slave cylinder for this set up now. I am confident that my fix with the longer pin has corrected this mismatch of parts. 

This is the issue with getting a car in boxes from someone who has 20 of them from all different years. It is a matter of working out what goes with what. Zac is great and has 5 of everything, it is just a matter of piecing the correct bits together. I am just amazed at how many differences there are between S30 models. I thought it would have just been a slight cosmetic difference here and there and a slightly improved engine. It definitely goes a lot deeper than that.