Jdizz07

L28 280Z Car engine problems!!!

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    All those are small things, it should crank and run without all that crap.  Not drive but crank.

    The broken wire goes onto the BCDD right above it, to the right.  No big deal yet.

    The vacuum canister and dizzy hose go into a T fitting, one goes to the cannister the other to the vacuum advance.  no effect until driving.

    You could take the thermotine and other sensor out, clean them and solder the wires directly onto their positions.

    Your first picture is the dash pot, I don't run one on my '77.  They are to keep the RPM from falling too fast and are open to the atmosphere.  Yours is missing the smaller hole car but that's no big deal.

    That vacuum module with the wires cut and the port broken somehow ties into the EGR, or BPT.  Can't remember but mines gone.  Does it go on the heating plate and the hose comes out of the thermal vacuum switch?  

    If it won't crank after a rebuild you've got deeper problems than what you've shown above.  Check the spark plug wires and firing order, loosen the dizzy and have someone crank on the car while turning the cap and see if you can get it to hit.

    Good luck.

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    As site says it should start without any of those broken items.  Except for the BCDD and the dash pot they are all to make cold starting and running easier but shouldn't stop it from starting.

    Maybe add some details about what it sounds like when it's turning over.  You said that you have spark and fuel.  Are you even getting a pop?  Spark plus gasoline almost always gets at least a pop.

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    Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank and a strong battery.  Is it a newly rebuilt?  First time cranking?  The oil pump and distributor spindle must be right on.  Did you time everything with the first two cam lobes up like rabbit ears?  True top dead center.

    Image result for 280z distributor spindle location

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    Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it.

    I originally cranked it over post-rebuild without the spark plugs to get the oil up/check there is no bent valves, timing correct, etc but now thinking about your last post Site, the dizzy could be in the wrong way. (180 degrees around ), this would certainly make a difference right? I can almost assure you that the timing/tdc is correct as i had to do it twice! (broken head bolt, dont as lol). but i didnt check the dizzy when it went in.

    I get a popping sound out of the AFM when i give it gas while trying to start it. Think the dizzy in the  wrong orientation is my answer! Will get to it this weekend guys and let you know. Thanks again for the help!

    Cheers JD

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    Don't assume that it's off by "180".  There's nothing special about 180 degrees.  The tang and slot are meant to fit only one way even though they look like they could go 180 off.  You'd have to force worn parts together to do that though.

    If you removed the oil pump, it's more likely that you installed it a gear tooth or two off.  It's super easy to check though.  Set the timing mark on about 10 degrees on the compression stroke  and see where the rotor is pointing.  

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    Also did you set the valve lash cold? Early on in my life I had an L24 I rebuilt that wouldn't start. Took it to our mechanic. The valves were too tight, no compression or intake vacuum

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    Hi Guys,

    After a couple of dry weekends Ive managed to get back onto the Datsun engine, but shes still not running properly if at all.

    I corrected the dizzy shaft tang to what appears to me to be the correct tooth. See photo below. 

    Now, Ive plugged up both vacuum hoses from the dizzy and purge tank respectively (see photo on previous page)

    Thermo time switch and water temp switch are both not fixed/connected either.

    I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?... and then it dies, and unable to start again. Ive done this twice. I have half a tank of gas, and getting spark. 

    Im really unsure what to do now!!! Very frustrating, living in a place with limited parts and limited knowledge on these cars!.. Was even thinking of getting rid of the whole FI and going for carbs! 

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    Dizzy.jpg

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    34 minutes ago, Jdizz07 said:

    I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?...

    Are you sure you have the plug wires in the right rotational direction?  I've had mine start and run like you describe with them on backward.  153624 counterclockwise.

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    Ill check the dizzy/leads but im sure Ive check them more than once to be correct. Im trying to by a second hand intake off a late 280zx so I can grab the thermotime sensor and water temp switch. But unsure this will solve anything...

    The triple carbs would be my overall choice for what i would like, aesthetics and reducing the old dodgy electrics, however its a massive trade-off because I want to drive the car now, and dont want to spend the money....

    Anyone got a cheap set of triples out there for me?!?!

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    Disconnect the EFI system by disconnecting the fusible link or fuel pump power and see if it runs better with just starting fluid.  If it still runs bad then it's not going to run better with carbs.  There's no magic bullet, even with carbs.

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    42 minutes ago, Jdizz07 said:

    Anyone got a cheap set of triples out there for me?!?!

    Set of Italian 40DCOE's , Cannon Intake, K&N Air Filters  for 1100UKP?

    Edited by 240260280

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