That's not how it's sold. Plus the added cost you might as well buy something better

Any suggestions?

The price on these has gone up since I last looked them but, http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10&products_id=242&zenid=0usn3hloiia3ff5sr1himig8n6

The BHJ damper is MUCH cheaper if bought through Rebello.  I realise this seems counter-intuitive, but I think BHJ very much prefers for people to buy through their resellers, so they jack up the prices when selling directly.  I believe Rebello sells that damper for something in the region of $375.  Nice piece!

Gone!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 13, 20179 yr by Diseazd

Love the piston rod assemblies!!! Those are beautiful. Also really like the weigh matching!

@Diseazd Cool pics! No offense, but could you please start your own thread? I'm still building my engine, I'm just slow with updating. This thread is getting quite confusing with different builds. 

So sorry German 240......didn't mean to hi jack your thread....will start one....good luck with your build!

Guy

Update: Final assembly is going to start the upcoming weekend!

Are there any opinions concerning the removal of the oil filter bypass valve? Should I plug it? I'm going to run 20w-50 oil and a turbo oil pump.

Thanks guys!

 

PS: I bought the professional products damper (the cheaper one, the SFI spec is NLA). It is a tight fit; but it fits (needs light persuation with a soft mallet).

Edited October 16, 20178 yr by german240

I put a turbo oil pump on my 2.4 with only a spray bar, my gauge stays pegged on the right side.  I think it's too much for mine as it leaks around the oil pump a little.  If that bypass ball wasn't there I'd be replacing gaskets.  Hopefully this winter I'll be adding an oiler cam to go along with the spray bar.

Hey @siteunseen, oil pressure is not affected by the bypass valve at all. It only opens if the filter is clogged, pressure is adjusted by the oil pump spring. Anyways, I replaced the bypass valve by a brand new one.

 

I also removed the block expansion plugs. There was so much crud behind! Really worth removing it. Additionally, my F54 block has a cast webbing between the cylinders. I think there is some wrong info about this around!

And driving in new core plugs with silicon sealant (yes, I repainted the block grey)

 

Edited November 5, 20178 yr by german240

Update!

Block bored (89mm) & decked

Crank fully balanced and polished

Piston assembly

Forged H beam rods with ARP hardware

Crank end play check (0.11mm)

Conrod bearing clearance check (plasti gage) - around 0,050mm. Conrod big eye side play is 0.17mm (not shown, measured using feeler blades). 

Main bearing clearance 0,050mm

 

New oil bypass valve (the spring is in fact significantly stiffer then the old one - $5 well invested)

In order to clear the ARP bolts, the block required sligth notching (picture before). On cyl 5 the bolts even touched the wall!

Finally, there's around 1mm clearance - that should work. 

 

Bottom end almost ready!

 

 

Edited November 11, 20178 yr by german240