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Problems leveling my 240z


Darren Mann

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I keep coming back around full circle that a 280Z strut may be installed

on the side that is low.

If you were to put 240Z springs on a 280Z strut, I think that is exactly how it would sit.

Measure the length of both struts to see if same length. 

That will help get past that possibility.

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One thing to remember is that this problem was what caused me to start replacing parts.  I just have not found a solution after installing new struts (that were the same length), new urethane bushings on the control arms (torqued while on the ground), New pivot pin, new springs (verifed in the correct position and correct location),  tires measure the same size.  The insulators and rubber bushing in the insulator (240z style) were the only parts I didn't replace in the strut assembly because they were in good shape.  No cracks and the rubber still soft.  They are both bolted up correctly to the strut tubes.  I know it's difficult to picture what I have as a problem and I really appreciate all the feedback.  Thank you!

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This would help.  With the strut towers level, measure the tire height, the gap between the top of the tire and the top of the fender well, and the distance from the floor to the top of the fender well.  Post those three numbers for each side.  

 

No discussion about what's what, or what's worn out, or bent, or anything, just six numbers, three for each side.  They will tell a lot.

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One thing to remember is that this problem was what caused me to start replacing parts.  I just have not found a solution after installing new struts (that were the same length)

 

I don't think you installed 2 new rear struts. I think you mean new shocks I assume.

If you just installed the shocks, that really does not do much for ride height unless a

person installed the old discontinued high pressure Bilstein shocks. Now those raised the car.

Been there done that.

A 240Z shock can go into a 280Z strut. You need to verify if you have a 280Z strut installed.

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Did you measure what I asked you to measure? We need to see some numbers. Maybe you have a 240Z strut assembly on one side and a 280Z on the other? Something is way off. You can also measure the strut mounting point in the hatch area. Make sure that the left and right are at the same height off the hatch floor. That's a long shot but you need to make sure that everything is in check. I wish you were closer. I'd love to have a look at it.

 

Chuck

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25-1/4" to the floor.  Both sides the same when the strut towers are leveled up.

I was planning to stay out of this, but what the heck...

 

This post (that I quoted) established that the frame (chassis) is ok.  That is unless it is rusted out and is sagging when loaded.  That would be fairly obvious, though because the door gaps would be affected and in the extreme case the doors might not even open.  So check the chassis off the list.  

 

There are two posts that in my mind narrow down the search considerably.

First, look at these pictures:

 

post-22075-0-94964900-1449065888_thumb.jpost-22075-0-74428600-1449065889_thumb.jpost-22075-0-45932200-1449065890_thumb.j

 

It's pretty obvious to me both sprung and unsprung the passenger wheel is higher that the driver's side.  The only way that is going to happen is if the struts are different lengths.  I suppose that the bushings could also cause this if you tightened them wrong but you said this problem was there before you changed the bushings and springs.  

 

My suggestion is to take both strut assemblies out.  Shine a light into the strut tower and make sure there isn't anything jammed in there and then measure the height from the center of the axle to the top of the strut mount insulator.  Obviously they should both be the same.  If they are you should check the damper and make sure they are the same on each side.  Then the springs (but I don't think it's the springs because the unsprung height difference).  One thing that you might not know is that the MSA strut mount insulators are 3/4" lower than the stock ones.  So, if you have two different insulators...

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Ok I lifted it off the ground and placed a block under the passenger cab corner and lowered it until level across the strut towers.   I measured from bottom of tires to top of the tires on both sides - 23"  I measured the distance from top of the tire to the fender passenger side measured 4.75" Driver side 5.75".  I measured from the top of inner strut housing to the spindle bolt Passenger side - 27-5/8"  Driver side 27-3/4".  Nothing makes sense.  When lowered to the ground the distance from top of the tire to the fender - Passenger 3/4"  Driver 2-3/4"

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With the car level like that, get a jack stand as a safety or some wooden blocks so the car can't fall on you and measure from the large bolt head on the rear side of the control arm to the floor. the bolt threads in to the tube that has the rear bushing on it. the measurements aught to be pretty close if the floor is flat. If they are roughly the same the problem is in the struts. Springs, strut, tube or the way its mounted. Maybe one of the struts is wrong or bad.

 

I don't think my question about strut cartridges earlier has been answered post #58

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Well ODM, unfortunately you have left out some critical information.  When you lowered the car so that the strut towers were level, did the tires touch the floor?  It's not clear if the tires are hanging or if if they have some weight on them.  And you didn't confirm that you rolled the car back and forth before measuring.  

 

Actually, you've never confirmed that you rolled the car back and forth before looking or measuring.  If you don't do this all of your measurements with tires on the ground are wasted

 

Post #69

23 + 4.75 = 27.75

23 + 5.75 + 28.75

 

From post #48

25 1/4 both sides with strut towers level

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