Engine only runs with starter fluid

[siteunseen]

Make sure he nozzles are moving freely. Choke cables could hinder that.

[hatepotholez]

On 3/14/2016 at 4:03 PM, Mark Maras said:

 Needing the choke when the engine is warm is a sure sign of a lean mixture. Inadequate fuel supply, wrong float setting, are a couple of the more obvious reasons. They may need the mixture adjustments opened up 1/4-1/2 turn more, however, the overflowing carb and the sticking piston have to corrected first.

 Does the piston stick at the bottom of it's stroke? If so, it is likely nozzle misalignment. When aligning the nozzles, adjust them to the top. That way when you drop the nozzle screws down 2 1/2 turns later, you'll have a little extra clearance to ensure the needles don't stick in the nozzles. 

 If the piston is sticking higher up, carefully inspect the damper and chamber for scratches and or dents. Not only is the piston supposed to drop but it should drop at the same rate as the other carb.

 The overflowing float bowl is likely caused by a defective float, float pivot or too much pressure. (You already replaced the needle and seat) One way or another the needle and seat are not closing the fuel off when the float raises.

 

Ok more progress.

 

I rechecked the rear float, it looks the pin was half way out. I carefully reinstalled the float and no more leak.

 

Now the front damper is a real pain. The damper drops perfectly into the nozzle, theirs a nice fast clunk so no issues there. The issue is the pot and the damper. I was using emory cloth on most of the areas and got it to be perfect in my hands, but when installed it would not drop at all and stick. Then I went at it again with emory cloth and WD40 and like an idiot I dropped the plunger and the pot on concrete. Now even though with the sanding the assembly goes up and down perfectly in my hand it does not when installed on the carb. 

When is the choke activated? When the handle is up or down? 

 

[hatepotholez]

On 3/14/2016 at 4:49 PM, siteunseen said:

Make sure he nozzles are moving freely. Choke cables could hinder that.

nozzles move pretty freely. Still not sure if I connected the choke cable correctly though. 

[siteunseen]

You should see where they were connected previously, it makes a little kink in the cable where the screw tightens down.

[siteunseen]

You need to loosen the screws on the dome, get the damper moving freely then tighten them down.  That little rubber blob that supposedly lines them up isn't even on mine.  Loosen the screws a little.

The choke is on when the handle is pulled back towards the rear of the car.  When the choke is on the nozzles drop down about an inch.

[Mark Maras]

    Oh yeah, I've dropped them too.  Now I place a rag with a small hole on the cowl and set the piston on it with the needle protruding thru the rag and into one of the cowl slots. The piston sits securely on the rag and the needle is protected from my clumsiness.

  To be sure the needle isn't the problem, blacken the needle with a Sharpie pen and slide the piston up and down. If there is contact, the black ink will be scraped off revealing the brass contact point. This will also work for locating interference between the piston and chamber.

 The choke is activated when the handle is pulled into the up position. At the carbs., the choke cables pull the fuel nozzles down. This temporarily boosts the amount of fuel in the mixture. Virtually the same action as dropping the nozzles down with the adjustment screws.

[hatepotholez]

Ok, so handle up and nozzles down. This would let in more fuel. got it!

I loosened the pot and it still doesn't drop down and get's stuck. I also rotated the pot and at certain positions the damper will go up and down slightly. 

Great idea. I will use a sharpie and see where it's hitting and try hitting the emory cloth in that area. 

for the needle does it have to be perfectly at 90 degrees? My needle is bent a little to the side but drops down into the nozzle fine. I have replacement needles, but I prefer not to change out the ones I have just jet.

 

Thanks guys!

[Mark Maras]

 If the needle isn't 90 degrees, I think it would rub the inside of the jet (nozzle).

[beermanpete]

It sounds like the shaft for the pot is bent a bit. Try swapping the pots between carbs. Maybe it will work better. At least if the problem moves with the pot or not you will know which component is actually at fault.

Have you inspected the bore the pot rides in? Perhaps there is a some debris in there or maybe it is not round or not straight. What type of measuring tools do you have to inspect such things?

[hatepotholez]

50 minutes ago, beermanpete said:

It sounds like the shaft for the pot is bent a bit. Try swapping the pots between carbs. Maybe it will work better. At least if the problem moves with the pot or not you will know which component is actually at fault.

Have you inspected the bore the pot rides in? Perhaps there is a some debris in there or maybe it is not round or not straight. What type of measuring tools do you have to inspect such things?

I believe we might have something at my job to measure the bore. Something is bent or there is a nick somewhere binding when the pot and damper are installed. 

I cleaned out the bore, I ran a papertowel soaked in carb cleaner through it and then cleaned it all off with carb cleaner. When its all installed this is when I have the sticking issue. It was bad and then got worse after it fell. 

[Mark Maras]

  Have you tried beermanpete's advice about swapping pots (and pistons) between carbs? You'll be able to tell which part is bent, Piston or pot. IMO I'd start looking for replacement part(s) ASAP. I doubt if it's worth the time and money to try to straighten it. Whatever "it" is.

[Stanley]

Are the carbs 4-screws ? The early carbs have a much different procedure for aligning the nozzles. I can't explain it because I have 3-screws with a fixed lateral location for the nozzles, so I never bothered to learn it. The ZTherapy video explains it in detail, though. Also, it should be in the '71 FSM.