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Steering Rack Disassembly and Refurb


Captain Obvious

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  • 1 year later...

Great thread, addresses most of what I'm doing.  However, one thing not mentioned is how should the tie-rod end fit in it's socket?   Mine are pretty stiff and feels like there may be some flat spots inside.  Has anyone taken them apart?  The grease seems OK, not all stiff and old.  Should they move freely or is stiff OK?

 

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Edited by BDJeff
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Also, there is a hole it the right side of the rack.  Is it for a zerk fitting that's fallen out?  It doesn't seem to have any threads but I'm still cleaning it out.  Is it a "reservoir" item #25 here and if so, does anybody have a picture of what it looks like?

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Steering/SteeringGear/tabid/1746/Default.aspx

 

 

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  • 1 year later...
On 10/8/2017 at 5:41 PM, Captain Obvious said:

Here's a pic of the whole rack exploded. Only thing you can't see is the lower pinion bearing. I pulled it out, cleaned it, and put it back in before I thought to take this shot. And I wasn't going to pull it again just for the camera:
rack29.JPG

Left end parts:
rack30.JPG

Right end parts:
rack31.JPG

Amazing thanks for sharing !!! 

How much grease do you add when assembling the inner tie rod back together ? any pictures of that 🙂 
 

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  • 6 months later...

Got a rack with a worn short bushing, then started searching.... 

Found this thread, the size needed. Thanks Mike W.

I'm going to buy a few of these and turn the OD ID to the right number.

ID = 24.98, these are 25mm.  

OD = 28.55, these are 30mm.  

Got the 50mm length so I have something to chuck up. Or up chuck.....

What do you think?  Guess it depends on if I'm happy with the ID fit. Got to better than the sloppy noodle I have now

image.png

Edited by zKars
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My thoughts (for what they're worth):

There are those that say machining the sintered oil impregnated stuff can be problematic. Unless you do it right, you can "smear" some of the material and close off the oil holes. That said, if you're only machining the OD, then that shouldn't matter. Also, SAE 841 is softer than the traditional "bearing bronze (932 or 660 leaded)". It's probably going to be softer than the original bushing, but for the steering rack application, it's probably good enough. 

As for the second choice from McMaster, I like that it's made from 932, and I like the oil groove. But if you cut 20mm off, you'll be cutting right through the middle of the oil groove. Now since we're using thixotropic grease and not oil... Does it really matter?

And as you mentioned... I think a lot of this will all come down to how you like the fit on the ID.

Good luck with the lathe work and keep us posted!!

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well an interesting little something showed up in the mail today.

This is neither of the above mentioned possible sources for raw materials. This is a real Nissan part. What I did was search for the part number of the right hand longer bushing (48128-78500), rather than the number for the shorter left side that always wears out.

Easy to make something shorter…..

I got one, let me see how many more are actually available before I reveal my source No sense gets hopes up too high.

5CAADF56-50B2-444D-94B3-F5D12AC9C47D.jpeg

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Looking at the burrs and shiny spots on the end of the shell... Do you think they already cut down the length of a longer bushing?

I also find it interesting that there's a mark on the outside diameter that reflects the location of the lube groove on the inside. I'm guessing that thing was cast bronze and the groove was cast in and not machined in?

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