Gas Tank Rust

[Mikes Z car]

I couldn't get the filler tube off the tank of my 1970 car this summer either, eventually it fell off with my wrestling with the tank in violation of murphy's law. Learning from retrospect I wonder if I had heated the part of the filler tube that is on the tank with a hair dryer or heat gun would have helped? I noticed when I heated my filler hose with a heat gun at the top where the gas goes in so I could push it through that area that it went from rock hard (probably was the original filler hose) to extremely pliable. I did get carried away and managed to push a hole in it with a screwdriver but the hose was being replaced anyway.

Edited October 27, 2012 by Mikes Z car

[djwarner]

There are three vent lines coming from the tank to the vapor recovery tank. Two in the rear and one in the front of the tank. If you remove the rear trim panel and right rear trim panel in the hatch area, you can trace them to the recovery tank as well as get a good view of the filler tube.

Sorry, can't help you on removing the filler tube.i

[bhermes]

I did remove the screws holding the tube to the car but will the tank drop with the tube still in place? Do I need to remove the small tube up where the gas goes in that comes off of the side of the filler tube?

I will check into the hair dryer.

[bhermes]

Seems that I have at least one more line to remove on the back side of the tank. Also a line from the filler tube and the tank may drop. Not sure but will know soon.

Thanks.

[Powderkeg]

Search in the "Tech Pub & How to Articles" for: "Treating inside/outside of gas tank with POR15 products

and removing evaporation tank". Written by Dogma420 on 10-8-12.

Also when you install the tank, attach the fuel filler tube to the tank then feed it through the filler hole.

[bhermes]

Thanks.

Just a quick summary;

- removed 4 screws holding filler tube to car

- removed 4 screws holding protective cover in wheel well area

- removed 2 lines from front side of tank

- removed back and right side panel inside hatch area

- removed metal cover under right side panel

- removed screws holding expansion tank

- removed 4 hoses to expansion tank

- removed expansion tank

- unscrewed both tank straps

- removed filler tube

I have two tubes on the back side of the tank and I think that will be all for disassembly. I am having trouble getting to these two tubes but one way or the other they will come off. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for all the guidance. Not sure if I will reinstall expansion tank or not. Also I have not decided if I am going to have the tank baked. My local shop wants way to much ($500).

[siteunseen]

Try it yourself first. Muratic acid then baking soda works great. $20

[bhermes]

Tank is down.

- 2 tubes on back of tank off

- Sending unit disconnected

Can you give me a little more guidance on the Muratic acid. How much, swirl tank around, how long, how much baking soda, etc. Then would I use the POR15 and how long should I wait after acid treatment.

Anythng I need to worry about with this?

Also, I have noticed some good photos of the inside of tanks, how are these taken?

Thanks.

[bhermes]

Found the post on the details of using the muratic acid. I think I will give that a try. I have seen POR15 and Red- Kote. Is one better than the other?

[siteunseen]

I used red kote because of the price difference, $20 qt. at O'Reilly's or off ebay, I've put about 1,000 miles on mine since doing all the work and the glass filter I have right before the fuel rail has never had the slightest bit of color as in pink or reddish looking fuel in it and I check it every time I drive the car. I'm happy with what I did and I'd never done anything like that before. Get some 5 gallon buckets for the acid/water mixing and go ahead and mix the soda/water for neutralizing the acid once you empty it out. I hung my tank from a tree limb with nylon straps for draining and drying. Drain the acid in another bucket and pour it on any ant beds in your yard, it kills the sh*t out of them. It will take about 2 hours if you take your time. Plan everything out ahead of time and wear rubber gloves and something over your mouth and eyes because of the fumes from the acid. A leaf blower works good in the fill hole for drying. Red Kote has directions you could read online before deciding what you want to use. I took pictures through the fill hole and the sending unit hole with a flashlight in one hole and camera in the other. I over thought it when I did mine, don't make that mistake, it's not hard you just need everything ready before you start. And like Bonzi Lon says the longer you can let it cure the better, mine wasn't needed for a month so it sat with all the holes open for air flow. Read all you can before you do it. Motorcycle people use muratic acid all the time. Thumper Talk has lot's of info.

[Bonzi Lon]

Save some of the acid in properly marked sealed plastic bottles for future use on rusty small parts, nuts, bolts, screws, washers etc...

A motorcycle guy told me about 'Kreem", he used it plenty of times on small tanks. I had to use 2 kits. I hadn't learned about POR15 at that time. It was 'well cured' after 2 years on the wall.

Bonzi Lon

[bhermes]

So I plan on doing the following;

- using muratic acid

- using baking soda

- using red-kote

I will porbably wait a week between the baking soda and the red-kote and another week or so before installing. Should I wait longer prior to adding gas. This car is pretty much a daily driver or at least has been.

My question is what did you do prior to all of this. Did you spray inside with water? Just curious how critical it is to get all of the flaking rust out prior to using the muratic acid.

Also, read something about clogging up pick up line? Any issues here?

Will start this on Tuesday. Already have the acid and baking soda from pool. Need to get red-kote.