On 7/14/2026 at 10:36 PM, Yarb said:

What is the afr reading?

I dont have an Air Fuel Ratio sensor. Its a pitty i cant give you this measurement. Should i purchase one at amazon or temu?

On 7/14/2026 at 10:36 PM, Yarb said:

What is the afr reading?

AEM is available on Amz

2 hours ago, Yarb said:

AEM is available on Amz

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?adgrpid=195002650221&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BGDnxtkrFlymFKt6LdgYHXlCWBQO6svdYaZMy7AewE5dczQz1dbVLKf_IIhRdSUtjnZAiREL1Gr_VNTlCRQA-3TgWmy79llkf8JKKRT5qFtLWxgXbhVy2OOGgG0U8Pi9Lkjf0DZLYkr56Zx5AYUjLerfE99fSn5WSaEIlKO-XY_FveGcwj6lEsjhb_etVED2V6gnThn3BZBpkdh_P6lglw.CMWvF5AhBcE2FoeF3IEWneRPt2fjU2R1JMsMe9me0eg&dib_tag=se&hvadid=816766390493&hvdev=m&hvexpln=68&hvlocphy=9197805&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=1666668972456197497--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1666668972456197497&hvtargid=kwd-324935622908&hydadcr=277_1015455199&keywords=aem+air+fuel+ratio+gauge&mcid=b92e3573364d36deaeaeb7758fbb087a&qid=1784241977&sr=8-1

Quite expensive just to have a measurement! Will this reading help in any way?

AEM 30-0300

After reading the same problem with other users im beginning to accept this could be vapor lock as it only happens during heavy traffic and disappears once the temp goes down. Would a 4 row radiator kill this problem or should i get a ceramic manifold?

I went with the 6 to 1 ceramic coated headers and ran 2.5 inch exhaust the resto of the way out. I think this helped a bunch to channel heat away from the intake manifold! Used a Magnaflow 10426 in the tunnel for a resonator and a Magnaflow 13216 for the final muffler. Had an exhaust shop build the exhaust from the headers out with a chrome angled tip at the end. See attached pictures for the exhaust from the headers out.

I watched an episode of Engine Masters that focused on heat shields. I was amazed to find out that the single-layer (aluminum) shields were hotter on the side away from the headers. The side facing the headers was cooler. The only heat shields they found that were effective were made of sandwiched materials. Engine Masters also did an episode on cooling headers. Ceramic coating won the lower temperature contest.

23 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

I watched an episode of Engine Masters that focused on heat shields. I was amazed to find out that the single-layer (aluminum) shields were hotter on the side away from the headers. The side facing the headers was cooler. The only heat shields they found that were effective were made of sandwiched materials. Engine Masters also did an episode on cooling headers. Ceramic coating won the lower temperature contest.

So im stuck with this problem! Car will never run good after hitting a 15 mins traffic jam. Im not spending more money on camaro or porsche mechanics. You guys are the only ones that may help.

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not.

1 minute ago, kully 560 said:

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not. also, my temp gauge needle is on the left side of the m in temp. and just before the fan turns on it is on the right side of the m.

8 minutes ago, kully 560 said:

  13 minutes ago, kully 560 said:

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not. also, my temp gauge needle is on the left side of the m in temp. and just before the fan turns on it is on the right side of the m. another thought you can try to upload the pictures of your plugs to AI and tell AI what you motor is. it will tell you your engine timing on the ground strap and porcelain color for rich vs lean. AI seems to be pretty knowledgeable on the l series engine. may not be perfect but is could be a great start. ask it why you are running that hot also.

2 hours ago, kully 560 said:

  2 hours ago, kully 560 said:

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not. also, my temp gauge needle is on the left side of the m in temp. and just before the fan turns on it is on the right side of the m.

2 hours ago, kully 560 said:

  2 hours ago, kully 560 said:

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not. also, my temp gauge needle is on the left side of the m in temp. and just before the fan turns on it is on the right side of the m.

2 hours ago, kully 560 said:

I would get a little more of a rough idle when sitting at a traffic light that is very long on days that are in the mid 90s. I run a zx dissy with 34 degrees all in, msd6al, and blaster 2 coil. I closed the gap on my plugs from 44-38, and the motor seems to like it better and smoother idle. I think the su carbs like the smaller gap but that is not going to help with your temp. I do run an electric fan on the 4-row aluminum radiator, and I have an adjustable fan switch that turns on at 183 degrees and shuts off at 178 degrees, that is with a 180-degree thermostat. my fuel lines are not insulated, and I have a ceramic header, but I think I might be getting a little fuel percolation at idle for an overly long traffic light. I can feel the engine a little more on those hot days with the longer idle but not bad at all. and my idle rpms never drop like yours. I might insulate the fuel rails in the future, but I really do not drive the car in 95 degrees anyway.so my fuel rails are plated and they do look nice, but it's hard to cover them up. I did not read all 16 pages on this thread, but I do no Nissan insulated the fuel lines on my 260z way back then for the fuel percolation problems with the hot temps. also I don't know if you are running lean or not.

Just came back from some light traffic. Still at 3/4 on the temp gauge but no bubbles in the clear fuel filter. Took the plugs out and see everything normal. Maybe a 4 row radiator could help. Do you concur?