Fuel Injection
Posts about fuel injection systems and related topics.
748 topics in this forum
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One of my off season projects for this year was to replace my sketchy looking intake duct tube between the AFM and the throttle body. I couldn't see any cracks all the way through, but it's just a matter of time. I know there are aftermarket repros available, but I've always kept my eyes open for other cars that had air intake tract hoses that looked similar to the 280Z. With that in mind, and my never ending quest to find cheap ubiquitous replacements for OEM parts, I nabbed this on off a 2002 Ford Taurus: Here it is compared to the stock connector. The angle is almost perfect, but there are some issues. First, it's a little too long and second, the big end (AF…
Last reply by 240260280, -
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Back again...as stated in my other posts, got the z running again...haven't had much time to evaluate further but need advice on some obvious issues: 1) Correct FPR...have read much on site and it seem that the 78 should have an FPR with one outlet and not two as mine has... Currently blocked of is the side toward the radiator. Should I replace this? are correct ones available? is the "blocked off" option dangerous? 2) Fusible links...mine are broken and covered with duct tape (PO). Are these available...need bracket too? 3) High idle...Steps to check 1,2,3 etc
Last reply by zeenubee, -
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Still trying to get this 78 running...old mechanic working on it for me ( I know very little)...have drained tank, PO seems to have cleaned it; new fuel pump (walpro); gaslines blown out; fuel pressure tested at filter(new) at about 45#; he says he checked and cleaned(?) all electrical connections; new fuel injectors (ebay) and seals; AFM cleaned. Now he says he checked the TPS, cleaned contacts and it runs "better" but not like it should...aftermarket TPS seems to be only available now thru the zcar place in Ariz at $125.+ Any suggestions before I throw more parts at this thing?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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My tank was super rusty, with rusty fuel pouring out of my under hood filter when I pulled the hose off. So, Pulled the tank. Local radiator shop (the only one that would hot tank fuel tanks wanted $485 to clean and seal with over a month turn around time). So, I set out to clean it myself. Tried a few methods and here are my results: shook out 10 pounds of dirt consistency rusty crap and rust flakes out of it. Used electrolysis for 2 days, changing out the sacrificial steel and soda solution several times. Some, but not great results. Next, swished about a gallon of 1:4 muriatic acid:water a few times, then let it sit over night full at same ratio. It was looking pretty …
Last reply by dhp123166, -
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Chock another FI problem to corroded wires. 1975 280z new to me. Got it running after new injectors and rehabbed fuel tank. It ran well until it warmed up then would sputter and eventually fail to start. Would start when cooled off but eventually it wouldn't do that either. Plugs were drenched in fuel. If I pulled the PCV hose off air intake hose it would run but not well. I blocked fuel line to cold start valve but no change. Next pulled connector to coolant temp sensor and snapped it back on, no change. Then traced wires back to the 2 bullet connectors, pulled apart, shorted them to each other and voila, it started, albeit it popped and stumbled until warmed up. I figur…
Last reply by Roblaw, -
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Hi guys, My '78 has the weber "big throat" throttlebody on it but with the (I believe) stock AFM. Would upgrading to a larger AFM noticeably improve throttle response considering the larger throttlebody or is that just a lot of fiddling for marginal gain? (yes I saw the atlanticZ page) If there really is noticeable gain to be had with going to a larger AFM with my larger throttlebody, do you folks recommend the 280zx turbo or cressida AFM? I've been doing a lot of reading on them but couldn't find a stern verdict. Any ideas? -chase
Last reply by chaseincats, -
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Progress continues slowly on this resurrection project. Acquired the car a few years back. Had not been registered since 1996 and the storage years were not very friendly to this amazingly 100% complete and original car. Being over 40 years old and badly sitting for some 20 years, the fuel system needs a total restoration. I am cleaning up the fuel rail-bit of surface rust in areas- and will be painting it with hi temp engine spray, primer and top coat. I am assuming the fuel pressure regulator is bad, and know all the injectors are bad. Am I better off to just replace the pressure regulator with the OEM factory style, or upgrade to an adjustable unit with a gauge? …
Last reply by Yarb, -
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My 73 Z won't start. Turns over and starts with a few squirts of starter fluid then dies unless I keep squirting it in. Assumption is that it's not getting gas. I changed out the fuel filter and no difference. Plenty of gas in the tank. The engine was rebuilt a few years ago and the carbs all redone by Z therapy. Ran beautiful for the last few years (only about 500 miles put on it.) It would start right up. Since the rest is all original components I assume I have just the mechanical fuel pump in the front passenger side of the engine which I believe a new one was put on after the engine rebuild. How can I test it to see if that's the problem? If I take the line o…
Last reply by colinc, -
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Got this strange chiming noise coming from the intake manifold but it only appears after the engine has reached operating temperature. Its only present at idle or when I get off the throttle, once I give a little throttle the noise disappears. Adjusting the idle screw up or down does not make any difference. It does not affect the performance as far as I can tell. So I been thinking that it is vacuum related but have been struggeling with this now for a while without being able to figure ot out. Have done the egr delete, blocked off all parts of itand blocked off the line going to the throttle chamber. I've attached a video, the annoying sound is easy to hear from a…
Last reply by HSL, -
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The hose on the first fuel injector has cracked open. How exactly do I go about replacing it? Do I have to replace the whole injector or can I just put a new hose on? Is it possible to loosen up the fuel rail enough to lift it up to get the hose in place or will I have to pull the whole rail off to do it? If I can just replace the hose what type of hose exactly is needed and what size and diameter is it? Thank you!
Last reply by Yarb, -
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Ok, My basic problem is my 75 280z will not start. A couple of months ago I had a similar problem, but fixed the issue by replacing the fuel pump. Through out the summer is was hot and not a problem starting the car. First crank and the engine started right up. The first cooler day, below 95 F and the car will not start. The fuel pressure is 40 psi when cranking and 34 psi when running, when car is running the vacuum is 18 mHg, I can get the car started by actuating the cold start injector.This pumps in a small amount of fuel and the car starts right up. I did go through all the measurements in the FI manual and discovered that there wa…
Last reply by superlen, -
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Hello all!! As some will remember, I was working on a drop in replacement ECU for our Z's & had to take a hiatus when my daughter was born. This week she started kindergarten (my how time flies when you have young ones underfoot). Last month I began un-mothballing the project and gearing up to finish. Apologies of course for the delay, but rest assured I haven't forgot about this. The status when I paused was this: 1 - The prototype board came up nicely and I was driving my car around using 100% stock L-Jet components (save for the HellFire ECU of course)....poorly tuned at best & no enrichment code was in place which caused some stumbling when I fl…
Last reply by 240260280,
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