Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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Silly question... I'm quite new to ignitions in general, but I'm swapping my coil because it quite literally melted(due to stripped wire grounding I found recently). The car's a 260 with an l28 swap from a 280zx and it has an MSD blaster 2 that i'm replacing. So, now to the question. Is the capacitor that's currently connected to the coil really nescessary any more since its no longer running a points based dizzy?
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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I have a 76 280 (7/76)and just aquired a set of used tail lights for it. My car has the small harness connectors and the new lights have the large connectors. What years were different and what is my best option? Thanks in advance.
Last reply by pegasus76, -
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ok well when I upgraded my alt to one from a 83 zxt and my amp gauge has been acting strange. so I picked up a 76 280 volt gauge and am going to do the swap next week. I wanted to know any info from anyone has done this swap that would make things easier for me. I know I will need to put new connections on the wires I just need to figure what wires need to go to each other and if I will need to run a extra wire out to the battery for voltage sense. thanks in advance
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I want to install a higher amperage alternator in my 1973 240z. I am planning on getting a 105amp GM 3 wire internally regulated alternator. I know that the factory harness cannot handle the extra amps. Would it work if I connected the factory harness wire that is currently connected to "a" on the factory alternator to the battery charging terminal to the new alternator and add a wire from the charging post of the new alt. straight to the battery? Where would the factory wire connected to "e" on the fact. alternator go? And do I just insulate the F and N wires?
Last reply by FastWoman, -
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i've noticed a strange phenomenon since starting to drive my 280 regularly over the last few weeks. it only seems to happen when i'm in my parking garage, although it did happen once in my driveway. when i'm pulling away from a stop and going under 5 mph, and start pushing on the accelerator, occasionally it makes the horn beep. i have no idea where to even start with this. it did not do this before i took it to my body shop. they removed the horns to paint the front end, and they said they did a little wiring work on the headlights, but i don't think they've touched any other part of the electrical system. thoughts? on an unrelated note, my gas gauge drops and rises in …
Last reply by saridout, -
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i am wanting to replace both of my headlights with halogen..is this ok for a 78 280z? i just wanted to know if there where any wiring issues.. z currently has sealed beams.. thanks for any help..
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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Installed it last week and replaced the belt also. I am noticing a little humm to it that I didn't notice i'n the old one. Is this common? May just be my mind playing tricks on me
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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I am installing the pertronics setup with the flamethrower 3.0ohm coil. This setup tells me to not use the balist resistor. my question is where do the 2 wires going to the ballist restisto go in the new setup? I assume the go to the 2 extra spots on the coil but just want to double check...thanks in advance
Last reply by KAL7467, -
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traced problem as far as ignition switch. Jumpered 12v to ignition switch, the results were - relays working, starter motor running ok, fuseable link ok, thermo switch wire attached ok. Ignition switch will not turn off with it jumpered to 12v. checking continuity to ground from igniton today and ignition relay.There must be a fuse out from the ignition switch to its 12v source? Where is the fuse? The ignition relay may be stuck open? Should the (-) side of the coil be grounded? The coil wiring checks out ok from the ignition module, all connections are good. Battery good Battery ground good (new) Battery hot wire good. Ground wire from distributor good. Ignition module …
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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ok I am installing a pertronics kit to replace the points in the distributor along with a flamethrower coil(the 3.0 ohm one) ...now in posts I have read some people say they leave the ballast resistor in place and others say it is best to take it out. I am aware the system may mess with my tach a bit but how accurate is a 40 year old tach anyway ...but what is the real deal on the resistor? In case it matters I replaced my alternator with a 60amp one that was supposed to go in a 280zx and made my own little plug with diode to go on the voltage regulator plug...other than that I have not changed anything else in my electrical system...any input would be greatly apreciated …
Last reply by Inf, -
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I have plugged Vintage Connections in other threads. I just to have a thread so people might find it in a search. Del is a stand-up guy, and he has great products for anybody who is considering doing any electrical work on his/her classic Z. I went whole-hog a few months back and bought a bunch of connectors and lugs from Del. Tonight, I was driving my 260Z home from work and realized that I didn't have any running lights. OOPS! I can't say I hadn't been warned earlier in the day when I picked up the car from Eddie Radatz. (Yes, that was another shameless plug.) When I made it home, I took apart the steering column and replaced the 9 pin plug on the wiring harness. It's s…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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I bought a car that has painted light covers on the front and PAII halogens mounted on the front bumper. pulled the painted light covers and found just the housing. No wires or connectors or anything....I did find some wires that were cut and capped, just not sure if they were for the headlights (see pic). Since there is numerous posts about light conversions and wire harness upgrades I am looking for the best route to get upgraded. 74 260Z early 12/73
Last reply by ajmcforester,
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