Electrical
Anything about the electrical system on a Zcar.
3,434 topics in this forum
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Sounds like I will be the source of amusement tonight for some of you. Decided to tackle why my dome light was not working. First made sure the switches at the doors were pushing in and out. Sprayed some deoxit in there and they freed up pretty nice and looked shiny. Next went to the dome light and measured voltage. I saw I was getting 12V between both terminals at the light bulb so I thought that was odd. I then measured voltage and then pushed in the door switches. Volts dropped to zero like I had hoped they would. Ok, so this made my brain all fuzzy why the bulb was getting 12V, but wouldn't turn on. Bought new bulb. Still didn't work. Then... 💡went off in m…
Last reply by SteveJ, -
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- 10 replies
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I have a new issue developing on my 1977 280z coupe. I am running a 280zx internally regulated alternator that is about 7 months old, as has been functioning properly. Anyways, the other week I got in the car and noticed my voltmeter on the dash was not working. I tracked it to a blown fuse on the passenger kickpanel, so I replaced it. I then started to notice the voltmeter would bobble slightly at idle which was odd. Today I came out to the car and noticed the voltmeter was not working again. I immidietly checked the fuse and it was fine. So I turned the key to the on position and the voltmeter would bobble a little, but it still was showing 0V. I started …
Last reply by ckurtz2, -
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I know there have been a lot of topics on this but most of them are old so I thought I would start a new one to explain what’s going on and to see if there are any new ideas/solutions. I installed a Pertronix Ignitor II with a Flamethrower II (0.6 Ohm) coil. According to Pertronix, this is a matched pair. The car (1971 240z) has and continues to great with this setup. The issue I’m having is with the tach. When I first installed this Pertronix set, I had an issue with the tach not going above 3000 rpm. The car has no issue revving well above that, but the tach would stop at 3000 rpm and sometimes would even start going backwards. I talked wit…
Last reply by Zed Head, -
While trying to determine a short inside the dashboard one of the leds i had installed failed. Can anyone tell me if this BA9S will work in my datsun 240z? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C2SHTZ6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AY0MC7HQ2EF6B&th=1 Thanks for your response.
Last reply by Patcon, -
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Hi all - Wondering if anyone knows where the fuel pump ground wire terminates in the car. The pump has two wires going into the wiring loom but the service manual says one of them terminates directly to a ground. Any idea where that hides on a 1978?
Last reply by Zed Head, -
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It might be handy to have a few of these on hand in case you need a fuse and don't have the correct glass fuse on hand. It will also be handy to use with a fuse buddy to track down issues with popping fuses. https://www.thingsnotable.com/
Last reply by zKars, -
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I have a box full of dash harnesses that I picked up a while ago, hoping for some 240Z treasures. Not to be! These are free for the cost of shipping via USPS Large Flat Rate boxes. Most, but not all, are unmolested. PM me if there is something of interest. 24013-N3600 '74 2+2 24013-N3601 '74 2+2 24023-N3600 '74 2+2, CONSOLE, 3 UNITS 24013-N4202 '75, 2 UNITS 24013-N4700 '77
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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I'm working on a combo light switch dated 0Y (Nov. 1970) and came across some design deficiencies, one of which I posted about previously: The plastic stalk is indexed to the frame with an extended tab prone to breaking as it did on this one. Fortunately, the broken tab was retained in the boot. I took a shot of the frame compared with an April '71 switch where the design flaw was corrected. With the repair completed it was ready to be reassembled: The early design also had wiring deficiencies with light gauge wires, pictured on the left with the April '71 on the right: Here are the switch internal contact bridges with the remains of a mel…
Last reply by jfa.series1, -
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Hello. I wanted to upgrade my original alternator, so I purchased a 60A alternator from a 280zx and installed it. I cut off the connector on the external voltage regulator and jumped the two pins like the following diagram that I found (yes, I have made sure, multiple times, that the diode is in the correct direction). The issue that I'm having is that when the alternator is connected, it drains the battery when the car is off. If I connect the alternator and then hook a multimeter to the battery, it drains .01V every 2-3 seconds... and eventually completely depletes the battery. If I unplug the jumped connector (or if I unplug the two ping S/L conne…
Last reply by Dave WM, -
The dashboard instrument lights, parking lights and tail lights on my 72 240z were shut down when I turned the combo switch on. I noticed that the 15 amp fuse inside the fuse holder in the Parking light harness kit went south. Replaced it with another 15 amp and keeps blowing the fuse? I really don’t use this car that much just on Sundays for an hour or two. https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/product-info/ How would you approach the repair systematically without removing the steering wheel column cover to access the female and male 6 wire connectors? Where would you check first? Looking to hearing from you shortly. Regards,
Last reply by jalexquijano, -
- 4 followers
- 3 replies
- 626 views
I'm relaxing at home when I got a call from a number I didn't recognize. Since the caller left a voicemail, I played it. He told me he got my number from a friend. He has a 78 that he drove to the gas station, and it wouldn't "catch". He said another friend worked on the car, but that friend wasn't available. I called him back and found out that the engine would turn but wouldn't fire. Knowing that the friend who worked on the car is a very good Z wrench, I knew I had to run through possible esoteric solutions. "Beat on the ECU." "What?" "Hit the ECU with the side of your fist. Just bang on it a couple of times. Then try to start your car." "Wher…
Last reply by 26th-Z, -
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I've been poking around with the ignition electronics on and off and there seems to be some interest in getting into some of the details of how things work. So here's a place to start. Here's a pic of the ignition module signals. The input signal from the VR distributor is in blue, and the output signal that drives the coil is in yellow. Note that when the yellow output signal is low, the coil is charging (dwell), and when that output signal goes high, the coil would fire a spark. Spinning the distributor (by hand) the signals look like this: First think to note is that the ignition module (1977 style) fires the coil on the negative-to-positive (N-P) tra…
Last reply by Zed Head,
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