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  2. Looks like you're all sorted but here are some pictures as well.
  3. Today
  4. Radiant

    Radiant

  5. The last remnant of the original colour code 240 on my car next to the new British Racing Green.
  6. I went out to the car and checked. You are exactly right! All the comments are helpful, but this is (I think) the root cause. The rest is tuning.
  7. Cool! Any idea when so I can find it?
  8. Yeah, I did that, too. Stuff flew all over the place. Luckily I had it pointing away from me.
  9. Hi Mike, Sorry, they have been sold. I thought I had posted so. My apologies. Best, Bob
  10. I think that the tabs for the screw are wrong on the left side. The one closest to the carb should be on the bottom.
  11. There are some more pictures in my build thread too if CO is missing some
  12. Okay, looks like I have the right parts, so I bought the SKF stuff. Now I’m disassembling the rack per the Cap’n’s write up: Just need to figure out if these old inner TREs are rebuildable/reusable.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Are these wheels still for sale? Thanks, Mike
  15. Thanks sooo much 240260280!!!!!! First I clicked on "reputation activity", and there were no pictures under "gallery". Then I clicked on "see their activity" and there were my pictures. Never would have found it without help. Thanks again.
  16. Yes, while I wasn't bothered by it, I was idling at at 3,000 RPM. Not a problem on a well-worn engine. Thanks to all. Lot's of information to process. I do wish someone had produced a manual with this information. I guess I should not have forgotten how it was put together in the first place!
  17. Just heard about this guy, https://datsunrestomods.com/collections/all
  18. You could always try to hot wire the car to eliminate the switch as a problem
  19. Thanks all for the replies, some good info in the thread that I didnt know. Update: The hiss was from the new IAC I installed to communicate with the new ECU. Vacuum system was sealed and good to roll. The vacuum source I had hooked to the MAP sensor was too weak to register with the new ecu (notice in the pic above it's pegged at 100). A speed shop noticed this and hooked it up to the brake booster instead. I toned the accel fuel dump way down (was AFR was way too rich) they did some config on the injectors and boom. Car is running solid and now a good daily driver w 50k original miles!
  20. I am not sure about your insulator, it looks like it is in upside down. Here is a picture of how mine sits. Here are some pics of the firewall connections for the throttle as well, You asked for those too. I hope that helps.
  21. Not quite. The base colour is pour and spray. Shorter shelf life. And I get it from my local Body Shop supply store who mixes it while I wait. The clear coat is still a two part catalyzed finish for hardness and durability. No baking for either but I do have a special paint dryer gun for the water based paint to help evaporate the water transmission content. The water is only there to deliver the paint solubles. Once it evaporates, all that is left is the paint. Thanks for the compliments on the paint. I'm loving it.
  22. Whoa, so you get a single can from PPG, and you just pour it in the spray gun and spray? Same for the clear, just pour the can in and spray?? Seems easy... Does it need to be baked to cure etc?? paint is coming out looking great btw
  23. I second this. This vacuum line only receives vacuum when the throttle pedal is pressed. If you are hearing a hiss (vacuum leak) only when the throttle is pressed then it should be this port. If the vacuum line is indeed connected to the bottom of the throttlebody then it might be the distributor's vacuum advance pod's vacuum bladder is dead (this was the problem with my car. Cap off the vacuum port on the throttlebody and see if that changes anything (if thats the problem, that will be all you need to do to fix this).
  24. October 22, 1969 NYC International Preview at the Pierre Hotel. No photos yet. Also on same day, Nissan Motor Corporation issued the press release below:
  25. Arrival of 3 promotion cars in USA: Date unknown but Pre-Oct 22, 1969 HLS30-00006 (green) (became Bob Sharp's 33) HLS30-00007 (red) HLS30-00008 (silver) These cars were used in the USA for promotional photos and car shows. #6 was damaged in Jan 1970 and given to Sharp. Thanks to @26th-Z for the photo of #6 at the Boston Auto Show in 1969. #7 in 1969 #8 in 1969
  26. All I can add is a picture of my early '72's set. Hope it helps in some way or another. If your using a phone you can "blow it up" pretty easy. If you need a specific area let me know and I'll get it asap.
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