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  2. I owe @S30Driver and @siteunseen an apology! Even though me and my friend didn't touch those two connections, one of them came loose and fell off somehow! When plugging it back in I notice the connection is a little lose so I crimped it a little to help hold it in better! Thank you so much to everyone for the help. After plugging the wire back in I was also able to adjust the idle after plugging the wire back on. Drove the car for 10 minutes with no signs of hesitation or bogging even with the tps connected! And I also no longer have to keep adjusting my idle by the looks of things. As a matter of fact the car feels so much faster than before! I really wanted to get this car running asap because she is going to see some autocross action for the first time in 3 weeks. Here's a video of it running after plugging in the connector. It was running lean before I did all the work then started running very rich after at least what my spark plugs indicated! I always put tape on my spark plug wires and number them before taking them off, just a habit I got into.
  3. Today
  4. Are you sure you got your wires back on the same way they came off? It sounds rough. 1-5-3-6-2-4 counterclockwise. These engines will run with bad firing order and missing cylinders but they won't have much power. In your second video it looks like the AFM vane is moving okay. That weight is connected to the vane. If it moves the vane is moving.
  5. To me it sounds like it’s running rich if it was lean it would be backfiring out the intake from my understanding. Did you mess with the distributor timing at all? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I was going to check and readjust the valves sometime this week when I get the chance. Not sure how fuel can be the issue out of nowhere especially after a fresh fuel filter. I am trying to get my hands on a fuel pressure gauge hopefully the end of the week. And I plan on posting all the numbers most likely Friday or Saturday when I get more time to work on the car and I will list the numbers to each pin. The car was completely stock prior to my issues (besides unclogging the temp housing line). Deleting the vacuum lines didn't change anything. The part of the car that got removed really was the cold start lines which isn't necessary for me living in LA and the temp housing vacuum line (which once again was clogged before and car ran fine). If you believe it really makes a difference though I will put everything back on. Lol no shop rags missing but I will check into the AFM more when I get a chance. I really want to avoid touching the AFM though. I have tried looking for vacuum leaks in the general afm area and all over the intake but I used the carb cleaner trick (not sure how effective it is). I will give your option a try and see what I can get. Me and my friend never removed these wires only the connectors to the sensors themselves
  7. @Marty Rogan thanks for the recommendation! I am on Chicago's Northside, but gave a wide range because I am always willing to travel for good work.
  8. Hey Chris, Did you finish that garage yet??
  9. The shaft screws are normally staked. It looks like someone got a little carried away staking that one. the shafts bend easily...
  10. One of the problems with old SUs is the butterfly shaft bushings get worn and leak. Z therapy replaces them with roller bearings instead of brass bushings. Good luck though and post up your journey.
  11. I'm sure Saint Matsuo is chuckling over this thread 🙂 Summer of 69
  12. Yesterday
  13. They buy carbs? I think i'll purchase the parts I need for the "rebuilt" carb and put it back together. Then throw it back in the car. Then maybe I'll rebuild and clean up the old pair that I have.
  14. Do it in a DATSUN? Done it in a DATSUN!
  15. This may be of some help. I've never seen that before myself. Here's a bunch of threads on those shafts...
  16. Any chance I could convince you to take pictures of all of the unique collar types with calipers between the ears and the bearing mating surface? I’m planning on writing a Pulitzer Prize winning novella on my saga and it would be nice to have some good pictures to go along.
  17. After reading (most of - well,, part of) this thread, I'm really glad that I've hoarded a bunch of collars. I'm no good at measuring the whole clutch package so I just stick the transmission up temporarily get the slave on and check the throw. If the slave push rod is jammed tight, too long. If I can push the fork and rod back into the slave, too short. If there's only a slight amount of push back into the slave (about 1/4" or less), it's just right.
  18. I think I found the problem. Butterfly had ZERO play and the shaft holding it looks bent...
  19. +1 - Don't over torque the bolts. Chances are someone already did. If so, it may leave the flange distorted at some or all of the bolt holes. Check the top surface and make sure it's flat. The metal is fairly soft and if it has been over torqued, the top may be mushroomed up a bit at some or all of the bolt holes. If it's not flat, tap the bolt holes down lightly with a hammer to get the top surface as even as you can. (rest the flange on the edge of your work bench and tap lightly - work your way around each side)
  20. If you drive a car, I'll tax the street,If you try to sit, I'll tax your seat.If you get too cold I'll tax the heat,If you take a walk, I'll tax your feet.
  21. Welp, without even an adjustment a simple swap over to the old carb and voila... issue gone. So now I guess I need to breakdown this carb and see where it went wrong with the previous owners rebuild.
  22. As long as it wasn't a solo session...
  23. Its Wednesday, but i work from home, found this sick album
  24. Let it be said the Z car has always been inspirational to so many!
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