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  2. I take "rostdelete" , with best results , see the pictures from my 240z 1971.
  3. Hey, I had the same issue. I Couldn’t remove the line either. I am going to do an EGR delete so I just cut the metal hose. Probably not what you want to do but that was my solution. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. That limb's well traveled! I have taken many steps and it just gets narrower but still holds.
  5. Since you still have the EGR ( I have mine also) you don't have to remove the tube. It does help to remove the PCV hose. If I remember correctly, the biggest heat shield comes out only one way, and I can never remember that one way each time I've removed mine 😒. You probably need to wiggle some more and it will magically come out. Just remember the way its came out because that is the only way it will go back in. I'm going to go out on a limb, but I think the folks who deleted the EGR altogether don't have this problem......
  6. Today
  7. There's 2 heat shields on my '77. With the vertical one out of the way it should slide right out. I don't remember any issues with mine. Good luck.
  8. left side tie rod is the one with left hand threads. Right side is right hand thread. That assumes no one has replaced the left side with a right side inner rod (common since left sides are hard to find), which would make them both right hand thread. Look at the threads and how they lead into the lock nuts.
  9. I can check the other bank, but I am pretty sure they are working, I can get it to idle fine (no missing) IF I manually deflect the AFM vane about 20 degrees. Once I open the throttle up, it runs normally (no manual deflection of the AFM required), so the problem seems to be isolated to low throttle or idle. I know the TPS is working since the other ECU works fine in the test stand. I maybe wrong on "runs normally at high throttle though, I did not run it very long that way, and as soon as I let off the throttle it backfired and blew the AFM completely off the throttle body.
  10. The engine will run on three cylinders. Somebody actually cut one in half and ran it that way, if you recall way back. The Kent Moore Analyzer manual has more info that might help understanding. There might be a pdf file on the site but in the meantime there's this web site, broken down by single pages. -
  11. Hey, was wondering if anyone had a tip for me. I removed the drivers side outer tie rod but the passenger one is seized. Its lefty loosy on the passenger side right? The drivers side is the one that is the opposite way? I have used heat and PB blaster. Wont budge.
  12. Hey thanks, Kats. I have never noticed that before.
  13. @katsMy co-owned Feb 1970 did not have the plastic base: I wish I still had it 😞
  14. LOL! The IC's have numbers on them, but there's no info (that I can find) anywhere about what's inside. My assumption is that they are parts made by Hitachi for use only inside Hitachi produced devices and they didn't publish datasheets for them outside their own business. So you put a lamp in place of one injector and it blinked. That tests one output transistor. Can you move the lamp around to the other injectors and make sure the second output transistor is "working" too? If the wiring harness hasn't been messed with, I believe the injectors are grouped 1-2-3 and 4-5-6. You can pull the ECU off the harness and Ohm out the wires to the main ECU connector if you have to. As for the altitude compensations and stuff like that... The cars that did not need that stuff (non CA?) simply did not have them installed. My assumption is that the ECU defaults to "normal" non-altitude corrected if the other stuff is just left as no-connects. In other words, I strongly assume that you can just leave all the altitude compensation pins unconnected and it should work like a 49 state version.
  15. Great !! You have a projector machine to view your “state of the art “ parts catalog , do you ? Nice collection! Kats
  16. Hey Kats, I think I have the high tech version of that manual.
  17. I can’t stop myself to post this , I found the green car has the basements for the sun visors . I have been wanting to know when our cars have got the basement . My 03/1970 car doesn’t have it , according to the parts catalog , our cars appeared that no basement with the sun visors until the third revision of the catalog ( June 1970) issued . The second revision was issued March 1970 , so the change was made in between these two periods . April ? May ? This green car tells us at least in May 1970 our cars have the basement with the sun visors. Kats
  18. I almost hate to ask but what town was this located in? There was a green car that was near my house that went up for sale a couple weeks ago and caught a lot of attention. It was less than 60 miles from my house.
  19. I am going to try hooking up my AC analog simpson and see if I can get a voltage reading instead of just the lamp. will do with good and bad ECU. I recall disconnecting the temp sensor trying to get it to run, but I forgot to look a the light to see if was flashing brighter (FSM check for correct operation of ECU). If that is inconclusive (the simpson) I will get out the scope. That should give me some clarity on the signal for comparison. I will do this with the spare dizzy so I don't have to spin the engine over for testing.
  20. oh and the 78 did NOT have an O2 sensor either. Guess that came on the later ZX. Again since all my pins "seem" to go somewhere I really don't know what I have in the way of an ECU.
  21. I've successfully removed all the bolts securing this heat shield to the underside of the intake manifold, but it seems as though the EGR pipe (the pipe that is connected between the intake and exhaust manifolds) is blocking the heat shield from being able to be removed from the engine. I tried for several minutes trying to wiggle the heat shield out, but with no luck. The next logical step would be to remove the EGR pipe to get it out of the way, but everything I've read on this forum indicates that loosening the bolts that secure the EGR pipe is damn near impossible. Am I missing any trick to getting the heat shield out with the EGR pipe still installed?
  22. Yea I read that, but visual inspection IIRC had traces to all the pins, all soldered and going somewhere (not just pads). I will be confirming that. I just read up on the alt comp, leans it 6%. Also if I read the 1978 FSM correct I should NOT have continuity between 12 and 9 for low alt (sea level). The wiring harness I have does not support a alt comp device so I presume "as is" there is no continuity, therefore should NOT be an issue. That and a 6% even if I am wrong does not seem to be enough to require such a large deflection of the AFM flap. I don't know how the signals are coupled to the circuit, I assume since the sensors are DC, then no capacitor issues, possible a resistor has gone out of spec, but without a schematic its like shooting in the dark. I don't want to go around probing with a multimeter set to resistance and end up frying a IC. Besides that the parts look to be high reliability so will have to stick with just a visual and look for an obvious defect. The fact that it works at all make me think its a base signal issue, the AFM flap effect it, the trigger is working. I suppose I should try it with the engine completely warmed up to see if the cold enrichments could be the problem (air/water/start). Still would not know how to effect a fix if one or more of those was the issue. IF its a base signal, IC2 seems responsible for setting that up, Not sure how the freq is derived, been a while since I messed with IC wave generators, IIRC I made some up as a kid from 556 and resistor/cap values.. CO HELP!!!! I don't even know if the IC's have marks on them, they are the round can types not DIP. If it had vacuum tubes I would be more comfortable....
  23. Some of the ECU's have all of the pins but many are not connected to anything. There's been a discussions about it. Chalked up to manufacturing "efficiencies" or overstock or things along those lines.
  24. will be digging in. for starters I am going to see if the 78 FSM has any mention of other sensors as well. I think that is the year that the ECU pins were all connected. I don't know for sure what year this ECU is from. I do know it has large alum guide ears on it if that is a clue.
  25. You might check the PCB circuits in the ECU that are connected to the sensors that control fuel enrichment. Coolant and air temperature sensors, for example. The AFM pins. If I had it sitting in front of me I might just check continuity from the PCB trace to the pin at the connector, for starters. Broken solder joints at the connector have been found and fixed, in past threads. If those are solid, then the components at the ends of the traces. Depends on how far you want to dig in to it. Could be fun. Finding that it starts lean. too lean to keep running, is a big clue.
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