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@SteveJ Cool, will go try that later tonight..... Thanks for the information............

Of course, there is one other possibility. I could have designed the test wrong. I dug out a diode that should be the same spec as the ones used in the plug and tested myself. I found my instructions were lacking. You should re-test with the meter in diode testing mode. You can leave the key in OFF, too. If you test from the ballast resistor to the white/black wire, you should get a result similar to this: With the leads swapped, you should see this: If you do the voltage test, you should see a little less than battery voltage as the diode causes a slight voltage drop.

@SteveJ Thanks for the information, I am going to go retest and make sure I got it right. I did check the diode plug with a meter, and it looked right. I think I have another diode plug too, so will try that and see if anything changes. So to make sure I am right, I should have the positive on the ballast resistor and the negative on the alternator plug and should get close to "0"? Am I correct that there is only one fusible link coming off the starter that feeds the car on the early z? For some reason in my brain I thought there were two..... not sure what that would be for........ Will get the alternator checked on Monday, since I have it out. Then reinstall........ THANKS so much for the information and quick response.......

The 200 ohm setting is the correct one. The reading for the first test should have been close to zero. The reading you got was >200. That means either you didn't have good contact on the testing points, the diode is bad, or something else is wrong with the wiring. The way to confirm is to put the alternator back in, connect the battery, put the key in ON, and check for voltage to ground on the white/black wire. If you don't have voltage under those conditions, the alternator won't charge when running.

Steve won’t get notified on the forum if you don’t use the “@“ before the user name. In this case it’s “@SteveJ”. Just a heads up when you are replying to a certain member with a message or response.

Here is the reading with the leads switched

Correct, the battery is disconnected. Here are the readings, but I did both high and low settings...... With the Positive lead connected to the ballast, here are the readings:

@siteunseen Our Resident Librarian can dig this thread up for you. Have seen it many times here. Sorry Cliff, Figured you were bored on a Sunday afternoon! 🍻🌭

Never seen the last type. Suspect it is a retro fit that someone did from some other car. The first one is 240, second is 280, though can’t nail down the change over date. Could be as early as the north american 260 in 74. The fiche might provide the date info

The upper perforations are for the vent, the lower ones are for the speaker.

Did a bit more sleuthing and bought these https://www.ebay.com/itm/357952518138 along with the Toyota Koito housings that you linked! Found the housings cheaper here: https://cruiserteq.com/oem-toyota-koito-h4-headlight-upgrade-kit-w-harness-elec81110kit/?searchid=0&search_query=h4 All-in at about $110, I'm excited to try these out! Hopefully no more melted wiring and better light output.

Can anyone shine some light on the small speaker grills on my interior panels? I’ve read all over that these cars only came with one speaker on the driver’s side. I know the 280s had pleasers in front of the rear wheel humps, but I’ve never seen any discussion of small speakers pan over the strut towers. The holes are there in the sheet metal, and both interior panels are perforated for them. They are Nissan panels and have the paper sticker with the blue Japanese character on the back side. I have no idea what size they would be (probably 3”). So what’s the story?

Hey Steve, I've been looking into polarity-independent LED bulbs as they're seemingly the least intrusive lower-current/higher-output option. I've been doing some searching and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge here! Before I commit to ordering new housings and bulbs, I'm curious whether you're aware of any compatible LED bulbs with a warmer color, like the 3000K "Classic White" which Holley offers? I prefer a more period look when the lights are on.

I have seen three (3) styles of Heater Blower Motors on the 240Z 1) A short neck motor with individual terminal wire connectors 2) A short neck motor with a dual positive and negative connector terminal 3) A long neck motor with a double positive leads Can anyone identify the model year(s) or part number of three motor styles? Thanks, Keith

(this is for anyone else interested in a little information about some specifics that you raise:) 1. NONE of the above are "Coil - ". (Stock config = Coil "-" is connected to the points output of the distributor. So, new wire from the Coil "-" to your new gauge...(it will be a 2nd wire connection as the Coil "-" needs a "signal to fire" from points or an electronic ignition unit as well - your new gauge is just tapping into that signal)) 2. You don't necessarily need to jumper any of the wires in that connector, but you need to understand the coil wiring to decide whether to JUMP or just ABANDON the G/W and B/W in the connector pictured above. The stock circuit goes like this: IGN SWITCH -> B/W -> Ballast Resistor -> G/W -> Tach connector -> Loop on back of Tach -> Tach connector -> B/W -> Coil "+". The coil gets power at IGN ON through this and the Tach "senses" the flow of electricity to the coil. If you're replacing the stock Tach, the re-route of the B/W back to the Tach is not necessary - the B/W and G/W to that connector can simply be ignored (abandoned). SO - the B/W that goes to the Ballast can be connected to the Coil "+" - either through the Ballast (by removing the G/W and running a short wire from there to the Coil "+") OR bypassing the Ballast and connecting the "ballast's" B/W directly to the Coil "+" instead - IF you no longer need a Ballast Resistor in the circuit. note: I think it's better to abandon and get all that extra wire (and added resistance) OUT of the power circuit to the coil... BTW, the other two wires in that connector: Black - is a Battery Ground. R/L is gauge lighting - it's listed in the wiring schematic as "IL". So Black is the power ground for the Tach - the Tach gets power (battery voltage) from a Green in another connector.

Awesome.

Okay, I'm going to assume the battery is disconnected. Put the key in ON. Put your meter on resistance. If there is more than one setting, put it on the lowest setting. Put the positive lead on the black/white wire at the ballast resistor. Put the negative lead on the white/black wire at the T connector. (Yes, you'll probably need some help. Record the reading and report back. Swap the leads and remeasure. Record the reading and report back.

Contact Oliver at Zspecialties to see if he has any. https://zspecialties.com/ I suggest calling him at the number at that website. Over at zcar.com, his user name is zmanofwashington.

Update for all of you. We very may be in business here and you were all right - the hydraulic line was crooked/not fully seated and once I took it out and reseated it, the leak was gone. Again, I still don't understand how it didn't leak over the course of 6 years and thousands of miles, but I guess that was a good thing. I am going to bleed the brakes tomorrow just to be safe but I did bleed the master after all of this and the pedal feels good. Here are pictures of the line screwed in before, the flange/nut's condition when I took it out this evening, and how the cylinder looks now with the line in straight.

I am in Bellingham, WA 98229

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Looking for a close ratio 5 speed. I've seen a few listed here, but can't seem to find them now (plus they were over a couple years old). Hope someone here has got one that I can take off their hands!

Another component bites the dust, opened up my fuel pump relay only to find a similar fate as the ignition module. Weird part is, the relay looked like it might have been taken apart once already, but the guts say otherwise. I wonder if all the relays on the passenger side will be like this also. I pulled this link from a post I found here and ordered one. And I also pulled the color wiring diagram from here and had the local printer blow it up. Now I can actually read it.

1977 280z AFM from an EFI engine. Car had been sitting, everything looks in working order. asking $150 obo. located in Gilbert AZ

ok, will check that out, since I have already pulled the alternator, took a whole 20minutes........ I guess I can check to see if there is continuity from the battery terminal to the "T" connector? Is there a fuse inline somewhere? I know there is a fusible link come off the starter..........