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  2. Also, John Morton will be driving that BRE car at the 2019 Classic Daytona & Daytona Historics in November. I'm looking forward to seeing photos of the car on high banks.
  3. Try ball point pen (Bic or other throw away "stick" pens) bodies with the refill removed - nice tube and can be cut to length as needed. Dennis
  4. Today
  5. No it is all stock, except the VR, it was a first generation electronic style one from the eighties.
  6. Randy Jaffe's BRE isn't the original, but he has the original powertrain, two of the surviving wheels, switchgear, gauges, and many of the other bits and pieces from the original car. Dan Parkinson bought the 46 from BRE and raced it for a while until a front steering/suspension (I can't remember what exactly) failed and put the car into the wall on its left side. Dan got a 280Z from Nissan and transferred the parts to that car. Randy bought the Parkinson car a few year back to get the parts. Some of the parts just sit on display, like the powertrain. Other parts have succumbed to time, like the megaphones. (I was helping the team scrounge for parts when the megaphones gave out at the 2018 Mitty.) The car has been recaptured in incredible detail, down to having hand-painted numbers and logos. To see it in person is to travel in a time machine back to the 70s. John Morton even gave Randy the VIN plate from the original car.
  7. CO, I didn’t know you can covert the bins on a 77. And put doors there. I’d like to do this mod. I have the slopped rear deck which I don’t really like. I’d prefer the flat rear deck. I have a spare that is inflatable. Bought parts from a guy that had leftover from his 78 rebuild and he threw in that spare. Not sure if it’s compatible with mine. Is there a thread on this conversion? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. They should move fairly easily. How much grease did you pack in there? The FSM is very specific about how much to use and where. My thread has the complete half shaft disassembly and rebuild guide. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61539-s30-half-shaft-disassembly-and-rebuild/
  9. I performed all those changes you describe. I switched over to a skinny spare and lowered the rear false deck. I also put lids on the cargo bins and am using them for stuff that used to be located back by the spare.
  10. I resisted the urge to suggest that might happen. I wasn't convinced that you found the root cause of the problem. Sorry that it came back, but glad you think you found the smoking gun this time. I also don't have any input into a correlation between a bad condenser and an oil pressure gauge, but anyway... So what type of ignition system did you have in the car when the problem occurred? You said you replaced the VR with an old mechanical style. Were you running an aftermarket distributor with a VR pickup?
  11. Yeah, keep an eye on them and make sure they aren't falling apart. Could be compatible, or could be an issue. Here's to hoping they outlast the rest of the car!
  12. It's been 20+ years since I had my bumpers chromed, but the place is still in business and does much chrome work for the hot rod guys. They seem to know what car folks expect. You will want to run a die down the bumper mounting bolts to clean up the threads or you will have trouble tightening the nuts, ask me how I know. https://www.ogdenchrome.com/ They did the bumpers, grill and all other chrome on my wife's truck too.
  13. Does anyone have any experience with the rear axle?
  14. The photos you see there are of my spindle pin tool being used on one of Chris' spindle pins. Think back to all the spindle pin photos you've witnessed, and you may recall that the actual part that goes through the spindle bore is not particularly rusted to sh*t. It's always the bushing collars that hang up the pin on both ends (or the pin is just tweaked a little- in which case; god help you). It's pretty much the same on any car that has bushing collars in an old bushing pod. That's almost always where the bolt is seized. When I used this tool on the car I made it for, I had to heat up one spindle pin so that the bushings would melt inside the control arm and allow the pin to pull the collar through the bushing. I also heated the spindle cast iron itself quite a bit with a MAPP torch. The other side eventually popped loose out of the collar on its own, but really the best way to go about it being stuck on both ends is to preload the side with the tool and use an air chisel with a flat headed anvil on the other side. The combined forces will ensure you aren't stripping threads and you're pushing it in the right direction. In total it probably took me about 20 minutes for that one without having to bust out the air chisel. It seems like Honda is the only company that goes through the trouble of splining/hobbing/rifling the shank of their fasteners to allow lubricant to remain between the pin/bolt shank and the collar to prevent this from happening- but even in certain climates it doesn't prevent the same problem completely, it only allows the corrosion process to take longer to become a pain in the arse.
  15. Ignition system points capacitors (condensers is the old school term) are made with a lug on one end to mount & ground, the other end has a wire with lug for connection to the points. They are not electrolytic caps, probably mylar. I would guess that today, they are very cheaply made and many fail for that reason.
  16. We desperately hope this is wrong, but rumor has it that Toyota plans to kill off the Land Cruiser in the US market. If true that would mean the longest running model in the company’s history, offered continuously since day … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  17. I know too little about points systems but what I would ask is the dumb question: are you sure it’s not an Electrolytic capacitor connected the wrong way? The only things I’ve seen in the past burning caps are: 1. over voltage 2. incorrect orientation of electrolytic caps 3. Excessive heat (i.e. how are your engine bay temps when this occurs?) 4. Ferroresonace / harmonics with the source that result in undamped oscillations If we say 4 is highly unlikely and 2 is also not the case then you are left with voltage and heat. If you were dramatically over-volting then should other things not be affected also? E.g. gauges etc? Or could there be a 5. Rubbish quality Chinese capacitor being rebranded and sold as a quality item.? The easiest way to troubleshoot is to get a high voltage cap from Radio Spares (RS) with the same uF capacity and a high heat rating. Then test run it. Ideally a ceramic cap if you can get it in the required capacity.
  18. The "fuel capacity" thing is correct (a real surprise for web info). The parts manual clearly shows the difference in the spare tire indentation in the top of the two tanks. I'm not sure about the "extra reinforcing" part, but the change prompted a vertical rise behind the seats and some bolt-on vertical risers (at the front of the spare well and a couple-four bent metal posts that also anchor the luggage straps) to support the new false floor. Oh yeah, and the change occasioned the loss of 5 or 6 cu. ft. of usable storage in the back. I've been trolling around for a "skinny" emergency spare that would allow me to reclaim much of the lost volume above the carpet, not to mention the use of the now-buried cubbies behind the front bulkhead. Speaking of which; anyone know a source of the original metal cubby lids? The aftermarket offerings generally suck.
  19. The repair of the first break by the ash tray actually went well (from some years ago), owing to the piece of compatible plastic I used for the bridging backing. The second, not so much so, as I couldn't come up with another good backing piece (a hunk of a poly-something battery case, as I recall) in my garage . The piece left a very clear impression in all the cyclo-crazy glue and epoxy that I used. The disappointment (an befuddlement) stems from the fact that all that adhesive did not hold the break together. I'm thinking to try roughing the piece up, maybe drill a few small holes, if I can't come up with another piece of styrene, since it seems unlikely that I will find a glue that holds both. I can see the merit of the fiberglas mat, but I would like something with some more body; that run past the ash tray hole is the weakest spot on the console body and needs all the strength it can get. But the Oatley adhesive looks promising. I'm still working out a strategy for the lid's shattered screw posts. Maybe I can find some ABS rod somewhere....
  20. Spent the entire night working on the hatch. I welded up all the holes from the screwed in louvres and welded the emblem holes up as the spoiler will be going over them. I also welded up the hatch release button hole and welded in the pull ring and mounting points for the hatch release solenoid. All ready for final prep! The solenoid bolts to the inner hatch where I welded in a support plate. The solenoid fits perfect in here and I can adjust the tension for the proper release pop. The cable goes inside the panel and through a washer that I welded (carefully) just inside and to the left of the release arm that needs to be pulled straight down in order to pop the hatch. If you can imagine a washer with the top quarter bent over and welded just below the right hand bolt of the catch in the picture. That was some trick welding (about 6 tries). The hatch emblems and louvre holes had to go. I didn't want them to be rust holes later and the spoiler would cover half of them anyways... The latch opener was the biggest hole and I took a very closely sized washer, welded the centre shut, then tack welded it into the hole at four points to reduce the amount of heat transfer to the hatch. I will fill all the pinholes with fibreglas before final bodywork.
  21. It is a off the shelf grommet, says it is vinyl on the package so we will see what looks like in 500 miles
  22. Not me. However, the VIN is within 400# or so of my own 5/70, so I'm more interested than usual. Low-miles (perhaps) and looks 'rust-free-ish' (perhaps). Driver's seat look very good. Original? Dash pad appears crack-free, but I suppose it could be a cap. No under-car photos, so there's potentially a lot left unknown there. The thing that caught my attention is that the car still wears 90% of its braided hoses in the engine compartment (even the heater in-out and brake vacuum hoses -- and that's rare to see). The upper and lower rad hoses didn't make the cut, of course.
  23. Unfortunately, the owner of Denver Bumper Works sold the land and the building to a pot company and the owner retired. The new owners of the property razed the building and built new grow houses. Here's a picture that I took soon after the building was razed in July of 2014. I really miss Denver Bumper. I don't think that there are any other chrome shops here in the Denver area.
  24. Yesterday
  25. Well, the problem has come back, and this time I took a deep breath and started trouble shooting before tearing into anything. Much the same symptoms as before, running really rough and smoking. The more it ran the worst it got. To the point it was backfiring and would not stay running. I finally tracked it down to a bad capacitor(brand new) on the points. Once it was replaced to ran like a top for about two days and started again, once again it was another bad capacitor. I do believe my old style electronic external voltage regulator has failed causing the caps to burn up. I replaced the VR with a old mechanical style one and another cap. Seems to be running great again, but I have been here a couple of times already. Is there any thing else I am missing that would fry the cap?
  26. Crazy, I look at the photo that I posted from ZParts and see different sizes. I would have never guessed that they are the same size.
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