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Uncrunched hood: Good point on the tip, correctly wrinkled steel, spot welds visable. (factory paint on this one)

Sorry. This is a NOPE. Point of hood is wrong, no spot welds noticeable, way too smooth - it's been filled...

😂😅🤣

The seal needs to be flush with the back of the block. It will go deeper, ask me how I know. Had to order another one from nissan🤦‍♂️

@zspert , do you know if the heads for the program cars had hardend valve seats installed as part of the rebuild? What I'm really wondering is, should I be running lead-free additive in my car?

Thanks! You are right, aviation permatex is a sticky substance.

Sometimes new seals come with some little dabs of lube already on the inside lip. If yours did not, you can just use motor oil, or my favorite... silicone grease. As for the outside surface, I would do the same there. Motor oil or silicone grease. I wouldn't use anything that sticks like the aviation permatex. In my experience, the outside of the seal has significant interference with the hole you press it into. In fact, I've had to hit them harder than I was comfortable with just to get them seated into place. If your experience is like mine, you'll be thankful for the slippy on the OD, not the sticky. Use your old seal as a protection ring to tap your new one into place. And make sure the new one is square when you are done.

Thank you, that is a good back up plan if I can't find any. Thank you for the suggestion.

I would make some out of a old inner tube of a car or bike. prefer car inner tube, as the rubber is thicker.

I never knew these baljoints can be taken apart.. as they are not that expensive i always installed a new set.. less than 100 euro's a set, orig. nissan parts. (No idea what they cost these days..) With new ones your not indanger to drive other people off the road, you sleep better.. ;-) Thanks Zed for that vid and the warning..

Great, thanks guys - I feel better now since I know that the auto shop actually replaced the front gasket. I bought a rear main seal from Rockauto, Mahle, JV637, made in Japan. Looks very solid. The last question - the inside lip of the rear main seal per Tom's book will be coated with moly/petroleum jelly. What about the outside seal surface and inside the engine where the seal goes? Wipe it clean with a solvent? Should I smear some aviation permatex on the outside of the seal before its installation? Thank you.

A brief update: I picked up the transmission jack at HF . Other stuff filled most of the day but I managed to get the jack in place and raise the tank with it. Actually got the filler hose and clamp in place. Yeah. then I went to the other end to raise and hook it up. That's when the filler hose came apart and fell back down. Turns out that I failed to raise the jack enough so that it would hold the filler tub hose clamp assembly together. My bad. Anyway, I now know that I can get the filler tube aligned and joined which was my original issue. By now my neck was telling me to take a break so I'll get back to it tomorrow smarter than I was today. Thanks for the advice all. Rodger

I wouldn't have any problem reusing that clutch. I'd replace the seal and reuse everything else. Don't forget a little bit of new EP grease on the pilot bushing.

The Rear main seal is still available from Nissan the last time I checked. The rest looks good. Be carefull tapping in the new seal from Nissan. I don’t advise shortcuts from other vendors as far as the rear main.

If you could even find an NOS switch it would be serious money.

NOS? Highly unlikely. Used - Try Junkyard Jenny. https://junkyardjenny.com/

Hi guys, I am chasing some oil leaks, and I finally removed the transmission to find out that the rear main seal is leaking (I replaced the side seals a few weeks ago): I wanted to ask you if I should replace the clutch that I had the shop install 15 years ago. The car has put 1000 miles since then. The clutch plate doesn't look worn out as far as thickness goes. There are some grooves in it, but running a finger nail against then doesn't feel deep. The engine flywheel is smooth, no scratches. The clutch didn't slip. I replaced the master/slave clutch cylinders a month ago. Here are some pictures of the clutch plate: I also don't see any leaks around the front transmission seal/gasket area. It looks like the shop replaced it (I see the 'new' paper gasket sticking out): The throw-out bearing is smooth, no noise while spinning. Should I replace the clutch and re-do the front seal/gasket of the transmission? I got the replacement parts from the ZCarDepot just in case. Thanks!

Here's the update, finally. It was the Hazard switch. I did my best to restore it, and everything works now. I'm on the hunt to get a NOS replacement since it is pretty worn, and my "restoration" is only going to get me so much more time. Didn't find one doing a quick search. I thought I would ask here before continuing with the Google machine. What is your recommended source for NOS Datsun electronics?

Hello, I have read through threads from years ago and read that some members had been cleaver enough to 3D print Racing Mirrors Gaskets. I am rescuing a scrapped pair of mirrors and wondered if anyone had the 3D design they could email to me and I could then get to work finding a way to print them? Any help would be wonderful. Here are pictures to clarify what I am looking for... Thank you.

Racing and her. The rest was just what he did to afford racing and her…

Heading to Harbor Freight.☹️

They do still sell "builders" but only if they have all the proper paperwork. Once the cars are in the yard they only sell parts off them. They always post the picture of the complete car from the pre yard lot. That one looks pretty complete, with good parts on it. Too bad it is so far from me.

Looks like a ran-when-parked car. Not sure if they would be able to sell it as a complete titleable car. Might be worth an inquiry for somebody. As I recall, they used to sell complete cars for about $1100 dollars. Probably up around $1500 now. The basic scrap value. https://www.row52.com//Vehicle/Index/RNDZRjYMUcAnW9fgxc7OhGt2S

Steve, thanks for staying with the conversation and the Harbor Freight coupon note. I'll be trying to hook up the filler end first this A.M. Failing that it will be off to HF. Rodger

Is it possible that you've misinterpreted the reference point for the 465mm measurement that appears in FSM drawing? The way I read the drawing, that 465mm measurement defines the distance from the so-called 'C-point' to the centreline of the moustache bar's chassis mount bushings (if you look really closely, you'll see the moustache bar's circular end loops defined just to the rear and inboard of the rear shock tower chassis mounts). Let's call this location on the vehicle the 'E-point'. The 'D-point' refers to the centreline of the top of the rear struts . But, according to the FSM drawing the centreline of the top of the struts lies directly above the centreline of the 'gearcase mounting rear crossmember' (which is a more useful reference point when taking measurements off the vehicle). The D-point sits 450mm aft of the C-point The E-point sits 15mm aft of the D-point (so 465mm aft of the C-point). The photo below (source?) provides a good visual reference for what all this looks like on the underside of a bare Z structure. As far as I can see (I could be wrong), the FSM drawing makes no attempt to provide dimensions for the location of the rear lower control arm and its mounting points. You'd need to construct your own layout drawing for the diff, moustache bar, and rear suspension in order to specify (in mm) the locations of the rear lower control arm and its mounting points relative to the C-point.