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Do you think your fan clutch (Tem-coupling) was working correctly? Supposed to hold fan speed in a narrow range.

Car parts manual shows as "Relay For Heat Glass"

The large white with red made me think it was a primary relay...

I thought that relay was for the Hatch defroster? I could be wrong. I don't think it is as turn signal flasher though, they are the round 2 wire canister looking ones.

Thanks Ernest, I have the large laminated wiring diagram. Makes tracing much easier

I'll check the old switch but I don't think it closed in a short enough distance either

Is that the accessory relay?

I went through some weird blinker issues and it turned out to be a connector pin in the harness near the glove box had pushed out of the connector. I think I have a large laminated wire diagram if you need one.

That’s called growing Old “ Gracefully”!

@patcon send me a pm. I have a new Nissan switch

Okay, this is weird, but I'll mention it anyway. I bought a new fan blade (just like that) from Nissan and it was great - OR would have been if I had a stock radiator maybe. But I installed a Koyo 240Z radiator in my early 260. The Koyo is probably a bit thicker than stock - although there looked like plenty of room between fan and radiator. I drove my new setup a bit and pulled back into the shop. The radiator was leaking coolant. It had been hit from behind. I couldn't figure it out. (I first thought it was a defect I didn't see) The new fan had blades just a smidge longer than the old, hard blade I had been using. And they were nice and fresh and supple (well, much more so than my old crusty fan). What I EVENTUALLY found after I almost ruined a SECOND Koyo radiator: The stinking longer, more flexible blades of the new fan were flexing FORWARD ENOUGH for the tips to reach the radiator. Fast spinning nylon beats aluminum tubes and fins. (Koyo is side tank and the fan didn't hit the center, it hit the inside of the right-side tank and the tip of the blade was then pushed into the tube and fins on that side only - right next to the tank) Check the forward motion of the fan blades at speed. (having said that, I've found NO BETTER radiator than the Koyo for my Phoenix, AZ, daily driven, A/C pumping, turbo swapped, intercooled early 260Z - and I'm still using that old, hard fan... The new one is sitting on the shelf.)

I'd be surprised if you couldn't still get one from Nissan but my local O'Reilly's can get an aftermarket one in store in an hour for a stock transmission. (also, if you dig away the black goo that the two wires come out of on the original switch, you'll find a couple of brass solder tabs in there that what's left of the wire will still be soldered to. a bit of wire and a male and female bullet connector (with insulators)... Fill the cavity back up with silly cone - just sayin')

nice, thanks for the quick numbers to look up. I think this relay is the issue with too much current being pulled when the flashers were on....... Are the relay the same for series one cars and other 240z?

So I need a little help. I still don't have turn signals even with a new electronic flasher. I have tried a three wire with a ground and a two wire. I will save that for Cody at the moment. The other problem for the day is reverse lights. The switch I have has the leads torn off. So I ordered a new one for a 280zx transmission from a Z vendor I bought a number of things from and like doing business with. The new switch does not trigger fast enough. That is to say the plunger has to travel too far to make the circuit. It appears the plunger is brass so that seems to rule out adding metal to it with the welder. Is there another way to source a better switch? One that needs less travel or one with the plunger a little longer... The switch needs to trigger before the length is below 0.73". The new one needs to travel about 0.125" more to trigger

You can look for 1156 & 1157 bulbs on Amazon in all different colors. One bulb is a single filament one bulb is a dual filament

Thanks for the notes, I will check the passenger side relay panel again. I didn't see anything that is like the flasher unit for the turn signals. But will take another look. There was a small rectangular unit that looked like it was "ticking" when I put the hazards on, but maybe I missed something. Will try to get a picture I will check out changing the tail lights out to LED, maybe that will drop the current. I might put an amp meter inline with the fuse to see if I can get a reading Didn't know they made red LED tail light replacement for the z car type bulbs..... will check into that. I am going to run a wire to the horn to make sure I am getting 12v there when I hit the horn. Thanks for the help

Unless you have rebuilt the wiper motor and all of that, you should throw a bottle of Rain-X in the glove box just in case. If you go fast enough it works when the wipers don't. I kept a bottle in my Hardbody Nissan when I was driving back and forth to Destin after hurricane Opal.

Stevej's recommendation for LED bulbs is spot on. I would go so far as to recommend all external bulbs be LED. If you do that be sure to use colored bulbs that match the lense color they go behind. And you will also need to replace the blinker and hazard flasher with electronic units which are available on Amazon. I used these. https://www.amazon.com/Hbxdeco-LED-Flasher-Relay-Replacement/dp/B0DBQDY9PX/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?c=ts&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.r0vtsr6gvhaP0JqIkrNNWe1VSyoKzqOmRDZMqIRm6Sx2S7hdmByoSlq5B7nnOyC4MjUdGvYR06DT5etEUXNzrXbi7AcSH8Rng3yRz4GSf1YwuYjEHcbLtbKRPcP3uDHyo1Fn9msBVau9Fk45nP6kIF-9rnZd6556d6neZaina6L_ZLR8n8uvVl9wvzzTfmPOdAe6JyV2wZsad-_tpTWpyg.1qmzhFAIKk5rXUhbY14Gkd6aGisVISftIH7AlWO7sMs&dib_tag=se&keywords=Automotive+Electronic+Flashers&qid=1756048201&s=automotive&sr=1-4&ts_id=15716621

Independent…

Undressed…

Fraternal twins!

@SteveJ You are our “go to guy” in electric issues Steve. We appreciate someone who knows more than “It bites you, but you can’t see it”…….. like me. Live forever!!!!🥳

The flasher for the hazard lights is the same type used for the turn signals. The hazard lights flasher is located at the passenger side relay panel. Since you hear a click with the horns, it may be that the horns are corroded. On my 73, I used a wire wheel on a dremel to polish the positive contact and grounding points. You should use silicone grease on those areas before re-installing to delay future corrosion. One way to reduce heat on the brake light circuit after you get the hazards working would be to swap out incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. LEDs draw less current.

Ben Branch is a repeat offender. Look here for his assertion that Nissan's L-series engines were the result of the Nissan-Prince merger of 1966: https://silodrome.com/history-datsun-240z/ He can't even get Dr Shinichiro Sakurai's name right. Katayama lore ahoy! The usual - and some unusual, if not utterly baffling - nonsense trotted out: "Nissan’s senior management were actually not particularly pleased that Yutaka Katayama had achieved such a notable success and so to “reward” him they sent him to Los Angeles in the United States in 1960 to do “market research” and work on establishing Nissan/Datsun in the US market in all likelihood fully expecting him to fail." "Mr. K’s research and persistence in establishing a Datsun dealer network against the odds were remarkable achievements." "What was chiefly needed however were cars that would appeal to American buyers and Mr. K wisely advocated to the design team in Japan to build a real driver’s car. Japan heeded the call and the result was the groundbreaking Datsun 510 (aka Datsun 1600) of 1967. Incorporating a fully independent suspension and four cylinder SOHC engine based on Dr. Sakuri’s Prince six cylinder, effectively with two of the cylinders lopped off." "A sports car with that fully independent suspension and which featured an engine based on Dr. Sakuri’s Prince six cylinder with no cylinders lopped off – made to be a car that would give the Porsche’s a run for their money, the first of the “Z” cars, the Datsun 240Z." "But Mr. K understood that to call the car “Fairlady” was a kiss of death in western markets such as the United States. It is said he personally went and removed the “Fairlady” badge from every car in that first shipment." "Although the Datsun 240Z was designed by Yoshihiko Matsuo and a Nissan team the real concept for the car came from Mr. K. He had been heavily influential in the design of the Datsun 510 on which the 240Z was based, despite the two cars looking very different." ...and it goes on. Is there a car - and a backstory - that has had more utter nonsense written about it than the S30-series Z? Some of the stuff that these people come up with is parallel-universe level fantasy. So his daft description of the car for sale is hardly surprising.

I did check the fuse box, no melting, so happy about that...... Went through a bunch of stuff, noticed that the wires around the blinker flasher looked melted, so I replaced the flasher unit with old spare, and that issue is solved. Got the tail lights working, with the fuse replacement on the harness for the "parking light upgrade harness". Brake lights are now working too............so need to work on the horn, which clicks when I hit the button, I also want to figure out the hazard lights flasher unit. Not sure where that is, but I hear something on the passenger side....... Is that unit the same as the blinker flasher unit? Do not like the heat on the fuse box, but it's not like I use the emergency flashers.......... Progress,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,