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Back in the shop this weekend I need some help with this seal. How is it supposed to fit to the door?? I got the door locks in the doors,. Although I damaged the paint on the passenger door. Window frames are in and all the internal mechanism is in. I got the window regulators in yesterday. Freshly plated fuel door latch I got the door glass in today after church I will work on door sweeps next weekend, hopefully. Maybe mirrors too

redrum, redrum...

Nice work, Captain Obvious. Thanks for your persistence in moving this forward. A few questions and comments specific to the Combination Switch: I see the Horn Relay, but I don't see the Horn Switch (talking about the 'switch' that operates when the driver pushes on the horn pad) Letters appear in some of the rows in Column 2 of the 'grid' for the Combination Switch (the letters are: A, B, D, E, F, M and P). Can you refresh my memory as to what they stand for? As currently depicted, the Wipers show only 'OFF' and 'ON' modes, with the logic within the 'ON' mode apparently trying to do double-duty for both 'HI' and 'LO'. I think that the switch's operation might be more clear if 'ON' is replaced with discrete 'HI' and 'LO' modes. See attached schematic, per my original post in this thread back in July 2024. As I also pointed out back in 2024, it's worth keeping in mind that the colours of the wires coming off the Combo Switch don't always match the colours of the wires to which they connect on the Vehicle harness. See below (bold-face letters are Vehicle-side, regular-face letters are Switch-side)...

I think both those GMBs are aftermarket and agree that an Aisin with the cast iron impeller will be as close to OE that you'll find today unless you can find one using the part number on this box.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I changed the ground distribution scheme to add the dedicated ground strap directly from the battery terminal to the firewall, and also labeled the ground connections that are through the engine metal. Hope this helps depict how the car is actually wired. I also changed one of the wire colors leading to the fog light switch. Might only matter to people in other parts of the world who have fog lights. <V8.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 8.0.pdf

I don't think either of those water pumps you pictured are "original", but as for "correctness", here's a couple pics from a 9/70 car. Note that this car has A/C and I don't know if that makes any difference, but it's what I got:

I have lights. No one is going to not see this thing. These LEDs are significantly brighter than the lights on my Subaru. Unfortunately, somewhere between testing it on the bench and installing the dash, the speedo and tach illumination stopped working. I think the main branch of wiring coming out of the dimmer is messed up. I also don’t have any blinkers for some reason. That one is going to be harder to figure out. Worst case scenario is that I made a mistake in the engine harness.

I bought a new Aisin water pump off Amazon recently

What numbers are you looking to see? I do not know how to decipher the numbers on the glass. Thanks, Dennis

You can get a new Aisin WPN-013 water pump. I have no idea whether or not GMB was an OEM supplier, but Aisin is a Japanese based company that is a parts supplier for that country's automotive industry.

Almost 100% sure that the Nissan OEM pumps used the cast impeller, not the stamped steel. There are extensive discussions out there about which pumps best. So, I don't know if A is correct but I'd say that B is definitely incorrect. They both look pretty nasty. Are you thinking about using one of them?

Which is the original/correct water pump for a May 1971 240Z?

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. JE Piston Manufacturing started business in the early 1900's. They are known for their exceptional forging and machining quality. Thank you for your response. Mike.......datsun79z@aol.com

Interesting that the 1978 260Z, U.K. version shipped to Australia, referenced a few posts back also has the bumper mounter signals even though the grill with the signals inset was introduced in 1975 in the 280Z. I guess that Nissan had a good thing going and just let it ride. Or maybe the big bumper grill didn't work with the small bumper. Or the new signals were still too hard to see. The height seems right.

Very creative! Have you tried it to see how well it holds fluid?

The spout is attached to a perpendicular tube underneath, see photos;

Nissan were caught out by changes to motor vehicle 'Construction & Use' regulations with regard to lighting for 1971-up in several European markets. Height from road level was particularly difficult to solve. The regulations even required changes to the illumination of the rear license plate. Of course such regulations applied to NEW cars and many private owners took the opportunity to move these aesthetically unpleasant front turn signals to a position UNDER the front bumper, or - even better - to revert to the configuration that the gods originally intended... A legacy of precedence. You may have heard of Mr James Watt? He found it necessary to use a unit of measurement in order to compare the power of steam engines to that of working horses. Of course he used the IMPERIAL system as METRIC horsepower didn't exist at that point, the Industrial Revolution not being a Continental phenomenon... You may also have heard of Sir Isaac NEWTON? That's him in your Nm measurement. (Posted from The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, a small place off the coast of mainland Europe which used to rule much of the world for a while... LOL)

In 1991 when i was restoring a 240z and still in 1998 these were standard as the hight of the usa indicators was to low.. After 2005 or so the rules changed and the usa indicators are allowed now in the Netherlands. (and elswhere?) What i found strange is that the torque in english is not in Newton meters (Nm) but in caveman lb/ft ?? HUH?? 😂

The integral lower turn signals are too low to meet regs at the time. So the left and right valance have impressions but no holes and the signals are moved to the bumper

Yes, normal for areas of Europe, possibly all of Europe

Thanks guys. I will add that dedicated wire. Even though there is a path through the alternator and you don't really "NEED" that ground strap for the system to work, I was a little uncomfortable counting on pass through the alternator case as the only way for current to get back to the negative battery terminal. Hmmm... Now how to depict that on the diagram that makes it clear... ☺️

Are these turn signals normal? They look pretty weird. Other markets got the inset signals?

In other caliper rebuilds mainly on the Toyota big brake option for Z’s. I went and found plugs that would block ports that were letting air disperse in order for the piston to blow out. If I may ask have the pistons been removed?

Where did you get the parts? The grease is for inserting the seal in to its groove. Brake fluid is for sliding the piston through the seal. Oh well, the cars wouldn't be any fun if there wasn't something to fix on them.

On my 7/70 #6521, it is there like your picture. But on my Jan '70, #957, the tapped hole in the firewall does not exist and that ground wire is attached to the battery hold down frame mounting screw. Hmmm, After looking at some early cars on BaT I think my car had some work done in that area and the hole got filled in? Here are a couple of images and links to BaT: #00391 And #00512 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-38/