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Have you currently got snow like that?

My daily for the last bunch of years... My trusty steed, my Civic hatch.

Thanks guys. Sounds like the sizes will be fine, now the labor to get it right lol. I don't have a lift but do have some mechanical friends to lend a hand. What I think I'll do is get it up on stands, tackle the headers and pipe which should be within my wheelhouse, then assess if the lines can be done. If not, I'll get it to someone I trust who does have a full shop.

2010 BMW 535XiT M sport trim AWD. I haven't tuned it yet. I can add almost 100hp without much effort. It's new to me just recently. It's my errands car when I'm not driving my work truck

What you see on my car is what the body/paint shop came up with when they mixed the Glasurit paint to the stock 901 Datsun code. I left the inside of the right tool door the original paint. The original paint is a touch darker/greyer to my eye. Garrett

I have used an epoxy product from Caswell to coat a tank. It's very thick and would deal with pinholes pretty well. I suspect that tank will have quite a few pinholes once it's properly cleaned. It might be hard to do in an apartment setting...

I hope you have access to a lift, if not get the car as high as you can and from previous experience have someone to assist. I have the same set on my car. They are close but far from perfect. It’s tight underneath there. Biggest problem I ran into was getting them past the undercarriage near the rear passenger wheel where they shoot straight up and over. It can be done obviously. Wish I had done it on a lift it would have made it a lot easier. Also it’s going to arrive in a tall box where you have to use a tubing tool to straighten out the long straight lines. They will come marked at each point of the run. Purchased mine on Amazon.

That's larger tubing than stock so you won't have any problems. Stock supply is 5/16 and on the 240's return is two pipe sizes smaller I believe. The 260's and 280's got a larger return that's one pipe size smaller than supply. My L28ET runs well with the stock 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. Hard lines and electrical harnesses are the first things that go in when Z is put together. Fuel lines snake from very front to beyond the rear suspension. Portions of the rear suspension are not that difficult to get out of the way.

These are gold!! Thank you! I had considered trying to clean it myself, but i am in an apartment building for now and I'm not really keen on using that stuff and leaving it unventilated. Besides, I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to get the wheel well replaced before I can put the tank back in. I don't think there is enough metal left in that area to support it for long. I'm not far from Denver so there are a few restoration shops around and I'm sure they will have a better idea if its salvageable or not.

Decided to replace all the hard lines and had a question around sizing. I checked all the usual sites to find the best deal and noticed Z-Car had both stock and upsized for the supply and returns. I ended up going with a direct buy from classic tube and Cliff is making me what I think are the upsized ones I saw on Z Car. Before I commit, checking in with the crew here to give me some final advice. I went with 3/8 for supply, 5/16 for return, 1/4 for vapor all in the OE plated look. I'm still running SU round top and a mechanical fuel pump but down the road looking to go with triples so that's why I figured I would upsize. How do these sizes sound and am I going to run into any trouble with my existing setup? Engine I am assuming is still stock from previous owner, just rebuilt nicely. Oh and while I'm at it, advice on replacing them? My plan is to do all the hard lines for fuel, brake, clutch while I'm replacing the standard exhaust with headers and new pipes. Hoping I can wiggle my way through it all without removing much else of the undercarriage.

Mine were more crud from leaving old gas in them for too long. The tanks were good and solid after I pressure washed the outside of them. That muriatic acid made the inside like new but after sloshing around for 5 minutes I had to pour in about 3 gallons of mixed ahead of time baking soda and water to neutralize the acid then emptied that into an empty 5 and killed a lot of ant beds around my property. Then the acetone to remove the water, quick hit with the leaf blower and then the Red-Kote. Sloshed that around completely covering the tank and let that drain out into another 5 then direct sunlight for 30 minutes, then another round with the leaf blower. Then I put that bitch on a shelf and got drunk. It was very nerve wracking for this 'ol boy, but when all was said and done I was and still am proud of what I did. You see, I hate following directions.

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

I borrowed ideas from these two guys and added a few of my own from past motorcycle tank plus the instructions from Red-Kote. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/ https://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

I've done two tanks and it's not hard. You have to get everything together and plan it out as things have to be done pretty quick. 10 years ago it was $50 for all the chemicals. The only thing is letting it cure for about a month, most important. So if your in hurry to get on the road buy a new one. If not clean and coat it yourself. A gallon of acid, $5, couple boxes of baking soda, $5, gallon of acetone $10, quart of red-kote $30. Plenty of empty 5 gallon buckets and a leaf blower.

You can also bench test it before you reinstall it. Quite a few articles here on the site referencing that.

@Mike That Land Cruiser is Sweet! I’ve been looking for that exact model in Pristine for a while. If you ever decide to get rid of her please let me know.

Go down to the "Push Rod Considerations" section of this link: https://www.evcreate.com/installing-the-ibooster/

Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

My parents were partners in a Toyota dealership so I’ve always had a Toy in the herd.i have a Tacoma that I delegated to shop truck a few months back after the Only Fans girl across the street backed in to the front of it. We have a Lexus NX350 as well. Love your Landcruiser but that BMW is 🤯

Good thread! I get to pick my DD based on need... 2000 Lexus LX470 (Landcruiser) But mostly drive this daily: 2014 BMW Z4 (E89) Manual

We have a thread for guys who daily drive their Z car. But it occurs to me that those of us who love the Z, probably daily drive something pretty interesting as well… This is me. I’ve owned Z cars longer, but became a Porsche guy along that path. (I have 5) my daily driver is a Porsche Macan GTS. 400HP 0-60 in 4.4 seconds. Numbers that don’t mean a thing in traffic. But, it’s great to be able to kick it down and humble the Kia’s trying to do the traffic weave. So comfortable too… 8 years old, 40K miles. I love every minute of driving it. Only downside is all the freakin’ buttons you have to press to get everything the way you want it. I rationalize though that it isn’t unlike preflight when you fly a plane. What is your daily?. 🤓

In its native installation, it can be more complex. I think the brake pedal has position sensors. Not sure if that is a safety thing. It could be redundant feedback. Similar to drive by wire with sensors to measure gas pedal position and throttle position.

Yes, for the hand throttle

Either he's making it harder than it should be, or this is not a conversion for the faint of heart.

Here's someone adapting the iBooster to a Z32.