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I may have inadvertently covered up that wire when I re-wrapped all my harnesses several years ago (what a FUN time that was). In any case, I've decided to go with a fuse tap in the main fuse box on the 20 A FLASHER fuse, which is the only circuit in the box that is KEY-ON activated. Will use a 10 A fuse for my Retrosound Motor 4 radio, Vintage Air HVAC controller and Valentine One radar detector. Frankly, until yesterday I didn't know such a thing as a fuse tap existed. Ran across it when searching online how to hard-wire my radar detector. Really happy now that I swapped the OEM fuse box for an ATO-style one from Motorsport Auto.

Never mind. Just my poor memory. They're out there. Blue on blue seems uncommon though.

Could you do the voltage measurement test while everything is cold and working correctly? Too much current will be shown by a voltage drop, and possibly overheating. If voltage shows high current then you can focus on solving that problem. Or at least confirm that you have another bad module. Ideally Mallory would have provided more tests to confirm that the system as a whole is correct for module longevity.

1970 SERIES 1 !!! 🥴 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-139/

@Kats had posted this picture of cars driving off the assembly line. He also posted the engine test cell for the L series.

Did Nissan do any promotional or internal videos showing the Shatai assembly line?

I have a little more information after some testing. These measurements are all with the car cold. The primary terminals on the coil measures 0.5 ohms The positive terminal to the secondary coil wire terminal is 12.8 K ohms I have two ballast resistors that I'm labeling as R1 and R2 in the diagram. The R1 measures 1.3 ohms while R2 measures 1.7 ohms. Resistor 1 has a third terminal that I didn't test.

I found a 12v switched wire here under the blue tape. Used it for my fan controller that I put on the firewall. I did do the headlight relays where I removed the voltage regulator when I did the internally regulated alternator.

Working on PCV again, I am going to try for the exhaust. My basic plan is, valve cover to stock pcv valve, to a catch can, then block to the catch can, catch can to the exhaust.

Just incase you know anyone interested :) Something a bit different- a competition to win a 240z reprodution bundle. Win the bundle- £5 ticket. Enter Raffle to Win Datsun 240z series 1 reproduction bun...Reproduction fuse cover/ash tray for the 240z Datsun Series 1. Comes with asa silver ring insert, lid pins and a stainless steel snuffer plate. *not to be used with hot embers & Datsun 240z series 1

I bought some service tools off the bay decades ago. Along with two boxes, here's what I have.

...and the photo comes from the FIA 3022 fiche, which is for the S30 Fairlady Z-S and Z-L, so not on the "240Z assembly line". It was the S30-series Z assembly line.

As discussed in the thread where the photo was Hoovered from: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68900-finally-found-a-69-240z-51-time-to-finish-a-30-year-multiple-owner-restoration/page/16/

Interesting picture of the rear subframe / suspension. My mustache bar is E4101 and this picture is E4100. My NA parts book says E4101 also. Makes me wonder if the E4101 was NA export spec.

I'm glad its not common. the previous owner did some weird stuff to this car in the 80s to make it look a certain way. im not so happy im the one who chose to remove all this bondo and booger welds. Ohwell. i guess this is what i signed up for when i wanted a project car. hopefully there isnt as much rust on this car as others.

Haha! No, thankfully I have never seen that modification.

@Mike , I've been reporting the posts as well. Is the "report" function working?

@Mike They are multiplying!! This is number three in the last week or so!!

The new flahers fixed the issue. We also connected the brake lights up so the JDM rear taillights are all connected and work properly

No, that is not a common restomod. If you're careful you might be able to salvage the cowl. But it's thin and easily bent. If you destroy it they are not too hard to source A die grinder with a thin cut off wheel is your best bet

Should be 2 screws on each end.

Is it common for these cars to also Weld the Cowel panel to the fender? I just grinded down the bondo he put connecting the fender and cowel and its welded as well. I dont think he though anyone would ever need to replace the wiper motor. haha. might need to buy a new cowel :S

An awesome project, Nils! Combining two genuine Swiss 240Zs to build one solid car is a great plan. It’s always inspiring to see classic Zs getting a new life, can’t wait to see your progress and updates!

A new BaT offering...

All good! Thank you so much for this feedback, we will work on it and you will see the result soon. And whenever you are in Europe, reach out and we will roll out the red carpet if you want to visit the museum. A lot of people from the US already visit it when they did a Europe tour.