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If the stub isn't locked in securely, it's not safe to drive, especially with CVs that don’t limit travel like stock half-shafts do. Make sure your builder verifies side gear depth and clip retention before reinstalling.

Here in Panama we use 95 fuel. Mechanic advised to use an octane booster. The thing is how much in half full 16 gallon tank? The whole can or half and then fill up the rest of the tank with 95 fuel?

I was about to go get some dry ice to work on clearing old sound deading but I found this under the carpet. This isn't factory correct? As long as I don't find rust on the underside side I think I'll leave it. Looks too hard to remove fully. Or suggestions are welcome.

Those axles are definitely different lengths.

Before you get too far you might as well find the ECU. The brain box. It's over by the driver's left leg, behind the kick panel. It controls the injectors. Unless you're planning to run carbs.

Ewwwwwww. They coated the boards. "Conformal coating" it's called. Looks like every place the coating wasn't perfect, the metal underneath corroded. So the P.O. commuted underwater to get to work every day?? ☺️

Thank you, removing a R200 3.9 open, I'll check the sub lengths on this diff.

One of them is incorrect for the diff then. That's just the way they were built. You can see it in the eBay picture and in the illustrations. One is longer than the other. That's why you get the same result when you swap them. Because yours are the same length when they shouldn't be. If you bought the diff used it might be that the seller popped the axles out for storage and gave you a mismatched set by accident. I used to have several R200's and I stored them with the axles removed sometimes. Anyway, in short...your stub axles should be of two lengths, not one. Good luck.

Both axles are the same length on this diff. we flopped them just to make sure, same result, driver side sits out.

well, looky what I found.... Some carb cleaner and it will be good as new I guess I ll be having fun with the HEI

Yes, sub axles. Driver side sitting 3/16" outside the carrier side versus the passenger side which is flush to the carrier side.. Explanation was due to the internal spacers.

The seller says it was put back to original color. The pictures of when it was red show green on the firewall and the floor. Overall, in the comments, there is much enthusing over a pile of parts. A shiny paint job will do that.

Pictures would help. When you say yoke do you mean flange? And when you say yoke again do you mean "stub axle"? Nissan calls them flange assemblies, most people call them stub axles. The original axles are of different lengths, side to side. Sounds like you're rebuilder might have put a long one where a short belongs. Notice the different part numbers from the carpartsmanual. https://ebay.us/m/jAyp3m Datsun Z Differential Gear, Pinion & Cover (R200)

Had a local gear shop (recommended in the Z community) rebuild a R200 LSD (clutch style) 3.7. picked up the diff and noticed the driver side yoke was not sitting flush with outside edge of the side seal. Passenger side was flush to the outside edge of the seal. Can tug on the yoke by hand and it pop's out. It engages the clip but is not solid in place. Passenger side needs a slide hammer puller. Took a mic measurement inside the carrier to the clip the diver side is just under a 3/16" shorter to the clip. Both yokes are the same length swapped the yokes no change in diver side, clip in style yokes. The shop has suggested this is due to the carrier offset? assume internal spacers? Running Z Car Garage CV axles. Anyone experience this issue? Under the cars weight and load should I worry about the yoke pop out?

I'm a big fan of having a vacuum gauge on the balance tube (and plugging the emmissions holes). If the engine isn't healthy, it doesn't matter how the carbs are tuned. Compression, Timing, then Carbs. The vaccum gauge is a wonderful tool to see the health of the engine. I

Yes. Gasket and heat shield in one goofy thing..

While it looks nice and will make a good starting point why was the color changed to a non Datsun Z car color? The late Paul Taylor's 240 has emerged from the shadows and is for sale @ Carolina Muscle Cars for 125K.

Not odd at all. It's the same reason that British Standard threads were used on a "Japanense" car in the 1950s and early 1960s. Nissan's tie-up with Austin. Wait 'til you hear about Imperial wheel diameters and PCDs... https://www.nissan-global.com/EN/HERITAGE_COLLECTION/short_story/en_p13-01.html

Perfectly? That seems unlikely. It's odd enough that a British thread pitch would be used on a Japanense car in the late 60's/early 70's. Why would British be used on the block and US on the balance tube? Chaos! Your thread chaser might cut some new threads though. People have used NPT in the oil pressure sender hole and made it work. Soft metal will distort.

I salvaged a fitting, barb to male taper thread. A 1/8" NPT 27 threads tap lines up perfectly with the fitting I just pulled. That's what I'm going to chase the threads with, using lots of teflon tape, and install 1/8 pipe plugs. I have lots of brass hex stock available, I'll probably just make my own plugs.

That one is tempting....my favorite color.

Here's a puzzle for somebody. Comes with a car cover. No reserve. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-330/

I used BSPT fittings on the N33 balance tube I have in my 260Z when I was doing the fuel injection conversion.

Read the articles here about the GM HEI module, if you find that your wiring is smoked or the factory Transistorized Ignition Unit (TIU), aka ignition module, is gone. You can run wires in the engine bay directly from that terminal block with the green and red wires. https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/electrical/