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The connector is definitely factory and is shown on the wiring diagram. The blue wire splits with one wire going to another resistor and on to the C-4 connector and the second wire that leads to what's labeled as a "full transistor ignitor unit" (FIU) (whatever that is). The black with blue wire goes to the C-5 connector The black with white wire goes to the emergency switch, the FIU and the Inter Lock (sic) switch.

Can you post a picture of your floats? It should not look like a ramp, more like a hump. They should look like this... Not like this...

Well? Did you remember? 🤪

It was on “X” also

😶‍🌫️

I might have something, I'll check later when its light out.

And now he says - I’m out ! I had a hard time reading this guy but don’t think he was ever a serious Z owner/buyer . Good luck - I said Moving on

Mark: I can't tell you how many hours I've spent on these carbs. I bought them used and had no idea how much the person I bought them from messed with them. I've spent many hours trying to get the fuel to the proper level in the bowls. I purchased some sight glasses from Z Therophy so I can actually see the level in the bowls, but I've found that is a waste of time. The best way I've decided is turning the nuts down 10 turns, 10 mm. Taking the domes off and letting the fuel pump fill the bowls, take a look down into the nozzles. I think I'm still about 2mm low, don't know how critical that is. I cannot start the engine. I can start it on ether but can't keep it running, I think it is still too lean. I need to get back to the float adjustment again. If you have been following this thread, I added I believe 6 grams of weight to each float, so when at the proper level, the floats are level, not pressing against the tops. Again, I'll report back. Jim

No, they are not... I believe they came from Datsport in Australia who for the longest time was one of the only places to have some of the wagon weatherstripping Do you have a 510 door or trim with any remnants on it?

Hmmm. I don't recognize either of those. Are those original Datsun w/s?

I am trying to come up with a working dome lamp out of my collection None of the candidates have continuity across the spade terminals. One of them has continuity from the switch terminals on each side of the switch but not through the rivets on out. Any thoughts on how to repair the continuity? Any thoughts on where to find a replacement switch. I have two that need switches

Did you see where this thread ended up? Once the thread's purpose is served why not use it to have a conversation? Nothing wrong with that.

We love having you here Cliff!

You are correct, I apologize it was the BPT clip that failed. I'm responsible for this off ramp of @chaseincats thread. I get bored and try to add to the forum but always end up confusing people. I'm the one that is confused and it's bad wiring since the day I was born. Please try and overlook my bad days as I try my best to add some good days as well.

Killl...kiiilll...KILLLL

Just about everything I own has some type of emotional value or I would not have it. But you are absolutely right, moving on was a wise decision. I can only hope to be wise some day.

That person made a wise decision!!!

So I need some help on the door glass sweeps I have two seals. A small one I believe it fits in the channel at the top of the door on the inside of the glass?? Not sure on the orientation The other is larger It's fuzzy on one side and I assume it goes on the chrome trims on the outside of the door to sweep the exterior of the glass?? I tried to find any decent pictures online but I couldn't find any @grannyknot Maybe somebody has a Dime they could make some pictures for me?

35-45 buys alot more car these days than it did two years ago

Now the gentleman has requested I find him a Z ! He says his budget is 35-45k . I should be able to find something nice enough in that range I believe .

I'm with Zed Head. That thing is all kinds of wired wrong. There is no reason to have two ballast resistors. I'd start over and clean that all up. To help the process... Is the "three pin connector" a stock connector, or is that something that came with the unilite? Can you provide the wire colors going to that connector?

Confused how this post got into this thread.

That crack is original, not aftermarket. lol

The pics I showed are from work I've done in the past. The header pic was the only one I could find that showed enough of the header. That engine went into a 240 Z that I did for one of my customers, and the efi was a job I did for a different customers car which was a 77 or 78 280 Z. I attached the pics strictly as an example to show how the job is done for the intake mod and the other was to show which is the best style of header to use. I"m not aware of an EGR recall on the 280's. Are you confusing it with the BPT valve recall? ZMOW

That EGR tube was a recall from Nissan and if you had the work done there was a sticker inside the hood on the passenger's side. The pics show efi then carbs. Which 1 you running?