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Thank you for your reply, because I just came to this forum, I am a newcomer and I am not very familiar with it. But it is not difficult, I will do it. Have a nice day

The 17 digit VIN didn't start on the Z line until 1981. As @Patcon mentioned, the VIN does not contain much in the way of a build code. For the 79 & 80, I'm not sure where the paint code was located. It might be a foil sticker on the radiator support, like the S30. It looks like later years of the ZX had the information you want on the plate in the engine bay. This site may be able to provide you with more information: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s130.html It has color codes for the interior and exterior: https://xenonzcar.com/s130/colorchart.html

Welcome to our club. I suggest you look around at the forums, and pick one that interest you related to your questions.

I do not believe that information is available. The Marti report came about when Ford was going to dispose of all the build sheets from that era. Somebody aquired them and saved them. When you get a marti report they are finding the proper build sheet and providing the info, for a fee. IIRC

😛

Hello has anyone here have experience with running ITM piston rings? About to get into my rebuild and have read some not so great opinions on them. I tried looking for some 0.020" oversized rings and can't seem to find anything but ITM and Hastings.

hello everyone, I am trying to find out how can you decode a vin number. i have a 1980 datsun 280zx first 6 is hgs130 which tells me H- L28E G- 2+2 s130 car model then rest is serial number which has 6 numbers. I have found all that info. Mine was manufactured between 8/79 - 6/80 So, vin is only 12 numbers and no where can I find anything about the vehicle as color code, transmission, etc. My dad works on classic mustangs so he can send in for what's called a Marti report and tells you that your vehicle is x or x with this trim color etc. that's what I am looking for. Can anyone help me out?

Case closed update: I had my seats re-foamed and the ride is great now. I was surprised how big a difference that made, but we're sitting pretty now. Thanks all!

Why is there Chinese

Don't you know that most Koreans only speak Chinese?

The internet is a strange place.

This is my 944 and 911, although not a Datsun. But I am now looking to buy a Datsun 240z, the car is in perfect condition. I am in CA, if the record is not too far away, I can come and see the car in person

Why do you say I'm a robot?

Wow, very nice production and a small necessary detail for proper restorations. Thank you !

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chickens say: tok tok tók! she says: bot bot bótt! ;-)

Maybe i should try to do the radiotor test removing the thermostat to see if the water flows or not!

Yeah, to me the biggie is the change of the body vents from the hatch to the pillars, that is probably the "hardest stake in the ground" item for SN 21001. Is SN 21001 also when the center console moved stuff like the ashtray/lighter, no throttle slot next to the choke lever? I know how the cabin was is my '73 and it had the console I just described with the lighter in the dash.

Hi @jeongjihye , yes there are plenty of us here. Just checking to see if you are really interested in Datsun cars because it's the primary purpose of this car club. Looking at your profile, it looks like you are a Porsche driver?

I suppose you could pull the water pump to see if it has those sheet metal impellers instead of cast. Some of those break off.

Quite right. I was looking at the wrong column.

Oh, I totally get it and agree completely. It's just odd that Datsun put out a document that seemingly delineated the timeline. Sounds like they were trying to differentiate between the two and put a stake in the ground as to "when". So here's a thought... Maybe that VIN of 21001 would be better interpreted as "We've been making changes over the past couple months, and as of VIN 21001, here's a list of what we've changed so far. Moving forward, all the cars will have these changes incorporated." Maybe that's a better way to think about it instead of "As of this VIN, we will be making all of these changes from this point forward." and changing all of them overnight at that VIN.

I should have clarified that if it was only a month or so to the HLS30-21001 "changes" and a line ran out of parts, I'd use the new part.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

Thanks everyone that contributed to this thread. I was repowering my 65 520 pickup upgrading from the J13 to the L18 and had this same issue with my clutch. Read the thread a couple of times, took some measurements and figured it out. The clutch package I used had an integrated throw-out bearing/sleeve so changing sleeves was not an option. I welded a 1/4" spacer onto the ears and now it's 92mm exactly from the flywheel!