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Were you measuring at the ECU connector? Yarb's comment about the connections is a good one. I forgot about that. The temperature sensor especially. Higher resistance means more fuel.

That’s good to know but there are quite a few different components compared to a S30.

Typo on the 79z. It's a 79 zx coupe.

Been There, Done That! Pouring rain. And Nothing like soaked pants on a bike!!

@mayolives Curious why you are calling your car a 79 280Z? Unless you went with the 79 ZX larger booster.

Another plug for PB Exchange, They moved up to Lynnwood WA, I had them rebuild my early booster. Reaction disc pic's

I have one of these I'd be happy to donate. It's a little bowed in the middle, but still has the pins. I'll be in Nashville next week and will bring it along in case you still need one. Good luck on your drive!

This should probably be in the carb discussion section rather than electronics.

Thank goodness for U-Haul and credit cards. At worst you rent a truck and trailer. I drove a "crotch rocket" to the French Quarter one time and there was no way in hell I was riding it back home. Got the smallest van and loaded that bike up. 😄

Bruce, good luck on your trip! Looking forward to some pictures from the event.

Myself and others here on the forum have had great success with Power Boosters Exchange. They are located in The North West. Rebuilt my original and they also can powder coat it for you.

Yarb and Patcon, Both mentioned the "reaction disk" and that I needed to be carefull how I delt with it. It's been many years since I replaced a brake booster on a Z car and I don't remember having to deall with the "reaction disk". I searched my FSM and can't find any mention of a reaction disk. I haven't found it listed on any of the drawings either. Please tell me more about it. Also, where can I find a rebuilder for my booster? I'm in SC.

@Captain Obvious I wouldn't worry about the OG making it as you know how to fix it whatever goes wrong. You're not some rank amateur setting out blindly on a journey naively hoping all will be well. You know your car inside and out and and have so much experience with Z cars I reckon you could rebuild a seized engine on a remote Tibetan pass. My beach bomb 240Z is called Louey and definitely a "him". I've never thought of cars as females.

IMSA car. Now in Glen’s care.

Maybe you're worried about making it because you know too much. Back in 2015, I drove the 260Z to Memphis with carburetors that were too lean, an exhaust leak near the muffler and badly worn out rear bushings. I didn't know about the problems, so I didn't worry. 😁 I made it there and back just fine. If I had the carburetors richer, I might have hit triple digits on the front straight during the parade laps. My biggest worry then was I knew who did the brakes and how much he paid for them. That just proves my point. You worry about what you know.

It just happens. Some cars are her, and some are him. This one happens to be a him. The OG would sound funny to me being a her. ☺️ I've cleaned off most of the dust, but the "will it make it" part of the journey won't be over until I get there!! Hahahaha!!! Jury is clearly still out!

Pretty late to the party but both Z’s in the video where (I believe) owned by the same guy at that time. He unfortunately sold the orange one and repainted the gray Z to yellow but ultimately sold that car as well for a BMW E92 M3. He now goes by @Dutch_e92m3 on Instagram.

Yeah here in the Netherlands not so much. You can get into serious trouble if you’re caught by the police or “Handhaving” (translated to peacekeepers, basically police without weapon rights and with a main goal to be assholes and write tickets) or get into an accident (voids all insurance and you will be 100% liable for everything). That sad I did take it around the block when I got it home and even though the car runs rich as hell it still drive pretty good. Had some time to look at the car yesterday evening and I might have found the problem. When measuring the resistance values of the AFM and temperature sensors I noticed the coolant temperature sensor (2 pin) suddenly dropping down to only 2 ohm! So I guess that the temperature sensor is bad after all. I hope I can find a replacement as they can be hard to get over here and after that verify the AFM is set correctly.

I don't want to be a buzzkill or a distraction or stir up a controvery if it's controversial - but why are you calling your car "him". I've noticed its use in some other places but I don't know where it came from. Is there a backstory? Seriously, I don't know, but it looks odd. I grew up with "her" or "she", which is probably not PC today, but "it" seems like the natural default. Anyway, good luck on the trip and the event. Should have made a "will it run and drive" video. There's still time for the "will it make it" part. A barn find with the dust still on it will probably draw more attention than the resto's.

Let me explain this better. My mechanic is trying to fix rough idle issues when my car is at idle during long traffic jams. He removed the Pertronix 1.5 ohm resistor and the 1.5 ohm resistor connected to a Pertronix ignitor 1711 module, and installed an MSD Blaster 2 coil. The tachometer in my 1972 240Z is no longer working? Any ideas of how should i wire this so it brings my tach back to life.

I need one hatch vent. One of these: Anyone got an old one they could part with. I don't care if the mounting pins on the back are intact or not. I'll just glue it on at this point! ☺️

I drove out to a buddy's place today. I've got about 300 miles on him so far. Day five is behind me:

It's a pumpkin (or some kind of squash) seed and a bunch of other small seeds. Apparently that can happen when you store your car for years with the radiator cap off. I don't know what was living in there, but it had quite a comfortable home. Here's some background history... I saw critter evidence junk in the radiator. Flushed out as much as I could with a hose. Drove the car. and the temps started out fine, but started to creep up the longer I drove. Drained the radiator looked in the top, and there was junk in it again. Apparently some debris was now circulating around the cooling system. So I pulled the radiator and dug/flushed/picked out as much debris as I could and put it back in. This time, however,,, No messing around. I installed a "filter" between the head outlet and the inlet of the radiator with the hope that it would catch debris coming out of the block before it got into the radiator. The filter was a metal screen sock that's used on your washing machine outlet so you don't dump lint into your plumbing. And it just so happens it fit's well into the radiator hose. Looks like this: Chain mail condom: Stuff it into the top radiator hose: Drive around for a couple minutes and I catch this debris before it gets back into the radiator: Rinse and repeat. This is the third time I cleaned out the filter. Probably an hour of engine run time. The amount of debris getting caught is decreasing: I've since pulled it a couple more times and it's almost clean. I can probably remove the filter at this point.

I just purchased some parts from UAE and Spain, pre-August 29 tariff effective date. Speedy delivery and low shipping costs via ebay. For obscure parts, identify a ebay seller based overseas who have extensive listings and ask if they have (or can locate) the parts. Keith

I understand "not supposed to be on the road". Where I live, I routinely take my unfinished cars around the block to help get them sorted. It's never been a problem but some areas aren't as flexible...