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Found that funny.. can i get me a body in that shop!? 🤣 My tip? avoid anything that starts with "123"

@siteunseen He's talking about the C not the W type gearbox, a Fs5C71B is a european ( and asian??) gearbox used in the 240z with 5 speeds. THe C has Porsche steel synchro's and the W box has brass synchro's. The C box is much more rare than the W box i understand.. BTW, in what country are you @wutsin It does no longer stand in your reply.. @Mike it would be handy to have the countryname in the reply's as it ones did.. :-/

Hi, If you have a lot of vibrations you need to solve those but if your 5th gear pops out of gear your spring(s?) in the main plate (between the 2 halves of the gearbox) are to short and have not enough pressure anymore.. I solved this by putting in a new spring or make the old spring longer with use of a side cutter pliers! Just note on a paper the length at start and make the spring a few mm longer by cracking the spring rings with the pliers, You need to cut into the air between the springrings .. sort off.. i hope you understand what i;m saying haha, let the piers do the job, do it little by little so the spring stays straight!

Yes one time - and then found the issue that the nut was super loose. I tighten it but then the gap between last wascher and gear/gearbushing is too tight so it would block the gearings. We loosen the nut just a tiny bit and then we welded the nut with a tiny spot. All good so far but when i accelerate super hard from 120kmh to 180kmh the 5th jumps out by 140kmh or so. if i would accellerate slow to 180 - it would be no problem. So i thought i need to investigate a bit more and then i found a thread where someone placed somewhere there a new created 0.00xx milimeter thin brass washer. --- I assume that the no. 64 is to tight to 54 and thats the reason why there is basically no gap between 55 and 64 and therefore the gear 48 is blocked. The OLD post was around MAI 2024 still online and someone explained the same issue and postet a few pages with images and stuff he tried. ___ ill replace the transmission now with an 280zx close ratio and then ill have a look again and try to rebuild it.

I can inspect it in the morning

What is the condition of your distributor bushings? Meaning is there any wobble/back and forth movement when you move the shaft? If so you might want to go with a new system. IMO

Hey Cliff put on your Librarian Glasses and solve this one!!

Anyway, lots of good information not sure I have a final simple answer on which system to go with at the moment. The car is being restored pretty much bone stock except for larger intake and exhaust valves from a 280Z in the cylinder head. So. race, fancy, adjustable is probably not something that would be much of a value to me as I'm looking for a simple plug and play conversion. Much like the fireball unit I put in my 1956 GMC truck 30 plus years ago. My neighbor across the street recommended Pertronix 91761 igniter II Hitachi. Any thoughts on going that direction? Thanks guys

Oops, I looked for 1982 which uses the E12-92 module ( not available) and searched E12-80 on the internet. Thanks for checking. The Rockauto E12-80's look like they came from the same mold. Two choices. $42 or 126.

Iirc three M5 machine screws in the armrest area...12mm length or so

Matchboxes appear to be available here https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,ignition,ignition+control+module+(icm),7172

Have you had the transmission apart yet?

Hey @siteunseen i already asked @EuroDat upfront befor i startet this topic - he also knows the topic and we both can not find it anymore could it be on a different forum ? // iam pretty sure that i red about the fix here.....

Forgot to say that you can wire up a GM HEI module to both the Z and ZX electronic distributors.

I did a quick shoparound and can't find the E12-80 module, for the ZX distributors, for sale anywhere, new. Only eBay used is out there. I did run across a Mallory Unilite module for $83 on Summit. Pertronix conversions are still out there. You could use one of those to trigger an MSD6AL or a GM HEI module. The Pertronix module should last longer since it won't see the coil current. Or it might be fine as-is. The 123 looks nice in that it seems to have current limiting in the module so you can get a higher energy spark, and the advance curves are tunable. One problem with old used distributors is you get the advance curves that they came with usually, unless you can dig up other weights or vacuum advance canisters. Fun problem to have. Good luck. https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-6-r-v-datsun/ 123ignition is proud to announce the first fully programmable Bluetooth ignition! Control your 123\TUNE+ with your iOS/Android smartphone or tablet. The App makes it possible to adjust the ignition curve and shows an electronic dashboard. Main features: REV-counter, Antitheft system by a PIN code, Real time tuning, Vacuum advance, Boost retard, Soft REV-limiter, etc. Cylinders 6 Model Tune+ Operating voltage 4-15V Positive earth supported Yes Wires Black: coil '-' , Blue: battery negative , Red: ignition key (battery 6V / 12V) Vacuum Yes Rotation direction CW & CCW IE (D-jetronic support) No RPM range 500-10.000 RPM Brand Datsun Environmental temperature -30 – 100 °C Cap type Straight Dwell Constant current: fully automatic adaptive dwell Coil charging time-out After 1 second, coil current is turned off Spark balancing <0.5 degrees Maximum advance 40 degrees crankshaft

Something that is functional easy to install and gives me zero trouble for the next 20 years. I’m not too concerned about looking fancy or. correct. I just want something that’s trouble free once I’ve gone through the steps to install. It. Don’t wanna have to go backwards and fuss with it later. I’m out working on the car now. I’ll have more time to research when I get back in my office this evening. Thanks to all the input I’ve received.

Do you want something that looks "factory" or time period correct or just something functional? With the 123 you don't really need the MSD unless you want the multi-spark. I would beware of the old names. Many have been sold to conglomerates that source the manufacturing to low cost overseas factories. If it was me I'd look for a system that has readily available replacement modules. Some of the old name brands are expensive to fix if the modules fail.

EDIT: Your work looks fantastic! I run a 280 radiator with a full ZX shroud on mine. 173F at idle sitting in my garage without any air flowing into the front. Here's the two that helped me the most on my ZX swap. It works great with my Fireball PS20 coil. Bought the dizzy and coil from amazon.com If you'll read Mr Moore's 1st post down at the bottom he's created an Excel spreadsheet with all the different values. I chose the 1979 and was lucky enough to get one back in 2015 I think. You'll need the ZX base. Maybe Junkyard Jenny would have one? I was lucky enough to find one at a local junkyard. The atlanticz.ca thread shows the installation on a 280 but there's a wiring diagram on there too for the 240Z. I can't really remember but I think I run 17 degrees at idle and 34 at 3,000 RPM. Sorry for my poor memory, too many motorcycle wrecks involving my head. 😁 https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

And there is that thread on the valve cover breather and trying to find something that will convert it to AN or NPT to run a catch can hose. Seen infinite discussions about it, what folks did to change it, and even some fitting for RB engines someone found that fits, but still waiting to have the actual size stated.

The 1979 to 1983 matchbox distributor is a good upgrade.

I'm not planning on putting the original distributor points and condenser system back on my 71 240Z. A friend of mine is telling me to use a 123 ignition and an MSD6AL. Good or? Years ago I installed electronic fireball ignition system on an old GMC truck that I still have. I've never once had a problem with that upgrade. I'd like to do the same thing with the Z. Anyone have experience and advice to point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for the group's help. Restoration update as of 12-16-25.

I remember reading an industry website several years ago where the writer predicted that the only distinction between mainstream brands of power tools would be aesthetics (colours, textures, legacy, etc). Looking at what I see in 2025's North American market, I'm inclined to agree. But I think that only applies to ~ revered old-school USA brands like Porter, DeWalt, B&D, etc. For comparison, look at what's happened to old-school non-automotive brands like 'Schwinn', 'Singer', 'Sunbeam', 'GE', 'RCA', etc. Offshore' brands (Bosch and Makita come to mind) might have a little more to offer than just marketing. Unfortunately, there's no universally-accepted evaluation standard. These days, it's just the 'Wild Wild West' of YouTube evaluators Caveat emptor.

Hi, I have worked some minor things for mirrors, horns etc. Fairlady Z series has mirrors on the front fenders and the way they mount is completely different from the one for the US. Mirrors have to be flexible when they hit something. The horn, the Higher tone has “H” and te lower tone has “L” shown on the bracket. You see S12, I am sure S means 1969, 12 means December. It makes sense to my 01/1970 Z432. My two 03/1970 cars have T2, indicating 1970 February. Also my 1972 June 240ZG has V6, The rules seemed to apply for all of my cars. Kats

Wasn't offended. Just surprised that you used a term from the 1980's!

Naw, just realized I was venting out of bounds. 🙂 I've got a lot to spew but this isn't the place for all that spewing, I'm sorry if I offended you.