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YES!! Glad to have you back :)

Wow! 😝

I’m not sure, maybe you’ve worked this out while I’ve been in exile. I have to assume stock L-Jetronic EFI? If so, open the air flow meter and tighten the spring a bit.

Miss me Steve?

So did you replace just the electrical part and save your keys?

Installed the new switch and she's back to starting as she should. As a note to others, there is a short video (Google) on how to go about replacing an ignition switch on an old Z. I found this was helpful.

April 1970

Check out the attached

Take a picture of the ASAHI stamp on the window, and post it here. The dots tell the dates.

Got it, I'll give it a look. Thanks!

I mean both, but better to remove wipers and pull cover. I had this exactly problem. We welded a patch in the floorboard at that spot to repair it. Also repaired the holes in the cowl around the air intake. So the water was leaking down the inside under the carpet so you couldn't really see it.

Do you mean pull the cowl plate off and look or looking up from the passenger footwell?

Check the area under the cowl cover where the wiper motor is. The air intake tends to rust out under there allowing was to run down the firewall to the very spot where your rust hole is. If that is rusted through you'll need to repair that as well.

Some options to investigate: https://upgarageusa.com/pages/nos-parts-we-have-instock-for-1969-1995-z-cars https://vintagerubber.com/datsun-240z-260z-front-bumper-guard-over-rider-strip-kit-69-72/ https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/front-bumper-over-rider-vertical-strip-set-for-datsun-240z I believe I have a spare set of aftermarket ones as well - I think of decent quality. Let me know if you would like to see some pics of them.

I just switched to OEM flasher relays and tried it with the LEDs still installed. No change. The lights come on but don’t flash. Then I pulled the LEDs and put incandescent bulbs in, which totally fixed it. So it’s the flashers and/or the LEDs and not the wiring. I am going to try swapping the wires over the weekend and putting the LEDs back in (no time right now. Work deadlines). If that fixes it I’ll just leave it like that until I get around to buying new relays.

I used the two prong electronic flashers for a while after converting to LEDs. I found that some of them had spotty performance. After that I switched to 3 prong flashers and grounded the third prong. That has provided reliable performance for years.

If someone is looking for an original Bosch version of the 280Z auxilary air valve here is one in NOS condition. Its for a 1976 Porsche 924, but it's a very similar system. Marktplaats≥ Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88) — Motor en...Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88)Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924-Porsche 924, 2.0liter-Voor koude start regeling (lucht)-Bosch-Getest en

I haven't messed with that flasher, but I have a couple ideas... First, yes, it is completely conceivable that the electronic flasher is susceptible to polarity issues. I'd certainly make sure you have it wired with the load on the "L" pin and power on the "+" as shown in that diagram. I found a couple other pics of that flasher from other vendors, and the mounting tab is not electrically connected in any way. So forget about the below. Second, does that "two wire" flasher need to be mounted with it's tab attached to ground? In other words, is it really a three wire flasher, but they don't count the third wire because they might be making a ground connection through the mounting tab? Just some ideas.

They definitely were. Did that cause the brakes pads to tighten on the rotors? There was some brake dust everywhere. I ended up doing 3 things at once, flushing the brake fluid. Disassembled the calipers, and repack and set the wheel bearings correctly. The wheel bearings heating up may have caused air in the brake fluid to expand and tighten the brakes, I don't know. I just finished it off by adjusting the pedal to the floorboard distance, it was 7", now it's 8". Same with the clutch pedal, it was an inch off. Then set the master-vac push rod length to 3.5mm below the flange surface. I had backed everything off while 15 miles away trying to get home, not knowing what was going on. Things are looking good now.

That’s a first for me to hear. Not sure how that explains the heat problem you are describing?

So wheel bearings were too tight??

So I just did these seals on a manual transmission. The large Oring seal seals the drive body to the transmission case. I'm not sure the little top hat seal would seal anything out. The small square sided seal goes inside the speedometer gear drive body. It seals the speedometer cog shaft. If this seal gets hard or goes bad, liquid leaks up into the cable housing until it finds a way out. Usually a crack in the speedo cable housing. I replaced mine and the floor under the car has stayed dry. I will have to check the fluid levels again soon to make sure it's still full but I believe those two seals are the solution

Okay, found my first error. The flashers aren’t flashing. I had replaced both the TS flasher and the hazard flasher with one of these LED-specific flasher relays. When the switch is thrown the lights come on, but they are just on, no flashing. Unplug the flasher and there are no lights, which makes sense because the circuit is broken in that scenario. I swapped an aftermarket replacement for the stock one into the spot for the turn signals, but there was no change. I haven’t had a chance to get to the one for the hazards yet. Any thoughts? Edit: After looking at the spec diagram on the red relays and comparing the marking on the original relays, I’ve found that the polarity is backwards. This flasher relay has the pins flipped from the one I am using and is the one I should have bought. Maybe if I swap the wires in the connector it will fix it. I just blanked on checking this.

Going to do that tomorrow. Hope that will pin point the leak.