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Cody figured out the turn signals today. The signal flasher is a thermal variety even though it looks like an electronic flasher it's not. If we add just one incandescent bulb it flashes as it should. So I ordered some that are electronic with an additional ground. We'll see how they do. He also replaced all the bulbs in the dash gauges with LED's

@Mike It's still a bot!!

Are you sure your exhaust can breathe properly? Possibly the exhaust system could be a variable.

searching for a potentiometer is not so easy now adays. i miss radio shack.

I don't know if this is accurate, but for the L20, this site says the distributor orientation is different than what I would expect. https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/firing-order-datsun-l-series.html

Thank you for that info, ill see what i can get done. i would like to see if this would be a main cause and a fix verse a bandage. In the long run im doing to be redoing most of this with more modern technology so it might be a moot point.

So status, we figured out how to hot wire the car since we don't have an engine bay harness currently @SteveJ :) We have spark and we have fuel but we couldn't get it to fire. Even with Ether... We have good compression and we have the dizzy on the car on the compression stroke. Although the timing isn't set yet. But rotating it while cranking, we didn't get anything. No bump, no belch, no nothing... Valve adjustment was done recently My only idea at this point is that we flooded the engine with all the cranking time to sort the spark and distributors. Any other ideas??

You should never disassemble both sides at the same time! That way you have an assembled one to look at. If you didn't keep the parts well sorted then the auto adjust might not work. The sides are handed I believe

It might be the front, AFM? It'll spit and sputter and buck under load. A lot of folks have done this tweak. I did mine when there was a Radio Shack in every mall. Cost me $5 and it runs like a top.

Is it popping out the tailpipe? If so you should read this. I've got one on my '77. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

I've been getting a 1977 280z up and running after ~20 years sitting. I've replaced all fuel lines, pump, tested for vacuum leaks, etc. I feel like ive tried to tune this thing with the AFM, TPS, and idle screw. If finally have it idling around 800-900 rpms and good power up to ~3000 - 3200 rpms then it feels like it loses engery and sounds like an airy fart. sorry but i dont know how to explain the feeling/sound. it doesnt sound like its about to die b/c its at higher RPM but it feels like it loses all get it up and go. it tried to increase RPM but does very slowly. this is very apparent on 1st and 2nd gear. When i shift into 3rd and 4th i am going fast enough im dont want to floor it. What should i be adjusting? ***side note*** when not in gear I can rev the engine 4-5000+ RPMs and it revs beautifully without hesistations. only when under load.

Do the half shafts in 1975 have replaceable ujoints or are they stakes like the driveshaft?

The good shops can find the specs or just take measurements. And there are aftermarket propeller shafts out there. Nissan calls the center longitudinal shaft propeller and the two "half-shafts" drive. You need to be aware of one big problem with 1975 though - Nissan used a unique flange bolt pattern on the differental. 76, 77, and 78 won't work on a 75. Motorsport Auto (TheZStore) knows, on their Replacement page. But not on their Performance page. Oops. https://www.thezstore.com/category/935/replacement-driveshafts Don't buy a Performance shaft from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/category/827/performance-driveshafts

It looks about right. If you pull on the lever that the cable attaches to you'll see how it works. Each time you pull the parking brake lever that arm over the notched/toothed wheel moves over the teeth. As the brake shoes wear eventually the end of the arm catches one of the teeth and rotates the tightening mechanism, making it longer. When it's assembled correctly the end of the arm sits right on the teeth. An illustration of your picture is in the Brakes chapter.

I recently replaced my rear drum brake hardware but forgot to take a picture before disassembling everything. Can someone confirm if this is how the parking brake lever is supposed to be installed? I’m also not entirely sure how the lever functions in the mechanism. It looks like it might not be mounted correctly — should the lever sit on the right side of the cog wheel? When I place it there, it seems to keep slipping off toward the left side. Any clarification or reference photo would really help. This is the drivers side of the car

Hello, everyone. I am also a member of S30 World. I’m very happy to be a member of the team. Thank you Carl. Carl recommended me to Chris’s big project. In addition, I definitely thank Alan for promising to join the team because I am a member. Chris visited my house in 2018. I was very impressed that he was very sincere about all the variations of our car. And his dream was to establish and enrich the museum with cars that have received great restoration work. It’s all because of the Classic Zcar Club. We have been learning a lot from the people here. I’m making a lot of friends here. We are all connected in a simple way. Z. We know that there are no cars that have been restored 100% correctly. The S30 World is trying to restore the car close to 100% correct. Chris’s great passion is outstanding. Many enthusiasts have been involved in his project. It’s like magnets on the fridge. I think all the posts here are worth reading to make our beloved cars more beautiful. I think people who post here are like magnets too. As Florian said, we are simple. We want to enjoy the S30 more and spread the joy of our cars to the world. If you see the car at the S30 World Museum, you will surely like it. We need to correct the “100% correct” word into the appropriate word. But all the black painted floors and other little things are repaired in good faith, so even if we don’t fix it, you’ll like it. Oh, stay tune, I will report an interesting things regarding S30 World soon. Kats

Any of you guys have had a driveshaft made up. I need the name of a shop that does datsun driveshafts.

I don't see anything wrong with your marketing or terminology. 99.9% of people can see the detail and perfection of work that has gone into these cars. No-one expects God-like perfection. When you are king of the hill, you might have to kick a few people in the face as they try to knock you down.

No worries. You know me - I always like a good background story :-) I researched a bit. Ernst Seiler seemed to be a very illustrious person with a long Porsche racing history. I wasn't able to connect the dots between the two names, but it's very well possible. First I thought it was Heiko (Seiler) from Datsun.ch 's parents former Garage. But he confirmed that they only started in the late 70ies and the name was Garage Seiler in BE. The one mentioned in the booklet is from the AG Canton and the booklet is from the late 60ies or early 70ies, so it's possible that you are right. Interesting nevertheless. In Switzerland, during that period, there were many small, independent garages, but also some big names who quickly started to build large holdings based on small garages, gas stations, etc, and then became big names.

I don't really want to chime in here into this discussion, but I have seen the S30.world cars in real life, and talked a lot to the people behind it and all I can say is: - Those are the best restored Z's I have aver seen. And I have seen plenty of them over the years. - They make their own parts, where new ones are not available anymore, and those parts are the best reproduction parts I have seen, with real attention to details. - The team behind it is OBSESSED with small details and correctness. Down to things like the correct color and position of the bolt-marking dots. Everybody is free to have your own opinion, but I really recommend to check out the cars in real life and talk to the people behind it, and then only you can understand how many extra-miles these guys went to build some of the best restored 240Z's out there.

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

Excellent explanation of roof detailing and support. Proper flashing and sealing are key to preventing leaks and structural stress, especially around transitions and rafters.

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.