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You might also consider using vinyl paint. I used it to re-colour my Z's interior (from black to butterscotch). Pix below should give you an idea of the flexibility and adhesion characteristics (I've seen zero evidence of paint lifting over the ten years since I originally did the application). It sprays on easily using an HVLP gun and doesn't require much in the way of surface prep. It took me three coats to achieve full coverage over the black soft and hard trim pieces. We had a supplier in the Toronto area (Parasol) who would custom mix colors from a customer-supplied paint chip (my results we spot-on, based on a small piece that I snipped from the hem of my new butterscotch seat covers). I expect you'll be able to find a comparable supplier somewhere in the U.S. south-east.

Not that weren’t expecting

Hopefully not too many surprises

I used this on my front air damage prior to paint. Can't remember who recommended it, but seems to work.

Dang, Those almost look like bare metal

The airdam is urethane. It can be tough to get paint to stick to it because it's so flexible.

A social media post caught my eye last week. Facebook Z forum. Some guy had put a Honda Accord electric booster on his Z. I have tried to get more information without success. This is interesting because it doesn’t depend on engine vacuum. With the proliferation of alternator swapping, the extra electrons wouldn’t seem to be a problem. What are your thoughts?

I know most people on this forum want as much stock and original parts as possible but, at least it’s my opinion, maybe some modern upgrades / mods are in order to keep these cars on the road. Aside from all the aftermarket suspension upgrades I know that Apex Engineered also sells new steering racks (with right hand inner tie rods) and just the right hand thread inner tie rods. Replacing just the inner tie rod(s) for right hand thread once might be a good solution for the NLA drivers side outer tie rod. And yes Apex does sell them separately and in pairs. https://apexengineered.com/shop/s30-240z-260z-280z/inner-tie-rod/ No I’m not sponsored I just like what they’re doing and ordered some stuff to fix my 280z.

Is it urethane or fiberglass? Mine is urethane, I caught a flying 2x4 on the left brake vent hole in the airdam @ freeway speed (at first I thought it was coming through the windshield). I now have a starburst in the paint but that's it. My paint is a single stage and we did it back in 1991 so the only details I remember is I called the Denver regional office to get the paint number for a red 1971 early 240Z. the red does have some orange in it, I think code 110.

Hi, I don’t know much about originals of our cars, but if this helps for your reference that would be nice. The L20A is for a Skyline GT but it can be a useful reference. The Kaku -U crew inspecting the cylinder head that was a screen shot from the video of 1969 US & CANADA test drive. Kats

I suppose it depends on what the worry would be. Worry about them failing? Spring sag with age is not uncommon. Did you notice any variance in corner height when they were installed? The thing about aftermarket springs is you don't really know how they'll sit until you get them installed. You can find reports of weirdness with the Eibach progressive rate springs. Don't know if that problem ever got solved. It's a conundrum.

I've seen the free length dimensions in the manual I have but when I'm measuring them on my workbench I'm getting 14 1/2 and 15 and 1/8 total length. So should I not be worried about the half inch variation. Their stock springs and they're 54 years old. A new set of Elbach Springs or $279. set of 4.

Seems to be normal and as Nissan intended. Maybe to offset an imbalance in the car's weight, maybe from the engine tilt. Not clear, although it might be described somewhere. I don't think that the aftermarket considered it.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on a 1971 240Z. I've noticed the coil spring lengths are not the same they're off by 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch regardless of where I measure one of is shorter. Do I need to be concerned about this point? If this is an issue what should I purchase? Thanks In advance.

Too many projects are IMG_2691.movIMG_2691.movdelaying this RHD hs30… Heading to the wetblasting area to determine if anything is left to work with……

Been a while since showing 2446 bones…and she got good bones. Slowly finding time and discipline to prioritize some shop time. It is fun putting a few peices on the rear, dash will be coming out to recover. Had been a while since I have inverted to disconnect heater control cables….throttle lever cable at top of the gas pedal assembly…etc. rear panel is too dark, debating to reshoot to lighter shade….

Quite true, thanks.

Not so much trouble when you know the way things work, eh?

Turbo, Julio. You can do just as well with that P90 head and flat tops on that F54 block. I know you've read this before but I'm gonna post it anyway. https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/

I assumed he was mourning the loss of another turbo block to N/A..............

Success. 54 years old everything is a struggle during tear down.

Yes, the plan is to paint the airdam too. Hopefully it will stick...

I did the yellow/blue wire grounding test. I had both the Floor Temp and Fuel warning lights on. I guess I have an independent to the fuel sender's thermistor issue with the Floor Temp sensor. I will check the relay under the pass seat.

It's just snark if you don't follow it with something useful. Are you sighing the pan question or the build details?

Sigh...