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Something's wrong with the first listing. Broken link. The $589 is "Buy it now" and the other is an auction, with three bids to $56. I don't know if EBay auctions have a reserve or not. I'd guess maybe the seller can just not complete the deal? From what I've seen, the way to set a reserve on eBay is to set the reserve as the minimum bid to beat. Maybe he forgot or doesn't know to do that. The $589 is $539 with a coupon.

Something monkey going on here, ebay made a mistake? They're $56 on one link and $589 on another??? https://ebay.us/m/p2pa92 https://ebay.us/m/DMgyJZ

EuroDat has written a bunch about rebuilding transmissions. Here's one link from Tech Articles. The Resources area is really hard to get through, can't figure out where things are. Really just need a long clean list of every title in the area. Had to use Google to find it. There might be more out there. Search EuroDat's name.

There is a possibility my original 4-speed may need a rebuild. It is my understanding that rebuild kits for the type "A" transmission are NLA, at least in the US. Some questions for our talented membership: Are any of the components of the "B" kit usable in the "A" transmission? Has anyone identified susbstitute components - bearings, bushings, synchros, ...etc.? Roadster parts? Any thoughts on where else to search for a type "A" rebuild kit? I really want to keep my driveline orignal. Swappng to a type "B" transmission is undesireable due to the potential for damage to the console and underlying body to accomodate the change in the shift rod location. I'm open and welcoming to any comments, suggestions and recommendations. Thanks, Jim

Quite a blast from the past. Filling in the "rest of the story".

Still in original packaging, braided steel brake lines. $100 retail - I'll sell at $50 U.S.

Don't forget about the bronze valve seats that came OE in the E31. They're not good with the gas we use now but you can have them updated to steel for not much money if you're not currently running the head.

Those are extremely hard to get. You can sell them easily if someone is going for a high end build.

Thanks for the update. I learn something new every time I comment on this site. Cheers

Random aside that might be relevant - there is also an N42 from the Maxima L24's. Some people call them MN42's. They have a cylinder head temperature sensor hole tapped in below and between the 5 and 6 spark plug holes. Still not correct for your car but could factor in to selling. Desirable for people looking to raise compression ratio on an L28.

Thanks Jim, In that case I have two N 42s for sale. Cheers,

Looks like they are also for sale for $1000 BIN with free shipping. eBayAuthentic OEM Nissan Fairlady Z/Euro 70-78 Datsun 240z S3...A once in a lifetime find here! Original OEM Nissan headlight covers originally designed for JDM/Euro Fairlady Z cars. The OEM trim here looks 100 times better than the flat bar $800 reproduction trim

@Captain Obvious Just had a look on my October 1970 240Z that hasn't been touched since built. It has the flat side up.

Edited after coffee kicked in...strikethrough does not show in the snippet. The idle air screw only adjusts idle RPM, not the fuel-air ratio. It's difficult to lean out the mixture on the EFI engines. Hope that you find something wrong somewhere. Edit - sorry, just looked at your picture and see that you meant the AFM screw. One possible reason for a rich mixture is a leaking fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragm can crack and let fuel directly in to the intake manifold through the vacuum reference hose. Another possibility is a lack of the vacuum on the FPR vacuum port. A disconnected or cracked hose or a connection to the wrong vacuum port. The FPR reduces fuel pressure in proportion to intake vacuum. Check the hose for fuel to see if the FPR is leaking, and make sure it's connected directly to an intake vacuum source. Sticking injectors is a possibilty. A maladjusted AFM is a possibilty. Generally, the AFM spring should not be messed with. But sometimes it's too tempting. See if the glue blob on the adjustment wheel is intact. I had also found that my aftermarket AFM was set to run rich. I had to use an old original AFM to pass emissions inspection in Oregon.

At $660 with like 6 days to go, I think they will go higher than $750. Possibly double that...

Try Amayama in Japan

I'm chucking ideas here, Nissan did make a cap to blank off heater size pipes (1/2" ex dia), 14058-14600 was originally for the Datsun SP311, but it's a correct Nissan part for such a job. Whether you can find one in the US is another matter, I got mine direct from Japan.

So today's question... The grommet in the original shift boot is not symmetric. It has a flat side, and a more rounded side. Which way was it originally installed? I've seen pics of original boots that seem to show the flat side up, For example, here's a pic of an original boot and a reproduction (made number of years ago by a member of the forum): And here's one from Roo's recent thread about his 3-D printed shift knob: But I've also seen pics with the more rounded side exposed (up): So what say ye experts of the originality? What is the correct original orientation of the grommet? Here are the threads those pics came from: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38329-shifter-boot-alternatives-anyone/page/2/#findComment-344979 https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/69522-3d-printed-gearknob/#comment-678725

Thanks guys. I will jettison those two parts.

E31 is “right” for your 71. N42’s were from 75 onward. E88’s were 72-74

Hello everyone, maybe somebody can help me? My 1977 280z is running rich at idle and the idle mixture on the AFM doesn't seem to help. I spend the last few days cleaning the electrical connections and timing the ignition again as it was out of spec. The car runs way better but the AFR gauge I temporarily installed still shows 11,5 at idle. I'd like to bring that down (or up depending how you look at it) to 14,7 as the car stinks of gasoline. The previous owner mentioned that the car running rich was the reason it didn't pass inspection (auction company didn't mention it had no valid inspection on it, APK over here in the Netherlands). After cleaning all the connections and checking the timing I tried messing with the idle air mixture screw but that didn't help. When turning clockwise a bunch the car did start to run richer at some point but when turning anti clockwise it didn't get past 11,5 AFR. Can anybody help me diagnose the problem? I would really like to drive the car on the road before the winter stop (oldtimer insurance). Also still waiting on some parts from Zservices EU but some are on backorder. In my quest to make the car run as it should I did notice the ignition coil is a 1,5 ohm unit with a total resistance of 2 ohm with the external resistor. I believe it needs to be closer to 1 ohm total so I'll probably replace the coil with a 0,5 Ohm one. Can somebody confirm this?

Hi all, When removing SUs how do you convert the 3 way heater pipe to 2 way? A 5/8 to 3/4 4" pipe with a 45 would be a dream come true so the heater core hose isnt bent for a straight pipe reducer but I've searched for days with no luck. Im not sure there is enough material in that pipe to tap a plug and I dont really want to use a cap. Any ideas I would appreciate it! Cheers

Not quite a unicorn... but pretty close. Current bid is $205. I predict it'll take over $750 to buy these.

Authentic OEM Nissan Fairlady Z/Euro 70-78 Datsun 240z S30 Headlight Covers $0.99 starting bid You can submit an offer through my ebay listing. Ebay Listing Here https://ebay.us/m/d2oWbC

1970-73 Datsun 240z Round Top SU Carburetor Kit 4 Screw + NOS Nissan Screws $0.99 starting bid No reserve https://ebay.us/m/cMVFUh Ebay Listing Here