Mark Maras

I removed the degraded foam before using the 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. That was at least three years ago. The car has sat out in the weather year-round and still no sagging.

I replaced a headliner in a Toyota a few years ago and passed on the Weldwood Contact Adhesive because of the price and quantity. I used 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. It comes in a spray can and was easier (more forgiving) to use than contact adhesive. The 3M has held up well, and I'd definitely use it again.

I've read that the mixture screws raise or lower the nozzles 1mm per revolution. One can raise the nozzles to the top and lower them 10 turns. At ten turns, the fuel level should be near the top of the nozzles.

We'll call this " The Battle of the Bulge". What caused it?

The nozzles are normally set 2 1/2 turns down from the top. Have you checked to see what yours are set at? They may not be the same.

The interior is where I check to see if the speedo has turned over. Seat, carpet, and especially pedal cover wear are good indicators.

Have you trained him to do anything else?

I'd start with a new battery and retest. I suspect the alternator or voltage regulator is bad, too. It may be as simple as overworking the alt. while trying to charge a battery that won't take a charge.

A good battery will be about 12.6-12.8 volts; 12.2 is very low and indicates it might not hold a charge. A good alternator will read 14-14.5 volts.

I'm not saying you're wrong about the vibration source, but many years ago, a friend had a '56 Ford pickup that someone had slopped a 302 ci engine into. The engine was visibly out of alignment both vertically and horizontally, and it ate u-joints every six months, but it never vibrated at speed.

Your vibration description is identical to one I had in my early 71, except mine came on at 80 mph +. I described it as having a 500 lb. bumble bee in the car. The vibration was too fast to be half-shaft u-joints. I tried new u-joints, but they didn't improve the vibration. After carefully cleaning the shaft and upon closer inspection, I found a bit of scuffed paint and the slightest hint of a dent. The dent was only visible in bright sunlight and at the right angle. Off to the local drive-shaft company it went. They retubed it and installed new Spicer u-joints. The only brand of u-joint they would guarantee to not screw up the balance at the time, I reinstalled tyhe shaft and never had any more trouble with it for the next twenty years..

I wouldn't want to be on the lean side of 14.7 at any time.

I believe there are two different snake oils for injection. One is a solvent that breaks down corrosion. The other is a lubricant that frequently uses mineral oil to lube the injectors. The one you've shown is a lubricant. Some products may contain solvent and oil but the little I've studied them, it appears it is either one or the other.

IF, (big if) the problem is electrical and is isolated to #4, it has to be located somewhere in the dist. cap, rotor, plug wire, sparkplug, and or any of their electrical connections. I'd pull the dist. cap (wires intact), and pull the plug wires. Using an ohm meter. check the resistance in the circuit between the contacts in the cap with the corresponding spark plug wire at the boot end. They should all be similar. Let's hope you find high resistance in the #4 circuit.