240znz

Enrique wrote soom good stuff there. My wipers were painfully slow. The wiper pivot rubber seals were perished to the point of they were letting in water...guess what was happening in there!!!! I pulled the motor and arms. Dismantled the arms including the pivots and cleaned them in bath of kerosene. Used fine wet & dry sandpaper to remove the corrosion, painted them and put it all back together with lots of water-proof grease. Didn't touch the motor (even though I am a electrician) and they now work a treat....speed is not a problem. So, the first ting I would do is to look at the pivots. They are now some 30 years old and probably need a little help. Good luck....and be very carefull when dismantling the pivots, those circlips are very soft, but they are easily reformed using a pair of pliers....just take your time.

Just moved into my new home 4 weeks ago. I wired it with the help of my electrician brother. One double socket on each wall, separate work bench area has 2 doubles and of course the door opener has a single in the roof. The good thing is that I put in plenty of slack when I wired it and took digital photos of each bare wall before the plaster board went up. So if I need more points in later then I'll have no problems. Have 4 double flouros in there that give ample light. Garage is 6.5m x 6.5m. Not huge but enough for now.

I was checking that one out last night also. That hole in the back hatch is not a good sign. That is where the datsun 240z lettering should be......never heard of that rusting out so maybe its been left out in the rain most of its life or even a rear ender and the fact the there are so many different panels on it....nah....leave it there. I have a feeling that this car has swiss-cheese syndrome. Maybe a parts car for $500NZ. Cost to ship to Southland would be about 250. Better ones about.....wait...look.....wait....looking....waiting.

Welcome. If you are looking to punch plenty of power out via a V8 then you might be better off starting with a body shell that has more metal in it. The very first 240's were the lighest and then they got progressively heavier due to US laws. So the 280z will have more metal in it and it also has the larger diff that you might need to handle that big HP.

That's not a front grill....its a heat shield for when it re-enters the atmosphere after a deep space mission. That is out there man...what was he smokin....gezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz :cry::sick:

So it's true...old dogs always remember where they bury their bones....hmmmmmm.

To Billramsey2002 In reply to your question on why your Zed has the circular "Z" badge on the B pillar. Series 1 240'z have the 240Z badge and series 2 have the Z badge. The change over came in early 71. Series 1 cars also have the rear hatch vents and other detail changes mainly inside, but they are lighter. There seems to be a lot of variation between the "inbetween" cars so you might have a mix of both. It wouldn't be the first time.

My 71' HS30 00352 has a white "B"pillar badge also. It too is from Aussie.

Lightning will jump any gap given half a chance. A 4-6 inch piece of rubber will offer little resistance (no pun intended) But as you are in a farraday cage......you should not get struck. Current will flow on the outside of the car and not you. DON'T GO OUT AND TRY IT THOUGH:devious: :dead:

19. What was the best thing BEFORE sliced bread? 20. Where are all the baby pigeons?

I'm not trying to be smart but.......are the Mikuni's that you are looking at twin chokes or single chokes (kinda like a SU) The reason I ask is that many Japanese motorbikes were/are fitted with Mikuni SU type carbs (one for each cylinder). I doubt if they have made one big enough for 3 cylinders on a L24 but they just might have. I have had a few motorbikes and have always wondered if you could fit 6 flat side mikunis onto a L24/26/28. Yes you would have to make a custom manifold and they'd be a PITA to setup/tune....but they would look wicked. In answer to your last question can you get new ones. Not too sure but you'd be better off trying to get a third that is the same model as the other two, as different model carbs are hard to work with......good luck

Thanks Steven, Those links made good reading. My 71 has a front dam fitted and factory rear spoiler. I was thinking of removing the rear spoiler but on reading those pages, I might as well keep it on there. I have seen another Zed with the same front dam as is on mine. Mine was imported to NZ from Australia and I'm wondering if these dams were fitted in Japan or in Australia. Here's a early pic

Old! old???? maybe a few gray hairs but they weren't there before I decided to build a house. I now have a full range of hair dye products in the bathroom ready for another dose once I get the final bill...gezzzz. I spose then I'll have time to sort the Zed....or will the wife insist on a driveway as well...I'll soon be going to get a hair re-grow potion. She way even want a garden.....aaaaarrrrrgggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Nice fish Lachlan...by the look on your face the hook must be somewhere paniful!!!! Do I have "pick on someone" rights now?????

Finally got around to it......finally....who's left now?????

The front bumper on my 71 has steel bushes between the bosy and bumper side mounts. Not too sure of they should be there. I'll be putting some rubber in there for sure...it all helps.

My opinion of the 350 is changing the more I see them driving about. The convertable would be my choice as the lines look better to me. However, I must say that the front and rear still look like smashed in coke cans. As for Evo's and STi's. It sometimes appears that there are as many STI's and EVO's in New Zealand as there are Toyota Corollas. Japanese imported cars are very cheap with boy racers buying them for little money. We have tons of GTR's here as well so anything that stands out of the crowd like the 350Z is a welcomed changed. You can get 2 stoked R32 GTR's here for the price of 1 new 350z. I even saw a De Tamaso Pantera yesterday...now there is a car!!!!!

You need to move the lock plate out a little bit so that the door catch seats correctly. Shouldn't take too much effort. Your door should close with little force. Do you have a manual? If not then maybe a good idea to goto your library and get one out for a while.

Mine doesn't have front or rear repeaters but it does have a plastic blank plate over the side light switch locattion in the centre console. Mine also doesn't have the rear demister.

Looks as though this Zed is one of the late Series 1 cars that had bits from a series 2. I'm not too sure about the subtle changes but I know that the series 1 speedo starts at 20mph not 10mph as this one does. Maybe he changes the early speedo for a later model??? Maybe "all seeing/reading guru" Alan T can help shed soem much needed light on the subject???? What say you oh great one???

It's all about choice. You control what you want to look at, just like watching the TV or reading a magazine. If you don't like what you see, hear or read then stop looking, listening or reading. Do something else. Easy. Don't like what's on TV then turn it off or just change the channel. Life is very easy really. Great pics guys.....my sense of humour to a T

Just to add on from Royce.... Once you get the driveshaft out, but quick and shove a clean rag up the hole or you will get gearbox oil everywhere. But as you are a wise Zed owner, you would have probably drained the oil as you were going to replace it with new oil once you've finshed......right???? If it is being a pain......take it off at the diff end and whack it with a rubber hammer...that might break the seal a bit and help it come out. My 2cents

That wing is for looks ONLY. Wouldn't have one on my Zed but I have a factory fitted rear spoiler/lip/thingydosiwhatits on my 71 240. I'm not too sure why they put it there but my guess it was also for looks. Maybe someone here can shed more light on the reasons why? As previously stated above, rear wings are only any good if you are pulling serious speeds and they MUST be in the airflow. Zed's are well known to have very bad drag characteristics especially at the rear. The best thing you can do is to remove as much air from getting under the car before you get a rear wing. Little point trying to get the rear to sit down at speed while the front lifts up...you'd get double the amount of front lightness. Anyway......my personal preference is not to have big wings.

I went one stage further and dismantled every joint and put the lot in a parts washers. Blew everything out with compressed air and resprayed the assembly with zinc and enamel. Repacked the lot with grease and put it all back together......just smooth smooth smooth now.....so it shoudl be after I spent the best part of 4 hours doing it. Those little circlips can be PITA to get off but they do come off. Once they come apart they stay out of shape, don't worry, they will go back on just find with the help of mister big pliers to re-shape/re-crimp them. My boots are also perrished beyond use, so I need to find an alternative. You can still but new ones. However....I should have paid more attention to the way the spring which is in the motor attachment arm works. Now I have put it all back together it seems that the spring has no use. Does anyone have any ideas of how it is designed to work?

No photos yet guys....I'll have to round up a few sheep to let you see the full picture...then again.....hmmmm... maybe that is not such a good idea......tupping time has gone......hmmmmm Aren't all Texans mad Ken???? Stay tuned.......digital camera warfare about to enter 8th phase.......:stupid: