240znz

Panic over then....... I have a transition car between the S1 and S2. It has some starnge things in it that I am finding that my Haynes manual doesn't cover. There is certainly more to these cars than meets the eye. Cheers:classic: :classic: :classic:

Reading the old post it details that there should be a expansion tank behind the RHS rear side panel. I don't have one in my 71. Did some 70/71 240's come without expansion tanks or maybe the PO removed it. Help :mad:

Having a little fuss deciding if the change out to the later model master brake cylinder (MBC) would be a good idea in my series 1 240. Have a S1 240z with a "passed its best" MBC. The PO gave me a new later model MBC and I'm thinking of installing it. Apart from the swapping of lines, what else could be an issue. Bambikiller240 posted this reply. Can you assist us to expand the knowledge base.

Will the length of the servo pushrods have any effect though? Was there any changes to the front or rear brakes from S1 240's to S2 240's that would prehibit the use of S2 master cylinders???

Has anyone purchased from the company before? If so then could you give us an idea of what they are like to do business with? What is the product like? What is the quality like? Are the panels a like fit? After sales service? Do they have any nasty gremlins lurking there? Would you buy again? Cheers

Cheers Carl, I could have cocked that right up if I hadn't known they swapped them around. The car will be totally stripped then put back together. I'll see how the budget is before installing new lines. Problem is that the more you look into these cars, the more the re-build budget creeps up..........arrrggghhhhhhh.

Cheers Abas, I thought they would be but I had to make sure. I have a master brake cylinder for a 72-73 240 that the PO hadn't fitted. He got it in the US. It looks different to the 70-71 and my VB catalog confirms that they are different. The VB catalog also tells me that the 72 costs 69.95 and the 70-71 costs 189.95. Yikes. Will I have issues if I fit the later cylinder to my 71 ZED? eg brake pressue problems? The only cosmetic difference is that the fluid reservoir is larger.

Looking to order in some replacement heater hoses. The VB catalog is for LHD cars, are the hoses identical for RHD 240's? I'm guessing they are, but just want to be sure before I take the plunge. Thx

Welcome. Great to learn that another low VIN is being saved. I have #352 and the colour is baffling me somewhat. I call it a plum colour but mine has a metallic fleck in it also. You should be able to confirm the colour my looking at the paint code sticker on the radiator. Post a pic of it and also some of the car when you can. My radiator has been recored and the sticker has been painted over....damn that PO. Cheers, James

Cheers

Sorry to interrupt guys bit could one of you let me have allzparts email address. I've been to there site to check out pricing but can't find a email address....can you help? Cheers James

Anyone got an idea?

Forgot to add that the wifes nail metal emery board is a great fit for the sockets.

We use needle files to scratch up the metal of the socket. You'll need to find a real skinny one though to fit the slot. Don't go too mad though. Use some wet and dry to scuff up the spades. Before you put it all together use some CRC contact cleaner to clean the surfaces from all grease/swarf etc. Doesn't WD40 leave a oily residue?

Not too sure about the math on that one. Looking at the 70-72 XU1, the output was 119kw. Using 1kw = 1.34HP we end up with 159HP. So 159HP lugging around a aerodymanic brick weighing in at 1100KG.......might have been a bit of fun in a straight line but it would be interesting to see one against a Zed around a track. Anyone raced a Toe-runner???????

It has solid white and white/black stripe on one branch and the other is blue/red stripe and blue/white stripe. Can anyone confirm what a series 1 RHD Zed should have. Alan??? Oh wise Zed guru and general nice helpful guy (grovel grovel grovel) The rear quarter panel has holes in it for the speaker. A speaker was installed but was connected to cabling separate to the wiring loom (crappy 0.5mm2 twin...nothing good about that). I'll be running new twins at some stage during the resto....:tapemouth Thanks and remember............ Zed NOT ZeeROF

Someone wrote Torana. To you folk who are not familiar with Holden (GM) Toranas, they are a Australian car. I'm guessing that they are from the same era. The best was a XU1. Straight 6, triple 40's or 45's (not too sure) Was it a 186 or 202ci ? This car was grunty. How grunty???? Did it win Bathurst??? Did the 240Z race at Bathurst. I know the Datsun 1200 coupe won Bathurst (in its class). Come on you Aussie petrol head panel van whooses, someone is dying to inform us for the XU1's prowess. Was it up for the task?

Have removed the rear LHS quarter panel to remove the dead PO installed power aerial. Looked down inside the panel to see two filler worms poking into the inside. The position looks like where the side marker would have been. As this car is an Aussie Series 1, I thought that they didn't have side markers? The RHS side has no provision for them but the LHS has two spare conductors hanging out of the wiring loom What the????? I guess that the LHS rear end could have been replaced with a later model panel due to crash damage, but that doesn't explain the conductors??? Any clues. This car has a build date of 12/70.

Full marks for the "no bullsh!t" sales talk. This car will require serious trips to the bank manager. Yes it would make a parts car IF everything were in there. Other wise it could be a waste of time and money. Everything must go eventually and this one sounds stuffed.

Cheers guys, I'll post some pics soon of what I'm finding.

Hi all, Now in full swing in stripping the zed. Finding little spots of surface rust that I will need to pay attention to. I'm killing the rust as I go but I need to paint it with something. Being a complete novice at any painting, what type of primer do I use?

Dave, Have you tried the usual places like trademe and T&E? Where are you in NZ? Not to many ZX's wrecking down in CHCH.

CONCERNED!!!!!! ..... that this car will cost me heaps. ..... that this car has me under a spell. ..... that I have have so many jobs to do to get it back to its glory ..... that I'm having a hard time finding the time to work on it. ..... that my wife suggested that I spend some money on it. (alterior motive there somewhere...maybe she wants more kids...eeekkkkk:finger: )

Datsun also made a L20 FI model. I've seen a few in NZ, so you might also find a few in Aussie. They look just like a 240Z. Not too sure how they came about but I'm guessing that they were a Japanese domestic market model only.

Gidday Justin, Good choice about thinking about getting a Zed. Even better choice asking about them before you start looking to get one. My advice is to use the search function on this website to find what you are looking for. Spend A LOT of time doing your research before you buy.....these cars are old and as you will find out suffer from the ugly rust monster if not looked after. There are many Aussie members here so you shouldn't be without help for to long. A very basic and brief speal below. First there was the series 1 240Z. It is the lightest and was the quickest until the turbo 280ZX was introduced. The lightness was due to the small gauge of the sheetmetal and as a result, these early cars tend to rust out in places like the frame rails, floor pans, rear deck, doglegs and sills. I have a S1 and it is amazing where rust can sleep. Most Zed's rust in the same places. The series 2 240Z has introduced and had very minor changes really. It gained about 220lbs in weight. The 240Z never came out as a 2+2. New laws in the US dealt the 240Z a early death in 74 with the requirement for more crash protection. The 260Z got heavier again and that is why the engine gained more displacement. They introduced a 260Z 2+2. The 280Z was introduced and got heavier again hence more HP needed and hence the L28 engine. Amazingly enough all 3 models look very similar in profile with only bumpers changing the shape. The best advice I can give you is to buy a car that has the least amount of rust in it. Rust is very expensive to remove and starting with a good base will make your experiance more fun. But find one and go for a drive.......then you will be hooked for good. Good luck and remember..............