240znz

CZCar, Sounds as though the line you have on those 2 HS30's might be the same as I had a nibble at. Might be wrong but here goes. I placed a wanted ad on T&E website. The guy said that one is RED. Has number plate of REDZED. It failed a warrant sometime this year due to rust. The engine in it came from the rolling shell he also has for sale. Rolling chassis has all the body parts/nuts/bolts/everything labelled up in bags and also on excel format files. He told me he was offered $10K when the red zed had a warrant. He said to me that he was going to email me some pics (as I am in CHCH), but never did. Strange that this guy replied to my ad but didn't follow it up...I wonder why. So.....for a mint "RUSTLESS" shell with full inventory and a rusty parts car with original engine and box from the shell car......he only wants $100's....then jump at it from a 10 story building...that is the bargin of the century. Me...I wanted a car that I could drive while restoring. I find that I lose the faith if the car is off the road for too long. No I have a running Zed that keeps my fever down. Go for it, or at least if you don't want it then I'll grab it for parts. Let me know.

Spark plug looks great. No water in the engine oil. I'll do a compression test tomorrow. Weird. Maybe as you suggest Keith. Don't really want to rip the head off but it might just have to be. Should I retorque when hot or cold?

I always check out the Zed before taking it for a spin. Noticed last weekend that the block has rusty water stain on the left hand side (LHS). Traced it to the back of the head, right behind no6 cylinder. Then noticed that the stain is on the RHS of the block as well but not as much. Check rad for water and......heart lept out and stopped for the 5 seconds......CRAP....it was dry. I put 1.5 litres in it to get it up to level. Started it up and a very small trickle emerged on the LHS. Let it warm up and checked again....nothing....dry...no leak.....hmmmmmm. Took it for a mild drive, stopping and checking LHS every so often. Dry each time and also RHS. It could still have a leak and the heat of the block will be evaporating instantly. Checked levels today and all OK. Did exactly what I did last week in checking after start-up and when warm but no leak. Rad level still OK. Cleaned all the rusty trails off and took for another drive. Zip...no new trails....what the? Rad level OK after the run too. I was thinking of re-torqing the head as the PO has rebuilt this engine some 1500 miles ago. Head as been shaved and it was a lumpy cam in there also. Any ideas? I have a new head gasket and I'm thinking of pulling the head to make sure that it isn't serious....last thing I need is a warped head. Your input/ideas/help is appreciated.

Gidday Ivan, The cars where in Danniverke (sp?). The 280 woth L28 was black and the 280 with L20...don't know. From memory it was a parts car. He wanted $1500 for the L28 and the L20 was free. My thoughts also where that it was a ZX not a Z. Any news on the Aussie move? Hows that beast? James

I have battles with my PC and digital camera at the moment...I'll post some pics as soon as I can. Where in Hants are you? I used to live in Crookham Village near Fleet. Aren't Portmouth doing well!

Once you get your 240, swap the L28 into your 240 less the injection and there you have an extra 30BHP just like that. Keep the ignition and maybe rejet the SU's. Nice drive then.

280ZX Fever, The P30 that the guys are stating refers to the type of block that the L series engine has. Check out a good Zed website for the differences at http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html

Thanks Abas...I'll add this to the ever growing list of "Oh my God...give myself plenty of time to sort that out" jobs that are ever mounting up. When I got my Zed the rhs rear hatch grill was in the glove box with no possible way of mounting it (broken). My guess is that it must have some sort of pin to attach it to the hatch. The 2 screws that unscrew from the hatch have a hole in the middle of them. My guess it that the grill has 2 plastic pins that fit into these screw holes and that's it. I'll RTV the grill back infor now and wait until I have reason to fix it for good....probably when it gets new paint.

If you are looking to go and build an all out race engine then you will need 45's in there as you will be pulling high rpm. So after all your cam, head, ignition and exhaust mods you will need to go to 45's. No they won't go out of tune every week but you may notice a change in atmospheric conditions can effect your tuning. Hot day vs cold day, altitude does make some differences also on jetting sizes. Classic case for atmospheric changes happened to me when I was racing a 125cc Kart in New Zealand. I bought the Kart in one city and then moved to another. When I first used it in the new city, it would flood on tight hairpins. Turned out that the main jet was too big by a knats gonad and that was all due to the fact the air was less dence (humid). Popped in the next size down and what a difference. The jet size change was minimal. Yes a small change but it didn't half kill any slim chance I had of be competitive. For what you will be spending on buying and setting up triples properly, you might well be better to invest in a upgrade ECU for your existing injection. You will get better daily driver use. Maybe even get a ZX turbo engine in there and really notice the difference. Triples aren't cheap. Good luck :classic:

45's will be a little big for a standard L28. You would be better of putting a set of 40's on there. You will notice a difference in gas mileage and noise (lovely "gorp" induction tones) if you do choose to go with triples. However, if you have a wild L28 then absolutely put them on. I still think you are better keeping the EFI as starting triples in the middle of winter can be a PITA. Once you have set the 45's up then they shouldn't go out of tune too much. To get them setup properly you should really put the car on a dyno to find out the best jetting combo. Maybe someone here has already used 45's on a L28 and can give you a head start. Good luck

I've tried to get mine off but stopped as it got a wee bit hard. One grill is broken off my Zed (still have it), so I don't know how to take off the other grill.....any ideas? I too have taken off the inner cover (those plastic rivets are a PITA aren't they) and looked at taking the pockets out. Mine are held in but a still soft black sealant. I'm guessing that that is all they are held in by...just lined up. If anyone knows if this is wrong then please post it as I don't want to break an already UV brittle pocket. Is there any new ones available???

My advise to you when buying a ZED is to see it for yourself in the flesh before parting with any money. Zed's rust and although this car is from Southern California you still won't be sure it's totally rust free unless you use YOUR eyes. Replacing parts in these cars can add up very quickly and with it does the price. Good luck and if you can talk to the seller before bidding then all the better.

I suspect my wiper motor is shot. In the process of removing the wiper arm and motor, I found that the rubber boots that protect the wiper arm pivots are perished to the point of no return. Does anyone know if they are still available? Or what else shoudl I use to weather proof the pivots? The location of the boots is hard to explain. They are under where the wiper arms attach to (what ever that little axle is called). They stick up out of the airvent grill. Cheers

Akir-ra. I've been searching for some info on wiper motor problems and came across your post. Since it has been so long since you posted, I guess that you've sorted out the problem. My wipers are very slow to move, I'm convinced it's the wiper motor in a sad state. I have removed the motor tonight and will pull it to bits tomorrow and have a gander. My bet is that it is probably stuffed full of 30 years of gunge/crud and crap. Looking at the wiper arm pivots all I could see was dust clinging to what is left of some grease. What did you find? Cheers

Welcome..... Sounds like you were lucky to get it home. A story to tell for a long time " The day I got my Zed" Well done and I'm sure you'll have more great yarns to spin.:classic:

You'll need to fabricate a cluch pedal mount, put in a clutch master cylinder and mount, not sure if you'll need a new speedo cable but probably. Might be easier finding a firewall from a wrecked manual body. There a posts on this site regarding this so do a seach and see. Good luck

You have me worried now. If they were retro fitted then the entire rear deck would have to been fitted. Someone help me sleep tonight!

Last pic of open hatch without vinyl liner. So those who have anything but a series 1 might have one over us "Optioned " owners. I wouldn't put any tools in these hatches as just imagine the noise when the tyre brace hits the jack every time you corner hard....no thanks.

This pic shows the crappy vinyl liner