Rob

My Z has an FJ20 and it handles much better. As all the weight that was lost (about 50kgs) was taken from in front of the crossmember that's not surprising.

I'm not a carb guy but have you checked that the needle and seat is not leaking in the back carb? If it's leaking you will get some bizzare results not dissimmilar to what you have described. I think you can check it by removing the float bowl top, holding the float up and running the fule pump to see if any lkeaks

There is no way I would ever want one but that is pretty cool. Glad they did it to a ZX and not a Z though.

Hey Z Kid I'm after the following stuff: * Good straight bonnet * Tacho (don't care if it doesn't work but the clear plastic lens has to be good) * The light in the centre of the dash * interior light * hazard light switch I was horrified to read of you tipping a Z on its side but then I realised it was a 2 + 2 so that's OK I'm in Canberra but if the price and condition is right I'm happy to pay freight.

I changed the default number of posts per page in my "user cp" to 10 but it doesn't seem to make any difference. I am sure that Mike is probably asleep this week after the amout of work it must have taken to overhaul this site but maybe when he wakes up he could change this? Mike?

This from the University of Sydney web site: Sydney Funnel Web Spider: This is one mother of a spider! It is a large (6-7 cm), black, aggressive, ugly looking spider with massive fangs. These are large and powerful enough to easily penetrate a fingernail. When disturbed it tends to rear up on its hind legs, a defensive posture that exposes the fangs. They don't jump. During a bite the spider firmly grips its victim and bites repeatedly; in most cases the experience is horrific. The venom is highly toxic. Before an effective antivenom was developed, significant bites usually resulted in severe symptoms and death was not uncommon.

Pretty aren't they?

A few months ago I had a huntsman crawl across the bonnet of my Z at a set of traffic lights. I figured he would blow off when I took off. I accelerated up to 100kph (60mph) and the little bugger just hung on! I thought I could jar him loose by popping the bonnet onto the the safety catch but even that didn't phase him! I eventually got him when I got home (he walked over the roof when I stopped and was trying to get in through the hatch seal).

http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/wtc.survivor.hoax.html laffeaux: There's more reasons than that not to use MS OS!!

Isn't the early 200sx motor an FJ20?

Hey 2Many: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/7836/

The fj20 is smaller, lighter, more efficient, more powerful and prettier than an L26.

Here's how I mounted mine: http://www.260z.netfirms.com/interior.htm Don't look too hard at the rest of the site. I did it in a two days to pass a tech assignment.:cheeky:

Do the other three nuts up tight (not gorilla tight, just tight) while you are doing the trick with the socket/cold chisel. It helps a little bit by taking the load off the one with the lock nut. A twelve point socket works best. If you get really desperate you could probably MIG weld a 'handle' onto the offending nuts and undo them. Fair chance of collateral damage to the wheel though. If it's just the front you can remove the hub and caliper as an assembly with the wheel attached, then remove the brake disc from the hub and grind the end of the wheel stud off, then drive it through the hub and the wheel. Good luck.

RE wheel cylinders: Depends of the bore has rusted or not. pull them apart and check. Any pitting on the machined surface inside the bore means chuck em and buy new ones, but if the bores are OK then just buy seals.

Yeah but at least you can drive/bus/take a plane/whatever to buy a West Coast cream puff (mmm sounds like a dessert), and drive it/trailer it home. An Aussie would have to fly over to see the car, get it shipped back to Oz, fix the shipping damage, replace the bits knocked off by the wharfies, convert it to right hand drive, convince the Australian Authorities that it's safe for Australian roads and change the tail lights. My Father has gone through the above exercise for two Camaros and it's a real pain! Americans are still Z-spoilt! (West Coast more than the East Coast by the sounds of it)

The one's on mine are off a Ford Escort. Nice and compact, cheap and good quality (one of the only quality bits you will find on an Escort ). I reckon they suit the car, too. Did America get the Escort? If not the same mirrors were fitted to a bunch of different Fords over here, so maybe they were fitted to something over there as well Can post pics if you want.

It seems like every second house in America has an old 240Z in its garage! First derk, then ZmeFly, and now steve-o all find nice original Zs that seem to have been forgotten about for years, all in the last fortnight! I'm jealous! Can anybody in Australia report a find like this?

How could they possibly compete with Australia when our currency is the South Sea Peso?

From my understanding of what you described you may very well be mad, good sir. But if it was stuffed anyway then why not? I'd love to see some pics!

Yep, think it's a great idea. And if anybody in Australia wants to do the swap I'll happily trade my 260Z tailights for some 240Z ones (I reckon the 240Z ones look better)

I thought I saw a 240 in the shorts for Vanilla Sky.

Sounds like you are running the ballast resistor without the bypass circuit. Ballast resistors are meant to be bypassed during cranking so the coil gets a temporary hit of 12v instead of the 7 volts that it normally runs on. This is to counteract the voltage drop that affects all cars during cranking. Say if the voltage drops to 10v during cranking then the coil wired through a ballast resitstor will be trying to run on about 5v, so it won't generate much in the way of a spark. Best thing to do is find out what setup the '81 car had and mimick that. At an educated guess I'd say that it didn't have a ballast resistor and used a coil designed for EI. Hope this babble helps.