Arne

OK, once the ice thawed enough to allow me to move the car today (damn freezing rain), I took the lower steering column cover off to look at the wiring. Unfortunately, my car (also 10/70) does not appear to have the same color wiring as yours. Specifically, I did not see a black wire on the turn signal side. The red wire from the combo switch is connected to a red wire on the turn signal switch. Since I couldn't reconcile this with your situation, I took a picture of it instead.

Too late, I already have one. You're right, even though I don't expect superb sound quality in my cars, the sound quality of the modulator is not all that great. But worse to me is that the modulator (an early iTrip) is not user friendly - rather difficult to use, actually.

Same as any light. Start at the bulbs and work backwards. Test the bulbs themselves, check to see if you have power getting to the socket, and check the ground for rust and corrosion. If everything looks and tests good at the light itself, start moving farther back up the circuit testing as you go. Side note - the Datsun sidemarkers only work with the parking lights, they did not flash with the turnsignals.

No, a 260Z should have been titled as a '74. 280Z's started in '75. Also, while both the 240Z and the 280Z VINs started with 'HLS30' the 260Z VINs started with 'RLS30' instead. I've also seen charts that claim that all cars with VINs over 200000 were 280Zs. So it sounds to me as if your car started life as a 280Z. Of course, what is in it now is anybody's guess.

Cool, but since the plan for my car is to look mostly stock but with period correct accessories, and since I don't have the factory radio, Turnswitch's service to add modern FM isn't quite right for me. This is what I actually have in mind...

There are people who don't care about driving, mere possession is satisfaction enough. That doesn't describe me, or many others on this board either.

I don't think replacement tanks are available. The hoses are available from the usual suspects. MSA's current catalog has a nice diagram of the whole system on page 103.

My thought is to find (eBay, probably) some old vintage aftermarket stereo for mine. Something like an original Pioneer Supertuner, old Clarion, or something similarly vintage. I'll mount a pair of modern speakers in the stock locations (not ideal for sound, but so what). Then I may hide a small low power external amp that has aux. input capability for my iPod. Edit: Here's one, not a name brand, but certainly the proper vintage look. I can get this brand new in the box for cheap.

In my opinion - no. It's possible, but I don't think it likely that the nozzles and needles are your problem. If the mixture is too rich with the adjuster screws all the way up, there is probably something else wrong. The main causes could be:The float level is too high The nozzles are sticking (i.e. - as if the choke was stuck on) The nozzles are badly worn (needle orofices) The needles are badly worn The needles are wrong The needles are very badly adjusted (mounted way too far up in the piston, not a likely situation) Note that the fresh needles and nozzles only address numbers 3, 4 and 5. Number 1 will cause the same problem with new parts. I agree with Gary that considering your issue, you probably don't want SM needles, or even the early stock N27 needles used in the earliest cars, as those are the richest choices. N54s are probably your best choice for this, assuming you do get new ones. But I still strongly doubt that the needles and nozzles are the problem. In this situation the float level MUST be your first check. If it's too high, nothing else you do will help at all!

Actually, the only Datsun headers they offer from Hooker are for small block Chevy swaps. All the rest of their Datsun/Nissan headers are Pacesetters.http://www.jet-hot.com/pages/Precoats/Nissan.htm

Sounds like a project for someone who's done it.

Your shop manual (if you have one) will tell you. And ZTherapy's refresh kit includes their video, which also has instructions (I believe).

Just be sure you check the float level too. If the level is too high, it's still going to be rich, no matter what new parts you put in it.

Well, you could try dropping the needles in the pistons a touch. That will lean the mixture out some. But the most important and basic adjustment on the SU carbs is the float level. That's what sets the basic mixture, the adjusting screws are just for fine-tuning. I still think that's your basic problem. And I gather you aren't comfortable doing carb adjustments yourself, so if you're going to pay some one to fiddle with things like dropping the needles, better to pay them to set the carbs up properly instead.

Sounds like the float levels are too high. The fuel level in the float bowls needs to be lowered.

Am I the only person who looks at the date that a thread was started before replying? Jeez, people, I'm pretty sure he's made the decision by now.

Since absolute originality is not crucial for my car, I'm thinking of trying one of the following: http://www.gotbelts.com/nonretractable1.html http://www.andoauto.com/antique.htm I like the second choice better, as they offer a satin finish buckle instead of chrome only.

Yup, that should work fine.

Interesting. They do look to be the same, but MSA's is $30 less uncoated, and $80 less coated. (May not be the exact same coating, though. Arizona's is Jet Hot, MSA's is generic.)

Arizona's is a nice-looking piece. And the coating is available from them as well. http://www.arizonazcar.com/header.html

I'd say it might be possible, but there is no way to know for sure until you pull it apart.

At half the asking price he'd have got bids. And may have gotten more than one person to bid and it may have made it up to his price anyway. I can see where it would be desirable to some people. Me? I'll be happy with a reprint, thank you very much.

Before you do anything to the nylon webbing (such as dying it), do some research. There is a real possibility that the dye could reduce the strength of the webbing even more than the effects of 30+ years. Most car and belt manufacturers specifically warn AGAINST dyes and cleaners other than mild soapy water.

Can someone tell me the pros and cons of the 6-2 compared to the 6-1 headers? Which is good for what?

I can do anything mechanical or electrical, but to get results that I will be pleased with, I have to pay others to do my body and paint work. Yeah, I'm figuring $5k for that.