Arne

Don't know how they compare to the '78, it's been a while since I've seen the later ones. But Bryan is right - the early ones have metal buckles that almost look galvanized. Really poor looking. If the later cars have chrome buckles, that's one more part on my car that won't be original.

I wish mine looked that good. It will someday, but it's gonna take time and money. Nice car!

Nope, neither yours nor mine are better than one another, just different. While there are some people that feel that one vintage is better, I'm not one of them. There are some things I like about the really early cars like mine, and some things I don't. If I had found a decent buy in a later 240 when I was hunting for mine, I'd have taken it. There are no bad Z's.

I'm not a veteran, but I too have seen the changes in the site's atmosphere just recently. But I've found it very easy to ignore the garbage and only read the good stuff. Family comes first, Jared, but if you get the time, drop back by now and then.

Not here at work. It's in the printed catalog at home, probably not listed online.

MSA = Motorsport Auto = http://www.zcarparts.com

Yours must be a late '71 then, without the hatch vents. My car also has the original one, which is the same as the one pictured above.

Mine are both empty as well - I don't even have the jack. So I'm interested in this as well. I suspect that the early cars (with the plastic storage compartments) had much the same stuff in them as the later cars, but can't say for sure. I'd bet that the '70 or early '71 owner's manual would list the various tools and such - if I had one.

As for the switch, if it were mine I'd disassemble it myself and clean it that way. But lots of people aren't comfortable doing that. (The switch for the 70 and early 71 cars was not lighted, later ones were.) The plug next to it is listed as available in MSA's catalog. About $3.50 or so, IIRC.

I used to make my living selling custom wheels, I am familiar with all three brands. I will echo what zguitar71 said above. The Konig are good wheels for the price. Not outstanding, but good-looking, decent quality wheels for a daily driver - where they are eventually going to get a few chips or other road blemishes. But if I wanted really nice wheels, I'd go with the Panasports or Minilites.

It's not a replacement for having a good manual, but in a pinch Autozone's online manuals can be useful. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=RG001&UserAction=beginRepairGuide

If you measure from the float cover to the top of the float, it should be 14-15 mm (which is close to .55"). If you measure the actual fuel level in the bowl, it should be 23 mm from the top of the bowl. The fuel level can only be measured with a sight tube and the fuel pump running.

Close only counts in the three H's - Horseshoes, Hand grenades and Hydrogen bombs.

Sounds like u-joints in the left half shaft to me. The fact that it only does it when torque is applied means that's about the only choice.

Some decals are also available from http://www.zeddsaver.com/ I've not bought anything from them, so I can't speak about their quality or service. But unlike others, their paint code decal is available with the paint number pre-printed.

I'm not all that familiar with the ZX injection (even though my 240Z had it in it when I got it) so I don't know whether there are any other inputs that might override the ECU. Failed thermo-time switch? Bad cold start assist system? Since changing the ECU doesn't help, I'd be looking for anything else that can send an 'open' signal to the injectors.

Yeah, the '82 would have come with the E12-93, but I'm certain that's not the problem. I've still got the E12-93 on my car (until I find an affordable E12-80) and as long as you advance the timing to compensate for the lack of input from the injection brain (about 8 degrees, IIRC), it works OK. Not ideal, but OK.

I don't think it's the module, like you said, I think they are all or nothing. Did you remove or bypass the ballast resistor? and are you using a coil designed for electronic ignition, or just the stock 240Z coil?

I agree with Beandip that the needle valve and/or float on that rear carb seems to be causing a problem, sometimes sticking open, others sticking closed. I set my float levels much lower than you did, about 9/16". (The spec I used said 14-15 mm.) I then verified that the actual fuel level in the bowl with the fuel pump running was at 23 mm below the seam between the float bowl and the float cover (as shown in the attached image). I screwed the mixture adjusters all the way into the carb (full lean), and then backed both adjusters out 2.5 full turns. All of my adjustments were based on that as a baseline setting.

First gathering is for pizza this coming Friday (12-9), in Springfield. 6:00 to 6:30 or so. The address is on the website, and I can help with directions if you're not familiar with Springfield.

I'm certainly not happy with mine, but I already voted.

Clear lower lenses are OK, as using amber bulbs is DOT approved. But rear reflectors are technically required by DOT and most states. Clear lenses with red bulbs are also non-compliant as DOT does not currently approve any red-colored bulbs.That said, someone who doesn't know much about early Z's would have to be pretty observant to even notice that the reflectors were missing. Less so to see clear upper halves, but even then since so many ricer Hondas have been using clear lenses with red bulbs I doubt it would be an issue.

Looks like eBay pulled the auction.

Plastic. And not very good plastic, after 35 years. One of my chrome trims is broken, the other is intact but the chrome is peeling badly. If someone tooled up to reproduce those, I'm betting the market would be HUGE.