2ManyZs

You can probably find them at Summit Racing or Jegs for less...

I'm wondering if it might be a 5:88 r&p from one of the truck diffs? I guess it's possible to mix and match some of the ring and pinions if you have access to the proper tools to do the machine work. The only 5:88 I see in the Nissan Motorsports listings are for the H190 and the H233B diffs. I wouldn't have bought it without seeing the ring gear stamping....If it wasn't a 5:88 I'm going to be kicking myself for not bidding on it....

The 2 inch or so long metal cylinder that is on the back of the manifold that the rubber hose connects to from the hard line around the back of the head is the water control valve. It's actually a small thermostat that is supposed to cut off the water supply when the water temp reaches around 80 degrees. If you can block off the water supply at the Y junction on the passengers side of the engine, you can find out for sure if that is the problem. You can still get the water control valves last time I knew. Motorsport has them listed in their catalog, and Chloe at MidwestZ can probably source you one as well. Or, you can just block off the water supply which will make it a bit colder blooded on those cool mornings, but you will never have to worry about it vapor locking.

Are you running the stock 73 intake manifold with the water line still connected? It could be the water control valve at the rear of the manifold that is causing the problem, overheating the manifold.

This sounds like at least half the people in Congress.....or on Wall Street... or a million other people in the US, it's almost scary... "Its mascots are Bondi lifesavers who pull their Speedos up their cracks to keep the left and right sides of their brains separate."

Err, back up a minute.... you say you've got an early master cylinder on a 72? That's could be problem right there unless the lines were swapped around when the early master was fitted. The 72 should have the later style master, unless it's one of the "transition" cars we've found to have early and late parts mixed. You've got me confused when you say the rebuilt master wouldn't work... which style master was the rebuilt one?

And if it's brand new, never used, why did he have to spend 400 bucks to make it looks so good????:stupid: Be willing to bet he's got the image flipped..... and it's a recovered dash.:cross-eye

There was an R-190 on Ebay a few weeks ago with 5:88 gears and LSD..... he didn't get any bids with a Buy It Now of 750, so he ran it again and I think it sold for about 450... Not a bad price for the R-190.... but with those gears, it would only be good for auto-X's....

Take a look through this site... you'll get a good idea of what you need to look for. http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/offset.htm

I think 40mm offset, whether positive or negative is gonna be a bit much. If it's positive offset, I have a feeling you are going to have to run a wheel spacer, and if it's negative, you might run into fender clearance problems. I've got a set of 15x8's that have a similar positive offset, and with a 195/65 tire on them they only clear the spring by about a 1/4 inch. The closer you can get to a zero offset the better off you'll be in terms of clearance and tire choices. Personally I'd go for something with closer to a 10mm offset.

Err, not sure if my memory is serving me correctly, but aren't the stock valves for the L24,42mm intake and 33mm exhaust, and the stock L28 valves are 44mm intake and 35mm exhaust? I was under the impression that they increased the same 2mm difference for both intake and exhaust.

You'll want to do both, no matter how small the increase is in the exhaust. You'll be allowing more air into the camber, and you'll want to make sure it gets out, especially if you are going to do any port matching etc.. which will allow even more flow through the combustion chamber. What goes in, must come out, right?

Yup, gonna have to have the head milled so the larger valve seats will fit. Luckily that's all that is required.

I think the key words to his problem are "worn control arm bushings". With an abnormal amount of control arm deflection occuring with worn out bushings, the amount of stress on the T/C rod would increase ten-fold or more. It's odd, that in the 15+ years of going to the race track, I've yet to see the T/C rod snap. Maybe we were lucky, or perhaps it's because everything in the suspension is in top notch condition. I know for a fact the 75 280 of mine is still running the same control arms, bushings, T/C rods that I put on it in 89 with no failures yet and no bushings have been replaced either. If any were going to fail, I'd say it would be that car considering it weighs 2700+ lbs, with 300 in-lb springs and is getting ten times the abuse a street car would. Perhaps this is just another example of considering the whole package when upgrading and not just the individual pieces.

Going from memory the input of the pump should be the bottom and the output should be the top. So, it should be 6 to 4 and 3 to 2, with the return line 1 to 5.

Alan, I put a category in for your pics... Hope I did it right...:stupid: So many admin options in the gallery I don't like to mess around in there....:cross-eye If you want it titled differently let me know and I can change the title of the category. Shame someday we couldn't get a true "worldwide" Z car show together somewhere.... that would keep the cameras going for a while eh?

I'm wondering what Victor is gonna do with all those Z car thongs he was getting as Christmas gifts now that he's been shot down in flames.....:devious: Hope he's not gonna wear them..... Wow, what a mental picture that was..... P.S. Some day you're gonna look back and wonder why you spent your time with boys Kelly... you know, the ones who don't care who's shoes they throw up on.....:sick:

And here Victor was looking for just the right Christmas gift for you...

The old "3 Bounce Rule" is a good way to check the shocks or inserts... take a good hold of the bumper and get the car bouncing up and down, let it go, and if it bounces 3 or more times after you let go, they are in need of attention. Or, if you see any signs of leaking fluid on the strut tube, which is always a sign of worn out strut inserts. The shocks have little to do with the ride height, unless you are running adjustable gas inserts with the rebound set on it's highest setting with weak, sagging springs. Some of the new gas inserts will "prop" up the car a little, but not a really significant amount. If you have stock springs, and the ride height is an inch or more lower than it should be, it's time to start thinking about replacing springs, and while you have it apart, inserts are always a good idea. Of course, worn out bushings will also have a slight affect on the ride height as well, allowing the control arms to move around in the mounts.

According to the diagrams in the General Information page in my 71 Factory Service Manual, the height was 6.3 inches or 161mm. Measured at the bottom lip of the rocker panel below the front edge of the drivers door. The vertical lip on the bottom of the rocker is usually where the ride height measurements are taken from. How low is too low? When you can't stop things from grinding on the pavement? Racing in the SCCA the lowest you can be is 5 inches to the bottom of the rocker, and it's just about as low as you would want to go. 4 inches and I think you'd risk grinding the front crossmember and other suspension pieces....so call it somewhere between 4 and 5 inches.

Err, how bout I just refer to a tech article on the subject? BTW, I have cleaned out the Tech Articles forum of all the incorrectly posted threads, so anything left is an article that may help answer more than one question. I know, sometimes I forget to look in there too.....:stupid: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1200

It's a brand new part that has sat unsold on a shelf either at a dealer, or in warehouse for a car that is usually no longer produced, hence the "old stock. Could also be for a car that is over a certain age as well, since some model lines are on their 3rd or 4th "generation". Or a part that has been superceded by another part, and the original part was never sold out completely. Nearly the same as the term "OEM" (original equipment manufacturer) but not always......

I was wondering if that was you Ben.... Wish I had the money and the room to store them.:disappoin I've got one for the later 240 and it takes up a lot of room in my cramped attic in the garage.

The main reason the 4 screw are more desirable is that they use 4 screws to mount the dome, which keeps the dome alignment in the proper postion relative to the carb body, which lessens the chance of piston binding. It just makes it less likely the dome can be installed off center enough that the piston could possibly bind in its travel.

Cutting out the whole rear quarter would breach the uni-body structurally, but, if it is re-installed correctly it will be as good as new. In some cases, if it were seam welded in places that the factory used the small spot welds, it would probably end up strenghtening the chassis somewhat. The main thing is, having someone install it correctly. Finding NOS complete factory rear quarters is difficult enough, and finding a pair for an early car is nearly impossible, so these are well worth the money. I know I'd be bidding on them if I had the extra cash.:devious: The supplies are getting to the point that the only rear quarters to be found are the 1/2 quarter repair panels, and they don't replace the hardest part to repair in an accident, which would be the hatch/taillight area.