2ManyZs

IMO I think you might want to either stay with what you have or update to a Zx dist. with the 12-80. It would be cheaper in the long run to just go with a new stock dist. and update to an MSD later on. You would need to get the magnetic trigger adapter to go with the MSD so it will fire the injectors. Nothing really wrong with the stock dist. except that your vacuum advance is supposedly not working. Actually, if the vacuum advance is n't working it should have more effect on the higher RPM's and not under 3K.

Hey Kmack, it's RED!!!!! Now, aren't you glad you did all that sanding? Ok, so it looks better than mine now, are you happy yet?? :tapemouth

Darn good question. I think the front hubs will interchange but not absolutely sure. The only difference I'm aware of in the rear control arm is the sway bar mount. They all use the same bushing, so there is no difference there. I believe the 240's and 280's all had the same rear track dimension so there shouldn't be a problem there. The only difference between the two that I know for sure of is the diameter and length of the strut housing and that has nothing to do with the control arm. I was always under the assumption that the rear control arm was actually one control arm that was just flipped over for the other side. But we all know what the first word in assume is don't we?

Should be a spring that connects to the exhaust heat shield just in front to the rear carb. If you still have the heat shield in place look for the hook on it and that's where to connect your return spring. And a throttle that won't return definately makes it too dangerous to drive.

Just one problem zep, the link won't open. I've seen the 2 vids, wouldn't mind seeing a little more of this car.

It did me too, that's why I had someone that knew what they were doing set mine up. Good luck finding a lower gear than 4:11 for an R-200, they are getting hard to find. There is an alternative, an R-180 out of a 720 4x4 pickup will have a 4.37:1 diff in the front. The years are 6/79 through 12/82. And the 720 longbed 4x4 from 6/79 through 6/80 had an R-180 with a 4.62:1 diff in the front. Of course they may be a little hard to find in a junkyard, but they will be cheaper and lighter than the R-200.

Looks good, if you don't take it let me know where it is in Maryland.

Never know, traffic reports can be helpful at times. :tapemouth

If it isn't warped rotors it may be in the calipers or pads themselves. If it isn't in the brakes (more than likely is) the tension compression rod bushings can also be a major factor. Pull the front pads and look for any signs of odd wear. While you have the pads out have someone very gently apply the brakes (you might want to put a screwdriver or something between the piston and rotor so the piston does not come all the way out) just to be sure you don't have a piston that is sticking. If that looks OK, you might as well pull the rotors and have them turned or replaced. Clean and re-pack the bearings and replace the grease seal and if the problem still is there after all that, it's in the bushings. The lower control arm bushings could also contribute to the problem along with bad T/C bushings. Like Jeremiah said, it could also be in the ball joints, tie rod ends, rack bushings as well. Might as well plan on spending an afternoon checking it all at one time.

That is the one thing I always loved about the old Z's, you can't lock your keys in the car!

Save your money on the Splitfires, I used them and saw absolutely no difference between them and just a set of NGK's. You might want to use a set of the resistor plugs so that you don't have to worry about any radio interference.

Well, Jeff Werth told me after changing the ring and pinion in mine that he would rather do 10 R-180 swaps than to do another R-200. The R-200 uses shims to set the pinion depth and it's a long drawn out process to get it right.

The rod from the inside handle should have an adjustment on it. There is a lock nut on the opposite side from the spring on the inside handle frame, but I can't remember if you can get to it or if you have to unbolt the handle assembly from the door and lay it down inside the door to get to the nut. There is also and adjustment on the vertical rod at the back of the door too, it's a PITA to get in there but it is there. You might try to unclip the handle rod at the back of the door and taking the whole thing out and take some of the slack out that way.

I can answer part of the question. WOT would be wide open throttle. The cold start injector acts as a choke on fuel injected cars. The water and air temp sensors tell the ECU when the engine is cold, and the cold start injector then adds extra fuel just as an electric choke would. I have no experience with the turbo manifolds or engines, but it would seem to me there would be quite a few differences. Prices would probably be determined by whether it's a bare manifold, or if it has the injectors and associated hardware on it. I'd say anywhere from 50 for a bare one up to a couple hundred depending on how much is offered with it.

Hmm, I drive a pick-up and a tractor trailer.

The only thing I did differently when removing the bushings was that I used an air hammer with a chisel bit to remove the outer sleeve. Used a round file to clean up the one or two small nicks from the air hammer and used it to clean out any rust so the new bushings would slide in easier. On the front I also had a problem getting the new bushings to fit into the frame. What I did was to take a piece of 1/2 inch all thread rod with two large flat washers and two nuts and used it as a spreader on the frame. Put the all thread rod thru the mounting holes with the flat washer and nuts on the inside and tighten the nuts against the frame. It didn't take much to spread the frame enough that the control arm slid right in with the thicker urethane bushings, they are just thick enough to make it very difficult to get past the lip on the frame. All in all, good advice XYZ.

Well, here's my 2 cents. Street car only-LSD Street car once in a while autocross-LSD Purpose built autocross/race car-Quaiffe Reason? Quaiffe is a full lockup diff, the LSD will always have a little slip unless you shim the clutch packs. Better to not have a full lock up if you are driving on the street in the rain, the Quaiffe is not like a Detroit locker but it will lock up solid in certain circumstances, the LSD should not. Besides the LSD should be a little cheaper. I just saw on Arizona Z cars site where they were selling R-200 LSD diffs from Japan for 775, that's a couple hundred less than the Quaiffe unit itself.

It will most likely work, but the main question is why? You already have a turbo, so why spend thousands (yep, that's what you'd be looking at) just for a little gain? You'd have to lighten, re-balance, polish the crank, then change pistons to get the compression back down so you don't blow the head off when the boost kicks in. All in all, with the labor involved and the cost, I don't think it would be a worthwhile investment. Better to stick with what you have and maybe invest in an intercooler, and perhaps see how you could turn up the boost a little. Sorry, but IMO it would be a waste of time and money, especially money. Just adding an intercooler (if you don't have one already that is) would boost your performance as much as the stroker crank.

You can get the parts with no problem from MSA, VB and numerous other suppliers. The main thing that is needed now, is to find out exactly what is wrong. Sorry, but it may be one small thing, or it may be a major re-build. Of course there is another alternative. If the engine is not the original or originality is not a concern to you, you could always just get a re-manufactured engine and just swap motors. If you have never done any major mechanical work you might end up spending as much to rebuild yours due to the labor costs as what a reman engine would cost to bolt in. MSA sells reman engines from ATK, so do some local parts stores. Or you can check out their web-site listed in the web-links here on the site.

Sorry Dan, I tried to scan mine but it wouldn't come out legible, might be my scanner. The wiring I told you about all goes to the alternator except for the White and Blackw/white. Hope that helps a little more.

If you are talking about the inner wheel well, MSA used to have a repair panel. I know it's in their old catalog, seems like they were about 50 bucks a piece. If you don't have their catalog, go to the web-links and request one on their web-site.

If MSA doesn't have the right drive gear, you could try Courtesy Nissan, seems like they should have one, or at least be able to get one. Red, 20 tooth for the 4.11 Purple 21 tooth for the 4.38

I must be geezing. I drove by the testing station that sits beside 495 outside Wilmington 5 days a week for 3 months and didn't dawn on me till now. I need a vacation. BTW, instead of a resonator you could use a "race muffler" like I just got from Summit Racing. It's a bullet shaped straight thru so it wouldn't take up much room, and it was only 32 bucks. It's made by Dynomax, but not sure how small a pipe it fits, I think the smallest was 2 or 2 1/4. Resonator isn't much different than a muffler anyway, just a few less baffles.

Tom, can you legally remove the smog equipment in DE on a car that is over 25? If you can legally do it, or if you don't have smog checks, that would be the simplest solution to the problem. Not only that, but your car will probably end up running a lot better. Might want to check into it if you haven't already.

No, it's not illegal to change the speedometer. It will be illegal if you try to match the odometer reading from the old one to the new one. All you have to do is if you sell it, you must record it on the title that the odometer does not state the actual mileage. As long as you state that you will be OK, you might also give the next owner the actual mileage total from the original speedometer so that with that they can determine the total number of miles on the car.