2ManyZs

Funny you mention that car, I haven't gotten any more e-mails form the guy that was caught in the middle of that deal. He asked me what the car might bring, but I guess the guy that owned it wouldn't sell it for what it was really worth.

What I meant was, a car sold in VA must have a title to be sold or re-registered, I've never tried to get one with just a bill of sale so I don't know if they will give me any grief or not. Hope not, but then, it isn't really important anyways since the car won't be driven on the street anyways.:cheeky:

With triple carbs and a performance cam, I'd say that the fuel mileage is going to suffer. 15-20 sounds about right depending on which rear gear ratio the car has in it.

Just as a start, check the timing as it may be advanced just a little too much, which could contribute to the high temps. The stumble is probably a jetting issue with the carbs.

VA won't allow you to "sell" a car for a dollar, guess they got tired of not getting their little bit of sales tax, or at least that's the way it used to be. Will, I may be buying a GA car without a title, let's hope that VA will let me get one with just a bill of sale. We can't sell a car without a title, no matter how old it is, it's gotta have a title.

Check with Chloe at MidwestZ, she may have factory manuals. If you watch on Ebay for a user by the username "datsundude", he still sells some of the early manuals, all new. I've heard that there are certain model years of the manual that are getting very hard to come by now, possibly the 72 model year as there are still so many of them on the road. You can still get copies of How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car on Amazon the last I knew. Doesn't show much as far as mechanical, but might help with body disassembly.

Sounds like what most of us here would consider a great street car. If the suspension is one you can live with on the street, the rest is just icing on the cake. MSD's can be a pain trying to get the tach to work, but, I've seen it done. Try hooking it up like you would on a stock ignition and see if it works. The guy who built the ITS car I have was told the tach wouldn't work with the MSD, yet he hooked it up and it worked fine until he swapped out the tach for a better one. As far as the exhaust, it's gonna be a trial and error to find a muffler you're satisfied with. It just depends on how much you want to hear. You could try one of the "Turbo" style mufflers such as what MSA sells in the kit.

No, but they let the marketing department have free reign with what went into the car to keep up with the market. Such as the navigation system in a "Track" model. If you are going to call it a Track model, it should have only the "go-fast" goodies, without all the "fluff". Heated seats, mirrors, nav system etc, should be on the Touring model and maybe optional on the Enthusiast. Kinda like what Chevrolet did with the Z06 model, only what it needed for it to be the best that it can be. You've got one model that has all the "high tech" they can offer, and one that is made for the true enthusiasts and racers. Now, if it looked more some of the early concept drawings, we all would like it a lot better.

You'll find most people here don't like the 350 because it's so complicated (like all new cars) that they can't work on it themselves. Too many electronic "gizmo's", traction control etc... most of us feel that traction control is the drivers right foot. The 240 was and always will be a simple design that just happened to work better than nearly everything else on the market at the time, while the 350 is trying to keep up with the market in technology. Even the body design doesn't evoke any memories of the early cars either.

So Lachlan, tell us how you really feel.... ROFL

Welcome... If you have a question, use our Search Box first, for the simple reason, if it's gone wrong with an early car it's probably been asked and answered. If not, we're always ready for a new one that leaves us banging our heads on the keyboard.....

What she cropped out of the pic is the Pit Bull she was playing "tug-o-war" with...

The end of the rocker panel goes behind the "dog leg", therefore no access to the spot welds. Unless you plan on doing the dog leg at the same time, you'll have to cut the rocker and weld it at the dog leg seam. Beware, if the rocker is rusted to the point you need to replace it, chances are there is more rust behind the dog leg. If that continues to rust, it will end up rusting through the inner wheel housing, and then you are faced with replacing yet another body panel. And the inner fender is not an easy one to replace.

Like Rob said, put the car out in the sun for an hour or so, with the bra laying on the car as it is in your pic. It will stretch out a bit after it heats up. I have the same problem with the bumper cover (bra) on my Ram, the first time I put it on, it's nearly impossible to put on, once it warms up and you get it on, after that it's pretty easy till you don't use it for a while again. Never put a bra on a dirty car, the dirt and grit on the paint will mess up a paint job in no time. Never leave the bra on if the car gets wet, take the bra off and let it dry, off the car. Never let the bra flap in the wind either, if it doesn't fit tighly across the hood, and loosens up too much, just the bra itself vibrating up and down in the wind will leave marks in the paint. Even if the car is spotless. Don't ask how I know this....:disappoin

Lee, that looks like the ones that came in the 260's if I'm not mistaken. Looks like the one that I took out of my 75 280 many years ago. I think that it may have been the standard radio in the 74-78 cars.

I believe they were dealer installed options, just like the A/C units were that were installed in the 240's. As far as picking up the chrome, it might not be a bad idea, but, you might end up stuck with them as the number of cars that still are on the road that have the vinyl top are amost as rare as dinosaurs...:cross-eye There have been a couple 240's advertised on Ebay that had the vinyl top, but they are few and far between.

You will have to cut the strut housing in order to fit the cartridges you get. Here's a Tech Article that should answer nearly all your questions. In the middle of the article it explains shortening the housing. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1200

If it is truly as rust free as he claims, anyone in the "rust belt" would gladly give 1K for it, possibly a fair bit more.

Strut cartridge, insert and shock are different terms for the same thing. They are installed into the strut housing which is what the lower spring perch is welded to.

Sounds like the master cylinder seals are slowly giving up the fight..... The black you see in the reservoir is probably from the seals. Of course, it could also be a problem in either the clutch disc or pressure plate itself. I'd change the master first since it's the simplest to change and bleed the system to flush out all the contaminated fluid. If it still has the problem, the only thing other than the clutch itself is the slave cylinder.

I bet someone got a "goose egg" after the delivery too.... or did you hide all the brooms and other weapons when the "Big Brown Truck" drove up???

Control arms can go on either side, it doesn't matter as long as the bushing is installed correctly. As for the T/C rod not lining up, did you have it torqued in place or was it loose in its mount? The control arm shouldn't be at an angle forward or backwards, it should be straight, or at least look that way to the eye. Easiest way to install the T/C rod is to install it into the mount, and only put the mounting nut on far enough to keep it from falling back off, then bolt it up to the control arm, and when you torque the T/C rod mounting nut into place it will locate the control arm on its own.

And they say never blow your horn at a moose, as it tends to annoy them and then they will charge.....:dead: :surprised