2ManyZs

Ya know Steve, I was looking at those Inertia Advantage wheels that Bassett has. They'd make a good wheel on a race car don't ya think? Only 20lbs for a 15x10 and they are cheap compared to an alloy wheel...... Let's see, Z32 brakes and hubs on the bottom of a 280 strut..... What's the bolt circle on the 5 lug Z32's anyways? Might have to do some work to get them to a 5x5 lug pattern:ermm:

People have been using locked or welded rears (usually welded as it's dirt cheap) in road racing for years, and many continue to do so. I ran one for 4 years because I didn't have the budget for an LSD at the time, and the car is still racing with the same rear today. They are not good in the wet, but on dry pavement, you can tune the suspension to compensate, although, it's a lot easier if you have adjustable coil-overs. Softer bar in front, or a stiffer bar in the rear can compensate for the push somewhat, but changing the spring rates will do as much if not more to compensate. Usually softer in the front and stiffer in the rear. Since most people can't do these adjustments on a street car, you will be better off with an open diff until you can purchase either an LSD or a Quaiffe unit. If I were you Gav, I'd see if I could find a used open diff and just swap the ring and pinion.

Adding an oil cooler isn't going to cure an overheating problem, you'll first need to address what is causing it to overheat in the first place. You've got a good start on it, but, you should check the water pump belt, water pump itself, and then the radiator before you spend money on something that will not help your problem. Also, make sure your radiator cap is working properly. Having someone do a pressure test of the radiator would also be a good idea. A good flush of the entire cooling system could be all that's needed, and you ought to consider doing this first as it will be the least expensive item that could make a major difference. Timing that is too far advanced can also lead to running hot as well.

I think there is a thread in the Tech Articles on how to swap for a 280 or ZX internally regulated alternator. I think you'll find some posts on the GM alternator swap over on www.hybridz.org If I remember right, I read some posts over there that weren't to happy with the GM conversion though.....

For the money they are hard to beat... Yes, they are a bit heavy, but, so are the older mag wheels compared to whats on the market today. Wonder if you could use a trim ring like what was on the Chevy Ralley wheels to dress them up, and powder coat the center a nice dark color to offset the trim ring or argent like the Ralley wheels.... Might not look too bad if the car is a dark color. For the price of 4 of these, you'd only get one Panasport in 15x7....:disappoin Make a good investment, if someday you have some money to throw out for a set of Pana's or Watanabe's, you could always sell these to a racer or auto-Xer.... A set of 15x10's would be nice if I ever get to do anything with my second car.....:devious:

Bottom... and yes, without the whale tail. Put a smaller spoiler on the bottom one, and perhaps shave the side marker (if it's legal where you live) and that would be just right.... Shame the 3 piece rear spoiler is so hard to find nowadays, I always liked that one...:disappoin Wonder why it's NLA?

I don't know exactly what the larger (44mm and up) Mikuni's will flow, but seems to me they should flow almost as much if not more than the SU. But, like was previously stated, the intake manifold would have to be well engineered to distribute evenly to all three cylinders, or you would end up with lean cylinders such as the problems associated with the 4 barrel swap seems to have. Might be an interesting mod, but the R&D on the intake might be a bit excessive, you might end up having to fab an intake out of sheetmetal and do a lot of dyno and flow testing.

Once I got the timing down, I got anywhere from 69.4 feet to a high of 326 on a "ground bird"...... Darn cat bowling is tough... got 3 strikes in my second game and still didn't break 100.... :devious: Hmm, wonder if Chloe is gonna play the cat game.... :cheeky:

A man from Texas, driving a Volkswagen Beetle, pulls up next to a guy in a Rolls Royce at a stop sign. Their windows are open and he yells at the guy in the Rolls, "Hey, you got a telephone in that Rolls?" The guy in the Rolls says, "Yes, of course I do." "I got one too... see?" the Texan says. "Uh, huh, yes, that's very nice." "You got a fax machine?" asks the Texan. "Why, actually, yes, I do." "I do too! See? It's right here!" brags the Texan. The light is just about to turn green and the guy in the Volkswagen says, "So, do you have a double bed in back there?" The guy in the Rolls replies, "NO! Do you?" "Yep, got my double bed right in back here," the Texan replies. The light turns and the man in the Volkswagen takes off. Well, the guy in the Rolls is not about to be one-upped, so he immediately goes to a customizing shop and orders them to put a double bed in back of his car. About two weeks later, the job is finally done. He picks up his car and drives all over town looking for the Volkswagen beetle with the Texas plates. Finally, he finds it parked alongside the road, so he pulls his Rolls up next to it. The windows on the Volkswagen are all fogged up and he feels somewhat awkward about it, but he gets out of his newly modified Rolls and taps on the foggy window of the Volkswagen. The man in the Volkswagen finally opens the window a crack and peeks out. The guy with the Rolls says, "Hey, remember me?" "Yeah, yeah, I remember you," replies the Texan, "What's up?" "Check this out... I got a double bed installed in my Rolls." The Texan exclaims, "YOU GOT ME OUT OF THE SHOWER TO TELL ME THAT?"

3. late 71 production, with many of the cars being titled as 72. 4. Rust, but previous owners would be a close second.... :cross-eye

Nice, but a bit overdone IMO..... take the blower off and put a hood on it and it would be a lot more interesting....

Could be a lot of things....:cross-eye I'd check the distributor first, check the mechanical advance plates to see if they move freely, or if any of the little "bearings" are not where they ought to be. Check all the vacuum lines, can check to see if the vacuum advance on the distributor is working. Check the rubber boots between the air cleaner and AFM as well as the boot from the AFM to the throttle body. But, before you do all this, I'd check the timing and the condition of the cap/rotor first. You might also want to check the plugs and plug wires as well. I'm thinking it may be a timing/advance problem but you never know..... If none of the above work, let us know and we'll come up with some of the less obvious things that could cause these symptoms....

As far as the inner fender area under the battery tray, you have only two choices. It's either gonna be fabricate one, or take one from a donor car. No one has ever offered a repair panel for this area either now or in the past.

If you block off the vacuum to the master vac, you'll need both feet on the brake pedal to stop. I mistakenly installed the check valve in backwards once... scared the you know what out of me when I came to the first stop sign.:cross-eye You can't just block off the vacuum and expect the brakes to work correctly, you'd need to use a totally different master cylinder designed for manual brakes, such as the Tilton master cylinders you see on race cars. Cost a bit to convert it, but, it's the only way to do it correctly. You need a master that will supply the proper line pressure to the brakes, the stock master only works due to the input of the master vac.

The best advice is to buy the car that has the least amount of rust. That's the biggest downfall in a project type of car, getting into the project and finding hidden rust issues that end up costing you time and piles of money to repair. If you aren't afraid of working on the car to personalize it to your tastes, buy the car that has the least amount of rust issues no matter what the price is. You'll be glad you did.

After watching a couple episodes of American Hot Rod, I now know one person I'd never work for... Coddington... geez, what a jerk. A guy I know used to work for him many years ago, now I know why he quit and came back home to VA. I don't know the whole story, but Boyd took all the credit for ZZTop's Cadzilla, which, according to what I've heard, he had very little if anything to do with the body design or hand crafting of the body on the car. I talked to the drivers who were pulling the car around the country and stopping at truck stops for small shows and they all remembered Craig (the guy who lives here) and told me to tell him that they were telling everyone who asked who the "real" person was that designed and built the body of the car. Boyd reminds me of a guy I worked for once for a very short time.. liked to remind people that he was the "king" and everyone else was easily replaceable.

The 67's are probably the only Vette I would consider owning if I had the money..... According to this listing on Pro-Teams web-site, most of the 67's are going for around 100K or less... this car either had something very special, or perhaps it was a misspring in the auction listing. The only reason I could think that would make it worth that much is if it were a GM show car or prototype. http://www.proteam-corvette.com/1967.html

Chloe is one of the few that still has them... the supply of them is drying up quickly....:disappoin Dtsnlvrs saw mine and wanted one, and luckily Chloe put on up on Ebay not long ago and he snapped it up quickly.

Geez James, you surprised me... you almost look "normal".... for a old Kiwi..... Is it just me, or does Lachlan's pic look to be taken just before he gobbled that "big fish"???? Hmm, wonder how it tasted.....:cross-eye We are still missing a few others besides the ones Carl mentioned.. such as EricB, St. Stephen, Zlishous (?), and a few others I can't think of right off hand.....

Hehe, yeah, they are trying to take over everything in the DC area.... like a couple others.....if it's not Koons, it's Sheehy..... His name was Chris Beisler, he quit and started his own chimmey cleaning business. Said he was tired of working for someone else all the time. Last I talked to him he was doing pretty good with it. He used to be the crew chief and "parts getter" for the guy that built the IT car I've got in my shop.

Yup, the wiring should be tucked up around the frame rail that runs crosswise in front of the fuel tank. Up near the wiring for the fuel sending unit. I'd be willing to bet is the module.... if it acts like the later ones do that are inside the dizzy, they will burn out on one side(or circuit) and run off the other, then, due to the increased demand, they overheat and cut out altogther, then, when they cool, it runs fine....

Only thing wrong with them in my mind is the front wheel drive... otherwise I would have had a Sentra SER a long time ago.... BTW, what's with Sheehy? Did they buy out Annapolis Nissan? Dang, that place changes hands enough.... Good friend of mine was the Parts Manager there back in the Tate and early Annapolis Nissan days.....wish he was still there too....:disappoin

If you use the search function on the Main Page with the keywords "floor pans", I'd be willing to bet you'll end up with 100+ threads on this subject... when you're done reading all that, you should have a pretty good idea what you are in for...:cross-eye